Yeah, this is my version, based on Karls, who also has an 85 Firebird, also the same color. Kinda freaky huh?

We join the story in the middle, or late beginning. The 2.8 already has the wiring harness off & marked. The heads were ttaken off in an attempt just to swap out a blown head gasket. Later it would be learned that the block is cracked. The water pump was removed justs because. Engine mount bolts loosened, but still in. Still haven't removevd bellhousing bolts (gee, what fun), or flywheel/flexplate bolts. The exhaust has ben totally removed & thrown out. Except the stock T-pipe in case the 3.4 pipe doesn't fit. Dynomax cat-back awaits, & a Catco convertor came w/the 3.4 . The intake manifolds came off a whole lot easier than the 2.8s. The valve covers were a pain, but slow & steady so not to warp them. I will be using the 2.8 vavle covers, as they look better to me (silver vs. black & grimy). I might have to clean up the drivers side though, as I like the oil fill extension from the 3.4 . Those newer injectors look funky compaired to the 2.8, but oh well . There are a lot more engine sensors on the 3.4 vs 2.8 , and some of the same sensors are in different places. The 1-wire fan switch that Karl had to have the plug torched to be removed is located on the pass side, by the starter. I will use this, & not worry about the plug in the head. The coolant fan temp switch, the 2 wire hook up in the front of the manifold on the 2.8 is in the front of the driver head on the 3.4, opposite of the plug. unforntunately this cannot be russed, as the 3.4 uses 1 wire to thi, & the connectors are different than ours.I removed the 3.4 motor mount supports. Pretty easy. Then removed the A/C compressor, & realligned the belt for non-A/C routing. The bracket where the compressor used to be just begs for a suppercharger. But the sc will cost a lot more than my
free turbo. I will take some pics of the engine tomarrow. The 2.8 intake is being test fitted w/out the fuel rail, w/the 2.8 v covers. The serp belt setup will be very prominant, also lending a nod to underdrive pullies in the future (no comments from th peanut gallery please ).

That's it for now, will be installing amp & speakers in the bonnie tomarrow, & finding a place to hot tank the intake plenums so I can paint'em.

edit: the 3.4 oil filter housing is Wack!!! I will deffinately be reusing the 2.8 one.

 

WAY EXCELLENT!
I ordered my 1995 Camaro 3.4 yesterday.
50K, $900, including tax and delivery.
And he delivers my other 700R4 good tranny I got.
I'm just downgrading my 3.4 to 1985 Blazer specs (carb/intake/distb).
I only need pass smog later on, then I'll reinstall the 3.4 intake FI stuff.
That intake will look so bitchin under the Blazer hood.

BOOGIE ON :rockon: TO YOUR OWN BEAT!
IT'S FUN!

 

I was wondering , what do you guys Karl , Project , Dan and whoever else is doing this swap . What do you do with the distributor ? B/c aren't 93-95 3.4 distributorless ignitions ? Is there and areau in the same place for a distributor but its just plugged on the 3.4 or how does this work guys ? ...Just curious .

 

Wayne,
You've had your distributor in your hands, right?
And you have removed it also....
In teh 3.4 blocks, that hole still exists.
All one does is remove a hold down, remove the lower half of a distributor.
One still needs to run oil pump off the cam shaft.
I discovered that detail, too.

 

O , so its just plugged ?

 

U got that right, "Red Rider"!
It's that simple!
UNLIKE the MECHANICAL fuel pump hole on an early 2.8 block.
GM cast it over, IT'S GONE!
For my 1995 3.4 in a my Blazer, I need mount an electric fuel pump.
Just another detail.
I hated that messy leaky fuel pump design of my 85 2.8 engine.
Happy to see it go!
MORE ENGINE BAY ROOM

 

Red Rider ? lol ..heh .....I wish one of you guys would take some pics of this swap . Id just like to watch it /help . Help if I was there .

Can one swap a 305-350 ? B/c when I get out of school(college) in a few years or so I would love to find me another Camaro and do a 305-350 swap boogie !

 

Wayne, this V-6 to V-6 is the easisst way out of a worn engine in a good chassis.
If ya wanna slip in a V-8, it's more difficult.
I was ofered afreee 305 to slip into my Firebird.
I have no compalints.
I can slip a V-8 into my Blazer.
I'll be very pleased with the 3.4 swap.
Fidna V-8 car to go forward from.
Make it a loaded Z-28 or IROC or the 1982 Indy Pace Car edition of the Camaro.
Those are guaranteed sure success investments.

