Exhaust manifold bolts
05-21-2002, 05:48 AM
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Exhaust manifold bolts
Anyone drill & tap the exhaust manifold bolts for a larger size?
Was wondering how much meat is in the heads for this. The
looks of those dinky bolts it is no wonder they break. I was
thinking a good 3/8" bolt would do the trick.
Thanks,
RBob.
Was wondering how much meat is in the heads for this. The
looks of those dinky bolts it is no wonder they break. I was
thinking a good 3/8" bolt would do the trick.
Thanks,
RBob.
05-21-2002, 08:58 AM
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You've got the wrong idea...
If you use bigger bolts, but use crappy ones, they won't last through the heat/cool cycles just like the little ones...
You've got to use better bolts. Stage 8 bolts work wonders... Expensive, but for a reason.
I've got to get one last bolt drilled out (my mech left the old one in because it's an odd size) and a new one put in near my cat and my exhaust is done...
If you use bigger bolts, but use crappy ones, they won't last through the heat/cool cycles just like the little ones...
You've got to use better bolts. Stage 8 bolts work wonders... Expensive, but for a reason.
I've got to get one last bolt drilled out (my mech left the old one in because it's an odd size) and a new one put in near my cat and my exhaust is done...
05-22-2002, 01:35 PM
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Agreed, a real PITA.
You need to use a 90* angle drill and shorter drill bits to get in there. My shop charged me $250. It would have been cheaper however if someone had not gone in there previously and tried to fix the exhaust leak with hardening epoxy. My mechanic went through an incredible amount of drill bits on my car those 2 days.
You need to use a 90* angle drill and shorter drill bits to get in there. My shop charged me $250. It would have been cheaper however if someone had not gone in there previously and tried to fix the exhaust leak with hardening epoxy. My mechanic went through an incredible amount of drill bits on my car those 2 days.
05-23-2002, 07:04 AM
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Yes, I am to the point that I'll probably tear it down and
remove the head. The two pass side rear most bolts are
broken off recessed in the head.
It is very difficult to get in there with anything. I was hoping
to be able to drill them using the exhaust manifold to guide
the bit. No room.
I even cut a slot in one of the bolts. Used a screwdriver on it
and it won't move! Did the heat, wax, Kroil, nada.
Thinking about why they break I believe it may have to do
with the motor mounts. Once they get old the engine is
moving around too much. Puts a lot of stress on the exhaust
manifold bolts.
I'll be checking the ES ones for the 4-bolt mount. I have a
feeling that they will fit our cars. (and have a car that I can
measure the f-body mount against).
RBob.
remove the head. The two pass side rear most bolts are
broken off recessed in the head.
It is very difficult to get in there with anything. I was hoping
to be able to drill them using the exhaust manifold to guide
the bit. No room.
I even cut a slot in one of the bolts. Used a screwdriver on it
and it won't move! Did the heat, wax, Kroil, nada.
Thinking about why they break I believe it may have to do
with the motor mounts. Once they get old the engine is
moving around too much. Puts a lot of stress on the exhaust
manifold bolts.
I'll be checking the ES ones for the 4-bolt mount. I have a
feeling that they will fit our cars. (and have a car that I can
measure the f-body mount against).
RBob.
04-07-2013, 03:36 PM
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Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI SLP Runners Accel 24lb Inj
Transmission: 700R4 Upgraded Internals, Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 Bolt, 3.27 Ratio
Re: Exhaust manifold bolts
i know this is a really old post but i have a little trick for broken manifold bolts i use all the time:
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
04-09-2013, 08:08 AM
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Car: 92 Camaro rs ( mostly stock for now
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 700r4 with a b&m megashifter.
Axle/Gears: whatever came stock. wanna posi tho
Re: Exhaust manifold bolts
i know this is a really old post but i have a little trick for broken manifold bolts i use all the time:
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
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04-09-2013, 11:09 PM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Manual T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Exhaust manifold bolts
i know this is a really old post but i have a little trick for broken manifold bolts i use all the time:
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
04-09-2013, 11:19 PM
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Exhaust manifold bolts
i know this is a really old post but i have a little trick for broken manifold bolts i use all the time:
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
if the bolt is broken flush with the header/manifold, place an appropriately sized nut over the end of the bolt with manifold removed and weld the nut to it with a regular MIG welder. this will sometimes take a couple tries depending on accessability and your relative skill with a welder. welds will not stick to or harm cast iron or aluminum heads, so if the bolt is broken flush with the head simply weld a lump onto the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to this. the combination of heating from the welder and now having a hex to grab onto will remove even rusted bolts (cross-threading might be a little harder)
like i said i use this trick all the time, hasnt failed me yet and a much better solution than removing the cylinder head
04-12-2013, 05:57 PM
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Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI SLP Runners Accel 24lb Inj
Transmission: 700R4 Upgraded Internals, Shift Kit
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 Bolt, 3.27 Ratio
Re: Exhaust manifold bolts
a flexible welder tip helps a lot. like i said depends on accessibility, if you are working on the passenger rear of the engine near the evaporator good luck to ya but other than that the rest of them are pretty readily accessible with the manifold/header out of the way
but other than that the rest of them are pretty readily accessible with the manifold/header out of the way Last edited by rick90gta; 04-12-2013 at 05:59 PM. Reason: .
04-12-2013, 06:25 PM
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Car: 86-FireBird
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Re: Exhaust manifold bolts
a flexible welder tip helps a lot. like i said depends on accessibility, if you are working on the passenger rear of the engine near the evaporator good luck to ya but other than that the rest of them are pretty readily accessible with the manifold/header out of the way
but other than that the rest of them are pretty readily accessible with the manifold/header out of the waysomeone could make a good penny selling heads of all types for all cars that use a nut n bolt for headers, over studs, no one ever learns
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