ok,i took off the top of the engine and hand cleaned the injectors and intake crap,re sealed the intake and put it all back up and the car runs ****y, do i ahfta mess w/ the timing after all that,and its been sittin for a few months,old gas,when i disconnect my maf sensor it runs a lil better though,it gets a maf code sometimes to.thanx

 

Did you bump that vacumn hose at the back of the manifold out of place or loose ? ...Or did any other vacumn hoses come un-done ?

 

i dont think so,i hooked up all the hoses back how they were.its makin me mad though,lol

 

Have any loose connections with any wires like the wires going to the ignition module . Id even check all my sparkplug wires to make sure there good and tight ..........

To me , it really sounds like a bad MAF sensor , if you unplug it , then it runs good .... www.sunpro.com Go to this sight , then click on the bottem at the garage sale , then click on test and tune . Sunpro has a MAF sensor tester on sale right now for $10 !!!!! The original price was like $60 ....Im not even having any problems right now with my car ( well MAF sensor Im sure Im not having problems , but I ordered one any was sence it was such a good price .

 

ok,thanx,ill do that. but the maf was fine before i took off that crap and cleaned my injectors,could it be my timing, or cause its been sitting so long with the old gas in it?

 

You sure the plug wires are correct on the distb cap?
Timing, doubt it or did you move it?
Alternator can cause poor idle, really!
BAD VACUUM HOSES #1 cause of problems.
Check.
Plastic breaks & it's 5/16" windshield wiper hose for patching.
Plastic hoses not available anymore.
Bad gas, sure.......
Does car move?
Do engine hold idle?

 

the alternators pretty new, when i was doin somethin it sparked once,lol,oops, but it idles a lil better now , i put a lil bit of octane booster in until i can go get a can of gas, i didnt touch the distibutor or anything. the plug wires should be fine,the hoses all seem to be conncted,but im not sure how they shoudl go,i took it to a palce to make ti pass emissions and the guy ghetto rigged and bypassed crap,so i dunno how to make it normal again or i would. it idles rough,but when i get the rpms up its just fine, i drove it and it was ok,when i braked it seemd like the brakes had no pressure. that have anything to do with it? thanx for all the help

 

Two choices...
Vacumm hoses are cracked, misrouted
Brake booster or hose to booster is worn out
How to solve.
two ways.
One free
Go to any GM dealer and ask for your year car engine print out of the PVC hose set up-give the guy a soda or two for his help
Other
Go buy the Chiltons (Time mag sized) and check out the emmision hose routing set up.
Star searching for the proper solution and get looking at the hoses.
MPFI cars require zero vacuum leaks

 

ok,thanx,where can i get that chiltons thing?

 

ok,i just got done screwin w/ it again. it was idling crapy,i took off the vacuum hose going to the egr pump, and it idled good. the idle went to about ten and stayed their,then after it warmed up,ithe idle got higher and higher,i think the egr opened closed some,the brakes still have pressure at first,then when i press it its ok,then the 2nd press it has less pressure,and so on,and once i rev the engine a lil bit the pressure returns,i dunno if that'll help anyone whose tryin to help me,but thanx again.:hail:

 

The diaphram in the EGR is leaking and you are loosing vacuum. Replace you EGR valve (Get a good GM unit from the dealer, Not the crappy aftermarket ones. They work better and last longer.)
This will cause the motor to lope at idle and even stall sometimes.

If you have a vacuum tester, try pulling the smaller hose off of the t-fitting at the rear of the intake plenium (folow the larger brake booster hose towards the engine and you'll see the t-fitting there. With the vacuum tester hooked to the smaller side of the t-fitting and the car running- you should register aprox. 16ins. of vacuum.
Now, if you don't have at least 16ins., turn the car off and check section by section with the tester to make sure no vacuum lines are leaking. If nothing is leaking then I can assure you its a faulty EGR valve.
Good Luck

 

replaced the egr 3 months ago,its not that,but thanx. i found another disconnected vacuum line under the tb. not sue where it goes,but im sure i missed a hookup and got somethin mixed up,i jstu need 2 find out how its all routed.anyone got any ideas?

 

We can't be the fly on your shoulders.
TO HELP YOURSELF BEST, go to almost any auto parts store and find the car manual section.
You should easily be able to score the Chiltons.
This is the BEST help I can offer ya.
ALSO while at parts store, grab along section of 5/16" windshield wiper hose. This is the magic stuff you repair cracked plastic lines with.
IF ya find a crack in plastic line (YOU WILL), lube all ends with spit and slip over the cracked plastic.
IT WORKS PERFECT.


