Well... the car left me walking again... on the highway.
But some dude gave us a ride home.

Ok... started running real bad, surging the idles... BACKFIREING..
sound like the timing chain is slipping.

when i tryed to go it felt like something was slipping in the engine like the timing chain on the sprokets.

Is this the timing chain?

I couldn't get it to idle after.
help

 

Have you tried starting it yet after the engine's cooled down? Wonder if it might be the ignition module (runs great when engine cold, dies when engine- and module- gets hot).

 

do a complete tune up

 

Got the car towed home..
the car now::::

Stops but Stalls Imedietly.


Replaced Cap/rotor/plugs/wire/Alternater/EGRValve

I'm thinking it's somethign with the fuel.

How do I check the Fuel pump (I hope not)
And the fuel pump relay?

thanks

 

well the fuel pump is in the gas tank.
thats a mission on its own to get too

 

I know, I was just wondering if there is a way to test the stuff I need to test by using a Digital MultiMeter.
Any Info would be great.

> P.S. The fuel pump does 'hum'.<

 

Get a pressure tester from Sears.

Taht's what I did.

 

check fuel pressure @ the schrader valve.

 

Yep, you need that pressure gauge. Trust me, it'll be one of the best $40 you spend... if my car ever acts up, I throw the gauge on it, and if I see that my fuel pressure's good, I can eliminate the fuel system from the problem list.

You should get 42ish PSI after connecting the valve, and turning the ignition from "off" to "on" (not starting it), which primes the pump for 2-3 seconds.

Also, go here for my code 54 chart. You're not getting a code 54 but the chart walks you through tracing the wires of the fuel system. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=116965 Good luck, I hope it's not the pump. I've been there & done that twice already If it is the pump, I'll give you some of my tips for installing it...

 

I checked my error codes.
It says code 34.
But I just replaced the MAF with one from the junkyard and it ran fine. but it still doesnt start with the maf unplugged so i doubt thats the problem.

Also my dad thinks it my be the Distrubuter Module, Could this be possible? We're getting it tested tommorow.

Its also throwing the module code but thats cause its outa the car..

 

Coil is going bye bye
modular is close behind
Classic ignition symptoms.
Been there & walked, too.
Fuel pressure is always after the car is STOPPED THEN RESTARTED & it won't restart.
Ignition system
AND ya need the guage on the fuel pressure schrader valve to be 100% ACCURATE if ya get enough fuel presure.
Been there guessing, too.

 

Can i test the coil with a multi meter? Where do i test it?
i test the spark and there was lots of spark..

 

Honest?
Here's what ya do.
GO BUY NEW HI PO COIL & INSTALL!
It won't hurt!
They cost about $30-$40.
I use Accel.
I had your problem.
I saw spark.
THEN I CHECKED CHANGED THIS & THAT
I even learned how to rebuild a distributor (it's so bloody easy!)
Still no start.
I pull coil form my 1985 S-10 Blazer (2.8 V-6) that is an Accel remote mount and "wired it in"
Started right up.
SPARK MUST MUST MUST BE LIGHTENING BOLT BRIGHT & WHITE
to fire the car.
IF SPARK HAS THE SLIGHTEST BLUEISH TINT coil replacment is due.
I say coil or modular.
Don't bother testing, just go get them. Can also "install" after you "wire in" new coil to get car started.
Really being honest.
IT's cheap investment to prove wrong & it will only help car in end anyway & can return if ya don't install the modular, too.
But fuel is the pressure guage, no "Eye see fuel gush out" top think fuel pump is operating correctly.

I've had coil go
I've had modular go.
Both feel the same, while driving, hey car is dead.
Yep that's how it goes.
Fuel pump dies upon restart, 99% of the time, not while driving.

 

i'll check the spark out tommorow its 2 am right now

 

Grab a Leblatts Blue & go have fun.
Right now is perfect time to try this
Pull plug wire, stick in paperclip.
Ground it somewhere.
Crank over observe spark.
You can see any blueish color..........coil.
I still say coil
Why,
look where it's mounted.
I'll send ya an email of my remote mount coil location if I can.
I'm pumped just won an eaby auction of old Lionel Trains manuals in mint shape
Christmas here I come!
I got the Lionel trains stuff, not sure how to hook up without killing myself!

 

LOL, definately, if you look up at the top, I suggested the ignition module right away. But "usual" death of the module means the car runs good when cold, and dies when hot- the module overheats. But it could be that your module is completely fried, too.

Good diagnosis with unplugging the MAF, and still seeing a no-start... question: When you replaced the MAF with the junkyard one, did you ever clear the code out of the computer? You might still be seeing that old code 34 from the old MAF...

And yeah, Karl's right... if that spark's too weak and gets quenched by the air/fuel mix, nothing will start. Also, you could check the TPS. If the TPS is giving a false WOT reading, the computer goes into "clear flood mode" (same as when you floor the gas when starting the car), and the computer turns off the injectors.

The timing could also be super-advanced. Have you pulled and read the plugs yet? Running on high over-advanced timing can cause plug damage; so if you find a few damaged plugs, you know you're detonating pretty badly. If the plugs all turn out wet, you know the spark isn't powerful enough. The module might still be able to give a spark, but it might not be able to give a strong enough spark, or correctly-timed spark.

 

>TomP - I did not clear the code from the computer because the SeS light never came on. I drove it around the block without the maf to see if that was it before I bought the maf. - The SeS light was on.
- So Just from unplugging the MAF (and now the ignition Module) I have to reset the codes once I get it running again?
- The plugs look normal.

>Karl - thanks for the images - I will check the spark again when my dad gets home.

 

>UPDATE: The module is fine, we got it tested at NAPA.
But the clip that holds the wires together that goes into the module was so brittle/roten that it fell apart in our hands. Anyone know whut that part is called?

 

>UPDATE:
MY gas gauge doesn't work so I had a Ohmmeter hooked up till i could find one. I guess that didnt work too well...
According to the ohmmeter I had half a tank of gas when I had none.
I feel so stupid. lol
Now time to find a damn gas gauge which is near impossible around here..

Thanks for ur help

 

You must now pull distributor to rebuild.
That item on shaft is only accessed by removing unit, disassembling (sliding apart), replace, then rebuild.
It's truly a simple job
Do a search for my thread about distributor rebuilding.
I also suggest again a coil replacement even try a wrecking yard swap.

You have complete ignition failure.

Once you do this distrb. rebuild, only better way now is to swap in new timing chain.
You'll feel like you've rebuilt the engine for cheap, so much power gain.
This is all very worthwhile in the end. You will have a transformed car shortly, working right, running pretty darn good!

You are now experiencing what I call
POS
Previous Owner Syndrome, problems caused by lack of a previous owner, only an idiot could screw things up so much!

 

Hey,
I had no fuel lol.
I ran outa gas.
read the reply above ur post

 

Good score
Nursing shoulder injury
Still have to rebuild distrb. to fix that weak part on distb. shaft.

 

we replaced the clip that hold the 2 wires in that goes into the ignition module, we got it for free at the auto wreckers.
It just slipped over the wires and went in.

 

I feel better, I'm not the only one who did it