 

Yeah , thats what I was talking about finding a V8 car like a rs 305 or an old IROC 305 and swiping a 350 in it ....the 305-350 swap boogie

 

Well guys once I get some extra cash I am droping in a 3.4. Ported 2.8 intake and 3.4 heads, ported TB, crane or powermax cam, a fresh ignition but nothing fancy, torque converter, high flow y-pipe and a rebuilt tranny (it has 135k miles). It will be cheap because I know two speed shop owners . I am also going to buy a flowmaster muffler here soon since the catt is allready gutted and I have a lot of weight reduction and will have a fiberglass hood soon.
Also right now I run the 0-60mph in 8 seconds on the 2.8 and I still have a few problems to fix. I hope to run a high 16 on the 2.8 and a low 15 on the 3.4, that may be a bit optimistic but you have to have at least one goal in life

Mods so far, gutted catt converter, air lid, and air boxes, cleaned out TB, accel super coil, autolite plugs, new wires, blue streak cap and rotor, aluminum wheels, A/C delete, smog delete, rear seat delete, no power options at all, no GFX

That moded 3.4 will be so nice. Can you bore a 3.4 to a 3.8 (and run 3.8 pistons) or to anything bigger or are the cylinders at a max bore with the 3.4?
Also are the 3.4 heads aluminum or cast iron?
David

 

For those who are doing this swap & don't have the cold start valve, you should be able to re-use the 3.4 lower plenum. The main problem w/the 3.4 upper plenum is that the rear air crossover will not clear the distributor. If you modify this, you should be able to use it. The EGR hookup is in a different spot, but may be able to be worked with. i might be able to hook up w/co-worker @ AZ for a cherry picker. My neighbor moved & now I have the whole garage to myself :lala: :lala: :lala:
I'm also going to breakdown abd change the tranny fluid & install a shift improver kit while down there.

And that amp/speaker/cd changer install took only 11 hrs, but the results are sweeeet

 

FOR ANYONE DOING THINGKING THIS
Go spend the measly $6 at ANY GM DEALER & OBTAIN THE GM PERFORMANCE PARTS BOOK
Read about the 3.4 in the 60* section.
It has EVERY answer ya need to know.
HONEST!
It's only $6!

 

networking pays off, & I will have use of the engine hoist. The gmpp catalog has too many fwd stuff in it

 

NETWORKING IS FOR THE SPECIAL DETAIL QUESTIONS.
I ONLY REFER ONE TO THE PERF PARTS BOOK TO CLEARLY SEE PICS & DISCOVER SPECS AND WHAT IS/IS NOT AVAILABLE/OFFERED FOR THE 60*.
The GM Perf book doesn't have those special tech tips as a old 1995 edition of the GM Power Book I have.
GM dealers sell that too.
But, here, we find out that info for free.
I use my old mags for refernce pics/articles/tech tips.
I have a 12 years supply of stuff for the firebird & my S-10 Blazer.
I'm hoping to be installing the 3.4 intake system on my 1985 S-10 Blazer. First I get past smog of end of this year.
I have a tech article how to install a MPFI unit on the carb'd S-10 2.8. Includes wiring diagram and parts to seek in yards (1990 article)
That mag S-10 2.8 gained 20HP at Rear wheels with the MPFI conversion-Better milage, too!
AND OF COURSE FASTER!
Turbo City in Anaheim wrote article.
They on Katella Ave, down there.
They know lots of tricks!

 

Pulled the 2.8 out, test fit the 3.4. Removed all the bel housing bolts. Not hard, just time consuming. Removed the 3 bolts from torque convertor. There will be some mods to be made to make this work:

1. In order to keep the fan switch on the pass side block & not the head, I will have to mod the engine mount bracket. The 3.4 are considerably longer than ours.

2. Make sure everything on the oilpan that doesn't need to be there is off, it will interfere.

3. When working by oneself @3 in the morning, make sure the tranny cooling lines are not connected to the block before raising said block .

I removed the hood Karl style, quit easy in fact.The old oil filter bracket was swaperd to the 3.4. It's going to suck trying to get the tranny the align w/the new engine. 2.8 alt will have to be used, don't feel like messing w/the different connectors between the two. Power steering pump should be fine, just transfer hose(s).

