do they make a underdirve pulley system for 2.8-3.4 v6's ??





anyone know of this ?

 

Most everyone uses just the crank pulley because of charging problems with the alt. pulley.

 

Summit part number - ASP541800 ......its only $38.00

 

"ASP541801 - This # is for the crank & Alt. pulleys. This set will raise the full charge rpm to 1100, so be careful."

hmm what does that mean, the alt is at full charge at 1100 rpm , so what could that do??? what good or bad could happen

 

I'm

 

It means that operating at rpm's lower than 1100 the alt will not spin fast enough and the battery will discharge. It has to spin at least 1100 to show a positive charge. I noted full charge only as a reference for discharge to charge state, and not the highest capability of the alt output (maximum charge). It should be without me stating that the higher output of the alt. is the faster it turns up to aprox. 6000rpm's of the alt. (not 6000 engine rpm's)

The stock crank pulley allows for full or positive charge(again as opposed to discharge)at aprox.500-600rpm.

The aftermarket crank pulley alone will be aprox.850-900rpm

 

in other words: the alt needs to spin a certain rpm to excite, kick in, the voltage reg to start charging the batt. the slower the alt spins, the less likely it will charge your batt.

 

I found the part number just fine on aspracing.com, and its on the car already.

 

so its a bad idea to get aftermarket pulleys then ??


i have heard from a friend that its a bad idea to get them

 

I have a power crank only pully on my dodge dakota and my camaro. I have power crank and alt on my s10 show truck. From the research I have done, if its a daily driver, do the crank only. If you drive it occasionaly, and race it once in a while, do the crank and alt, if its race only, get the crank, alt, and waterpump. I noticed off the line power, and mid range power. Hope this helps.

 

I have been running both ASP pulleys on my 3.1 for over two years now without any charging problems what-so-ever. Many people have concerns about charging problems, but I haven't ever experienced any. The only negative results of the pulleys is a slight dimming of the accessories when the car is at idle, and voltage will drop to around 10. Once the car gets going it'll shoot back up to 14-15. If you have an amp or etc, I definately wouldn't reccomend it.

 

you have a site i can goto, or tell me the place you got the pulley kind from ?


i dont have a system in my car so i dont have to worry about that

 

www.aspracing.com

 

IF you live in a "HOT" climate, your cooling may be affected, also.
Depends on how much you "use" your car and if AC is activated, often.
Probably can compensate the cooling problems with the larger V-8 rad, anyway.

Are these "power" pullies better on the serpentine belt set ups or the older multiple belt set ups?

 

They make them for both, but I belive asp is more popular for the serpinten kind.

 

Id just get the crank pulley if I were you . You live in a very warm climate like I do .

 

Well mines daily driver, and seem to average a good 2500 milesa month. I never experienced any overheating problems, temps never got higher than 220 on a hot day (95*) in city traffic, and never had problems in the winter (20*). Heater and AC still pump out hot and cold air....so no problems there either. Just letting you know my experience with them, I would say go for it....but just keep your eye on your voltage meter when you first get them. That'll tell you how you battery's keeping up. Mine fluctuates from 9, 10ish at idle.....to 12-15 cruising. I've had the same battery since I have had them. My alternator was replaced at 85,000 miles.....I have 110,000 0n the clock now.

 

I set my idel for 1000 rpm so i should not notice much if any lose in juice. sounds like a good idea

 

how do i set the rpm levels ?



xonya

 

Do those with this bottom pully run the serpentine set up or multiple belts?
How large is your radiator?
The V-8 one?
This is good information.

 

all my rides have stock radiators, stock fans, stock alts, power crank (lower pully) and then the s10 has the alt one also. no over heating, no charging probs (that I cant blame on something else ) So to me their worth it.

 

Again what belt set up?

 

I am not sure on the proper way but there is the stop screw for the throttle. I just clampd some vise grips on it and adjusted as needed.

It can be done right with a torx bit but I could not get at it.

 

My cooling system is entirely stock as well. And I am running my with a serpentine belt. Actually just replaced it! But like Dale on his S10, not overheating problems ever, and not charging problems. Just for info, I have a Pioneer headunit, and am running a Bell Vector 95 Radar/Laser detector also. Very occasionally the detector will flash low voltage at idle with the following all running at once: AC on high, wipers, radio, headlights, and fog lights. And it will usally only do it while the wipers a moving, its kinda funny. But, I have never had a problem with my battery charging, and never overheated either.

 

All my rides are uni-belt. My s10 has a kenwood deck, pioneer 400w comp amp, 100w jensen amp, elec airbag compressor, had neons on it tell I broke one, shaved door handles (elec remote pop), composite over watted headlights. Trust me, it should hold up, esp if you do the crank only. At a light at night with most of that running, it charges average. Now if I have the tunes way loud on a very bass worthy song, it does dim quite a bit.