When I did my engine swap in my Fireird, I took a COMPLETE DAY to patch all the vacuum line cracks I could find.
Then about 8 months later on, I searched again. And ended up repairing more!


The hose at base of Distb-driver side, area is 1/2" hose & VERY DIFFICULT to insert.
You end up removing the intake set up, partially.
Easy only 12 point 10mm socket & dry gaskets that don't tend to break.

Get the hose, patience, the book or print out and get going.
IT'll be a bit of your day.
BUT SO REWARDING.
These MPFI cars require nothing less than 100% ZERO vacuum leaks.

 

If your vacuum hoses are good, then I would think it's the 'old gas'. Old gas can cause this problem.

 

If your vacuum hoses are good, then I would think it's the 'old gas'. Old gas can cause this problem.

 

Yeah; my car sat for a month when I totalled it, after I fixed the car, I tried to start it- and it wouldn't start. I had visions of a screwed up wiring harness or blown computer... and then my dad suggested we get some new gas. It started right up after a few gas cans worth of 94 octane! (And you should've seen the big black cloud of smoke that settled over my development! I was expecting fire trucks to come! )

How did you hand-clean the injectors? How did you re-seal the intake?

And even though you say the MAF was fine before you were working on it, you are getting a MAF code, so something's wrong with the MAF system. Like Wayne said, check for loose wires. Also, click on search (upper right of this screen), and search the V6 forum for "MAF visual inspection". Do another search for "code 34" on the "V6" forum, and you should find the diagnostic chart I wrote up.

 

thanx,the maf's fine now. found some jacked up vacuum hoses,some guy ghetto rigged my vacuum system cuz it had low pressure,n now that its got good pressure its suckin to much on the egr tube and thats y its idling crapy. and the brakes thing is pissin me off,i seald it with new gasekt and sealant, the injectors,i soaked em in cleaner,used a toohbrush to get any crap offa em 2.i just hafta figure out how to run the hoses,thanx guys

 

It's too hot there today.
Go indoors
Grab a brew
locate the shop manual.
MANY times those books are opened..
Check the diagram there & draw a pic of the hoses.
The book is like $15?

 

thank you all for the help,i was out their screwin w/ ol bessy and hooked up all the hoses the way i thougt itd work and it actually did. weird **** huh. its runnin hella better,so im happy, brakes are good now to. still leakin some oil from the valve cover,but im not worried about that,im buildin a new 2.8 to put in so its dependable so i can build up somethin,but now i get to paint it,agian,lol,ill post a pic of her with her black flames,thanx for all the help guys

 

Funny how a stupid piece of rubber and plastic can ruin a perfectly good car!

 

ok,this is gay,lol,she was runnin fine,i went back out to do somethin n it was runnin ok then i t started it agian,it hasta be a loose hose,and its pissin me off like no other damnit. i checked em all.where can i get good hose that will stand up to the heat?im jsut gonna re do all of the hoses

 

IF you re-read my responses you will do just fine.
IT'S A LONG DAY EFFORT WITH THE RIGHT KNOWLEDGE.
You need the Chilton book emission hose guide or the GM print out...
It's along day, but when done correct....
Regular 1/2" heater hose & 5/16" windshiled wiper hose is all ya need. Spit & motor oil, too.
About $2 max....

 

New parts are bad all of the time, Again I would check the diaphram on the EGR valve. This might save you some time and trouble of rerouting your entire vacuum system.

It may not be it but its easy enough to take off and double check.

 

its all better,im happy

 

what ended up being wrong with it ?

 

well....im not positive,lol,i took the top back off n made sure everythin was tight n put it all back together n it was fine. their was a tube that runs from the tb under the plenum to the back right of the engine that was loose n i got that in . so maybe that? not sure though.hehe. im gettin my doors shaved for free2 ,im happy

 

I knew it was prabably one of those vacumn hoses . They can make a car run like crap .

 

yeah,the are extremely gay,lol. lat night i finally talked 2 one of my neighbors who has a few s10's bagged n shaved n that crap, im gettin mine shaved for free ...And im gettin better heads. so ima happy camper,lol,i still cant find fenders. im goin nuts

 

I just finished installing my $24 front driver fender this Sunday.
I'll do the inner fender at a later date.

Lots of decent looking fenders in the SoCal yards lately.
I did wait about two years for a good one, then three show up at once.

CHECK THE BACK SIDE OF THE FENDER YOU PULL
YOU MAY find a Made in China tag!
I've had those & they are flimsy trash!!!
Buckle at a heavy wind!