Well I had this problem before, so I changed to o2 and the coil, that seemed to have helped(because it didnt do it afterwards). But reciently my alternator took a ****, so I replaced that and now the symptom is back: When im driving runs great, but when im stopping the car downs way down in rpms and sometimes kills. When it did this before it took a few days for the computer to correct it. I am going to do a tune up sometime this week, do you think this could be the problem, or is it something else im missing. Oh yea and the service engine light doesnt come on.

 

Have you ever replaced your IAC (idle air control)

 

nope haved changed that, where is it located, and how hard is it to replace

 

Above the Trottle Postion sensor, passanger side of the butterfly right on top, the sensor is round all black with 4 wires coming out of the bottom of it, will have two torx screws holding it on.

 

maybe a vacuum leak in towards the power brake setup....maybe even the power brake check valve??? (don't take my word for it, im just throwing ideas out.) anyway, its cheap/easy enough to eliminate as a cause.

 

well If I had a vaccume leak wouldnt the cruse control not work properly? Because mine works as good as can be

 

Crusie I belive would still work. You can carefully clean that IAC, and the port it goes in, rather then pay the $ to get a new one. I would still throw a vac guage on it, and if its only while the break is on, that check vavle sounds like a good idea also.

 

EGR can cause that also...

 

well it isnt the iac, baught a new one put it in and get the same, ill try a vac gauge, do you just get those at local parts stores?

Oh and I was looking on the autozone website, and they didnt have a power brake check valve, where can I get one from?

 

A spot that likes to leak vacuum is them hoses running to the vapor canaster. both of them hoses like to dry rot and they may seam whole but are porus like a sponge. from all the heat rising up on that part from the engine to the wheel well.

I fixed mine once, I realized it when if i sprayed the hoses with
wd-40 it would idle right and it also sucked it up like a sponge. I ended up just unhooking them and pluging them off as close to the engine as i could.

fix it up. Idle is still not super smooth, i can get it to idle super smooth but I must unhook the EGR but then it dont run as well when gettin on it hard.


i have no idea what it can tellme buto nthe smaller hose its part of the EGR circut and i stuck a vacuum gauge on there. i guess it tells me when the EGR kicks in but not sure if I even need to know. Just another neat gauge.

i got mine from gaugestore.com some cheap 6-7 buck ones, i used the m to build a carb sync for a bike.

 

You probably could've just cleaned the IAC pintle, instead of replacing the IAC. You should still clean out the IAC passageway from carbon, if you do a search for "clean IAC passageway" (make sure to choose the V6 forum), you'll find info on it.

 

don't worry too much about the website...i'm pretty sure they carry the check valves, as well as any other chain store. check the section with the vacuum connectors, or just ask. they're common, and cheap....and if it is not the problem, at least you will eliminate it as a possibility.

good luck

 

I did clean out the passageway and where the iac sits with carb cleaner, then I wiped it all out clean, also it runs fine when its cold, just when it heats up it does it

 

It also might be ine of your pistons is not pireing. One time one of my spark plug wires came out of it's retainer and got all messed up, when ever my car was at a low ideal, or I accelerated form a stop it was rough. Easy fix though.