More later when comes back to me.

 

pics !

 

pics: still have 4-6 frames left on roll, will be gone soon though.

 

I am confused about the line....

In order to keep the fan switch on the pass side block & not the head, I will have to mod the engine mount bracket. The 3.4 are considerably longer than ours.

In my 3.4, I am removing the passenger side cylinder head back oil galley block plug, to reinstall the 2.8 cylinder head cooling sensor (even used on my 1985 S-10 Blazer).

My tool for this is arriving on Tuesday & I pay $12.

I do HOPE I need not have a welder visit ($$$) with his propane tanks to heat that plug for removal, as it was done last time on the 3.4 swap into my Firebird.

3.4 heads on the 3.4 block are identical in length & style & bolt on stuff as the 1985 MPFI 2.8 engine & even my older 2.8 S-10 carb'd heads.
everything in swaps, swapped over easy, as unbolt, bolt, unbolt, bolt on other older brackets.

You're doing a variation?
COOL!

 

variation, yes. Thus the Version 2.0

The motor mounts on the 4th gen 3.4s, whaere the bolt goes through for the motor mounts are extended. Where the bracket bolts to the block is different between the 2.8 & the 3.4. Because of the fan switch, the 3.4 is longer to clear this, the 2.8 bracket will not seat unless I :
a) do what carl is doing w/the the plug in the back of the head
b) modify (grind) the 2.8 bracket to clear the switch.

Pics of these will let me burn of some more w/the camera

 

My 85 2.8 BLOCK motor mounts worked PERFECT on the 1995 3.4 in the Firebird.
On my 1995 3.4 I got for the Blazer, I will reuse the 1985 2.8 MOTOR BLOCK mounts, too.
They'll fit perfect.
I unbolt, match side, rebolt up.
Check yours again, something isn't right.
I unbolted the 3.4 ones & just reused the 85 2.8 ones.
That item on the block is the ANTI-KNOCK SENSOR.
If you remove it, it is a blind end plug hole
Coolant sensors are in the cylinder heads.
That's why I MUST remove that oil galley plug in the passenger side, rear, cylinder head.
So will you, too.
It's the right way to do this swap, keep it simple & 1985 factory designed, then all works real well.

 

ka-nock sensor, those bastages , then no bracket problems, & what tool are you useing for that plug? I might have a bit that fits, though.

 

That plug is called
OIL GALLEY IN BLOCK PLUG.
In this instance (plug in pass side head, REAR) it blocks the coolant from leaking out.
It is sized 5/16" SQUARE FEMALE HOLE.
I am obtaing an oil galley plug remover today.
It fits on the end of a 3/8" ratchet, off/out it comes (how I pray to G0d on that detail)
WHY I HEATED IT & WHY I HOPE I NEED NOT THIS TIME.
It is "RUSTED" in there. Blocks water.
I found 5/16" "KEY" (hardware store), to fit in that hole as former friend heated it, out it came.
THAT PLUG MUST BE REMOVED.
AT THIS POINT, spend ALL your time, removing that plug NOW,
Rest of the 2.8->3.4 long block swap boogie is ALL down hill from that plug removal.
Yep, that's a knock sensor.
I was wondering what you may be referring to.
Large, about size of Dollar coin, right?
Yes, the old original (your engine bay) 2.8's fit perfect.
You did mark what side mount is what, correct?

 

Well, the ground down extension didn't work (amusing, but ) , bolt extractor didn't work either so I'm going to jb weld the hole shut & use aftermarket fan switch, problem solved. Am also suffering the "Drop engine in car all by my lonesome @ 2 in the morning" blues. Remember many moons ago I wanted to re-route the tranny lines to clear the planned turbo exhaust routing? Well, I'll be doing that a lot sooner

 

I've been busy with my swap, also.
Found out my motor mounts I got with my 3.4 (ON THE FRAME OF THE 1995 CAMARO) are gonna work on my S-10 Blazer (need to replace old 1985 2.8 ones from the frame).
Got rebuilt tranny ($500, oh well-hoping less, but, guaranteed to work right & I will sell my other bad 700R4 for some spare change)
Got tranny mount
Got prices for parts for sources, gonna sit down with cup of coffee and do more searcing of stuff.
Been long period between past and now.
Home plumbing work (minus water for one night!)
Pool motor work
Wife having Mommy girlfriends & kids at home (I Skipped out, my Wife is the only Babe!).
Swaps are not easy projects BUT so rewarding!
Drove around all day yesterday in my 85 Firebird with my swapped in 3.4!
Needs a cap & rotor change, I can feel it.
Never did that on the original swap (2-01), it worked fine, then.

