I never did a re-torque on my front sway bar mounting brackets!! I dove under the car yesterday to do a lube job, and nearly scratched my eye out- the driver's side sway bar mounting bracket (going to the frame) was bent down!! I somehow lost the rear bolt, and as I was driving, the bar must've been bending- and bent the sway bar mount completely flat, so it was pointing straight down!

So check the torque of those bolts! By the way, the bolt is a metric 10x30mm, coarse thread. $1.20 each in the hanging "bubble pack" at Pep Boys. And I thought my car's understeer was caused by the crack in my bad rear 1/4 panel. Oops.

 

OO damn. On my s10 I had the end links come out going down the interstate. I noticed a drastic change then. So when I find some and swap them out, I will make sure I tighten the **** outta them

 

Oh $hit , you guys dont be telling me this ! heh . I have the same tie-rods and frontend on my car . CAR HAS 189K ON IT !

 

<----- Grabs torque wrench for installing IROC sway bars and wonderbra.

Oops I mean bar.

 

Hey mike, did you notice a difference installing that wonderbra on your car?? I noticed one on ebay for 46 bux, and I plan on going to a junk yard on saturday. I was thinking of looking for one. Where is it located at under the car??

 

I didn't install them yet, I'm picking them up on Sunday. Another week or 2 and they should be on the car.

 

ok, let me know how it goes.

 

I have wonder bar, Iroc sways, and the strut tower brace. Out of those the 'Roc sway really tightened the suspension up. The Wonder bar did not do alot. The Strut bar, yes made a differnce WITH the wonderbar, as it completely boxed the front end then. I now squeel tires around turns that I did not before so I know the front is tight as hell.

 

So if I find a wonderbar, along with the sways, jack it. But if not, its not a big deal? I heard them tower braces are not a good idea for daily drivers (or thus on euro trash). I gonna go with the sway bars first, then maybe that. I'm still currently working on the engine, so it would just get in my way for now.

 

the first thing I did was get sway bars. They made a HUGE difference. I then put on the "Wonder Bar", well one wonders what is does. It did not do anything special for me. I then put on that Jamex strut bar, and 'Oh holly hell BatMan, the front is tighter then a virgin nun! Well worth the $30 bucks and the month wait.

 

I been with ones that tight, I pass . Since Its for my wife, I will prob just get the sway bars for now, and see if she likes the ride and turning. If she wants better, it leaves me space for improvement. Thanks for the info!!! :hail:

 

Just returned from the salvage yard, all the f-bodys that still had sway bars they were 1.375 in dia., and most had rear sways that I would say were .75-1 in in dia (visually looking). These are not what I'm neededing correct?? What size am I needing?? Thanks

 

the ones that have the "about 1"" rear sway, GET 'EM BOTH. They are about 1.25" front and 1" rear. Its funny if you compare the new rear to the old V6 front the new rear is almost thicker!.

 

you guys are getting me anxious to put my WS6 sway bars on. Which are 36mm Hollow Front and 24mm Solid Rear. If you compare the difference in size, its just amazing how "BIG" six milimeters difference really is (I have my original 30mm front/18mm rear on my car).

I am not good with the loosy standard system (and i am full blooded, born on american soil boy) and don't know what these sizes are in standard. the metric system is so much better, no fractions or decimals necessary...

 

I don't like to bring my calipers to the junkyard... 1, they can get messed up; and 2, they wrecking yard owners might think I'm a rich boy or something, so I use an open-ended wrench and a piece of paper. I use a ruler to draw a 36mm line on a piece of paper. Then I tighten down an open-ended wrench on the CENTER of my current sway bar, and mark the jaws on the paper. Then when I'm at the yard, if my wrench won't fit over a junkyard f-bodies' front sway bar, I know that car's bar is bigger than mine.

Oh I guess you could also bring a small metric ruler into the yard along with the adjustable wrench...

 

Oh yeah, and Wayne, it's not a hard job to replace the pieces. Tie rods are easy, center link is easy. Idler arm requires some extra effort (I hear we need to make marks on the frame to install the new idler in the same place so as not to throw the alignment far off.) Replacing the lower control arm bushings and balljoints requires more work in the way of disassembly. I tell ya though, back in '95 when my center link and idler arm was replaced, it made for a HELL of an improvement in handling! That's why i want to replace it all again.

And as an update to my bolt-fell-out-and-bracket-bent problem, that bracket wouldn't go back into the original shape. I think it might if I spent hours on it, but I'm not going to. I'll grab one from a junkyard.