 

Glad to hear the swap's going alright! Here's how we removed that coolant passage plug when I did my buddy's 2.8/2.8 swap ( http://www.geocities.com/tomp_3rdgen ). A bolt was ground down to fit into the plug- but if we were at my house, I would have cut the bolt to be SHORT, and used a metal file to file it down exactly into a square. So the hole stripped out with the ground down bolt, and then we damaged the hell out of the plug (Tried using a chisel to get it to spin. Tried using a file to put a slot in it, and use a screwdriver.) So I went home, got the MIG welder, brought it over, and...

 

BITCHIN!!!

 

An actual update!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got the new tranny lines bent & hooked up to the radiator. I have them bent roughly the same as factory upto the front end of the k-mbr, then I have them bend to follow the mbr up towards strut towers & then bend towards the radiator. This clears up those ugly lines when you look down @ the cross link& idler arms.

I did this evening in 1 1/2 hrs what I've been trying to do the last 5 nights I've worked on the car: get the damn engine to seat on the motor mounts . Now just hook up the tranny, change fluid/filter, hook up tranny end of coolant lines. As I posted in another thread, I reused the 2.8 timing teeth so I can time the thing, or at least get it close. The upper, middle, & lower manifolds are painted, ut I still need to get a good pic/see it in front of me the wiring of what everything should look like when done.

Cresting the top & starting downhill :lala:


edit: finished the role of film, will see if I can size them correctly this time around, or if one of the moderators will come to my rescue

also will be using a 685K6 belt, the 690K6 is just a tad too loose

 

I just paid $25 for a DYNAGEAR set.
Gears and chain.
PLEASE got get the Gears.
Hell I'd buy them for ya and ship them to ya just so a through job is done on the 3.4 engine swap.
ONE SUGGESTION!
Discovered this recently & have to correct it on the 3.4 Firebird, too.
The 3.4 balancers.
Go get a Pioneer balancer sleeve.
I paid like $4 for it.
Those balancers get a grove and leak upon reuse. As is my Firebird balancer, already. even tho new oil seal down there.
$4 cheap upgrade.
SO is the complete timing chain gear set.
I'm gonna install the new U-joints and balancer sleeve on Sunday for my Blazer 3.4 swap.
Tomorrow I chisle off the lower timing chain gear.
Here's how.
I was told get a real shape metal chisle, not a toy.
BIG hammer.
Pound at the key area on the lower gear.
Crack.
Crank can take "some" abuse.
Usually the gear gives way quicker with the right shape Chisle.
I'll let ya know part numbers if ya like.
Give a shout.

 

Yeah, we got the 4pc set @ AZ, two gears, chain & dampner. better get it before my last day @ AZ. work on base is kicking my a$$ . That remindds me, check & test fit the 3.4 Y-pipe. You said it fits, just want to see how far off it is to the cat conv hanger.

 

IT WILL FIT,
with some cutting and bending.
IT'S A PERFECT FOUNDATION!

 

You will be so impressed with the 3.4. Theres so much more potential and still low insurance and high mpg. Everytime someone asks is my cars an 8, I say nah is just a new sixer, and everytime one of my friends who rides in my car is ya but its quick as hell for a v6. And crusing 75 I could goto 85 so easily in 5th gear. So far Karl I've had no bad luck with the trasmission. It hasn't blown out yet and it has 171k on it. Prety impressive I must think. I have two times I have to goto Dallas this summer, that takes about 3 and a half hours and then I have to goto springfield missouri and thats like a 6 hour drive. We'll see how much of a trooper the car is after those trips. I got my clutch fixed too. Really smooth and everything. Isn't the cam in the 3.4 pretty agressive and theres really no need for an afermarket cam? Correct?
Thanx

 

Josh,
You have answered your own question.
This cam is the upgrade from Crane for the 2.8/3.1
You are really fortunate to have a stick with your ride.
Car should be a real trooper. Check battery water level if you can.
Mine has been and is showing a few weaknesses (the electrical and the cooling/AC recently solved).
BUT
I get new interior now and next is shocks and last few body panels (nose & rear & front driver fender). Last is exhaust system.
I think Jennifer will hold up well, again.

So good to hear your results have paid off so well!
It's those little details in the beginning, that make the end results so easy to problem solve. And the ride so much more enjoyable!

Yeah, I get those 8 cylinder comments too!

Be spirited with the tranny, that's all I can say!
Fresh fluid in there?
Using a synthethic?

 

685K6

It's nice & tight. Took a hammer to put this sucker on.
For those of you who have done the 3.4 boogie, did you :
a) use the 3.4 accessories
b) if so did you use the a/c compressor?

my routing starting from crank going clockwise:
crank, tensioner, alt, water pump, p/s pump.

 

I used all my 2.8 accessories, I think. Cuz you still have your 2.8 computer and heater cores and such and you want the same connections. I could be wrong but ask Karl he knows it better than I. Karl should I use synthetic in the tranny? I havent checked i yet.
Thanx

 

YES on the fluid in the synthetic stuff in tranny.
Get the latest issue of HOT ROD (the one with the 1989 White FIREBIRD DOING A WHEELIE).
An article offers what weights & effects on parts.
I'm gonna put it in my auto tranny upon fresh fluid change.
And rear of the Firebird & my Blazer (new swapped in) rear, too.


I used all 2.8 brackets on teh 3.4 mill.
WHY?
It fits.
Perfectly.
Everything swaps on, it was & is a simple decision.
Why not the 4th gen stuff?
THAT 4th gen engine bay is DIFFERENT & the engine sits LOWER.
Notice the upper intake of the 3.4.
It's lower than the 2.8/3.1 design.
Notice the angle of the air inlet.
It's pointed downward for a reason.
In my Blazer 3.4 swap, I am using the 2.8 brackets, too. Everything will fit. Everything will match up.
Everything will line up. Everything will work correctly. FOR ME it was a "why reinvent the wheel" situation.
YES, those 3.4 ones look real nice, especially bead blasted clean!

Yesterday I cracked off the lower timing gear, in 2 minutes! NO EFFORT!
Used that new sharp metal chisel, right where was told at the key area on the gear.
5 wacks with a 5 pound mallet.
DONE!
New one goes on with sleeve made from tubing at Home Depot and heat!
Then I use a block of STRAIGHT wood or metal ruler, to make sure alignment of upper & lower gear is perfectly flat, nothing less.

 

That is one sweet Hot rod Mag with the 89 formula that runs like 10's. I came down to San Diego and LA last week Karl and read that on the plane. I think the tranny and rear need a oil change soon so I might even do that today on the good ol 4th. Ya Karl I still wish you could use the 3.4 intake. It looked like it flowed so much better.

 

the 3.4 runners are shorter than ours, more condusive to high end power. the main problem I saw w/the 3.4 intake( having not really looked at it since I took it off) was the positioning for the tv cable, or lack of one.

 

Yeah, it is those details that makes one "smart" to put it aside for future use.
My latest 3.4 intake set up came complete with everything.
I believe it'll fit like a glove, under a hood it was never designed for, my 85 Blazer.
Hook ups is another matter.
For right away, I'm reusing the carb intake set up.
No choice as I have CA emissions testing end of this year.
I can problem solve after I get the truck up & running (swapping on the 3.4 intake set up).
Drive shaft u-joints and balancer duty today (new sleeve on balancer to prevent future leaks at that gasket). Next is clean outside grease & such on block/heads for painting Chevy Orange.

 

the pic w/the belt is before I finallized the belt size.

the one in the engine bay is when I crushed the tranny coolant lines.

 

Won't alternator height & hood profile be an issue?
Especially in our Firebirds?
LOOKS TIDY!!

 

alt height not an issue. still sits low in car. lower than the strut cover boot which I melted w/the 500watt work light

Itoo some pics of the new rtanny coolant lines, but they didn't come out , when I finally get paid my reenlistment bonus I'm getting the digicam out of lay-a-way so pic waiting time will be to a minimum.

 

Got the 4 big tranny bolts back in, & the upper tranny coolant line hooked up. Just gotta get the lower one in. what a PITA . The tires I got w/the new wheels have slow leaks in them, so I'm thinking 235/60R15. I beleive that's stock width for the 15" rims. Once the tranny is fully hooked up, torque convertor bolts w/thread locker & dust sheild, I'll put the hood back on & work on the intake manifolds & wiring.

edit: power steering lines hook right up, just need new return hose cut