The light on the dash, saying your ebrake is engaged. It will not go out, and the brake is definetly disengaging. Is there a switch I can check?

 

There is a pressure switch by your master cylinder and if it reads there is no brake pressure it will go off. Maybe that sensor went bad.

 

Open the hood & check your brake fluid system and check the wheel cylinders, too.
Look for leaks,
Ya brakes feel funky?
Fast RS is correct with that tip.
Tha light also indicates a problem in the brake system.

 

The 'Emergency Brake Engaged' light? The red 'BRAKE' light in the bottom right corner? That is on when the eBrake is on, and off when you release the hand brake (under normal conditions)?

Are we talking the same light here?

 

pic:

 

Yes, the light has more than 1 function. Check the fluid level first.

 

Straight from the service manual:

BRAKE WARNING LAMP OPERATION:

-During engine cranking. Alerts driver that circuit is OK.

-Parking brake ON (with key ON only)

-Pressure differential switch detects a failure.



BRAKE PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH:

-Constantly compares brake pressure in both parts of system.



So basically, either the switch is bad or part of your brake system has lower pressure than the other. Check both wheel cylinders and both calipers for fluid leaks. Inspect all parts of the brake lines for damage.

 

Or it may be internally collasped brake hose that needs replacing.
Ya brake pedal gotta feel funky & the car gotta be pulling one way while braking by now, right?
Don't keep driving thinking this is ok.
Something is the matter & you MAY loose your brakes at the wrong moments.
Truth.
Follow your brake lines, hard & rubber flex to find problem.
Could even be that the switch in the console got damaged.
Find problem for yours & others safety.
It'll be a cheaper fix than damage in an accident, promise!
Been there.
Kept my 1974 Corvette off the road for 6 months until I cured by constant on brake light.
Including rebuilding the rear axle assembly to fix excessive wear causing brake line air pockets & spongy brakes.

 

Will do. Actually, yeah, it's pulling under hard braking to the left, and the front left tends to lock up now, but i had written that off as an almost bald tire.

damn, and to think I've been putting it off!! I'll go check it out now!

 

Next time that happens, put tranny into neutral immediatly & steer strong!
Never loose control of front wheels!
Pull off each wheel & REALLY LOOK ALL OVER USE LIGHTS TO SEE EVERY DETAIL.
My rear wheel locked up ONCE.
Problem bad wheel cylinder.
Replaced,
fixed problem.
Keep car off road until ya know the score.
Honest
way cheaper than an accident

 

Sounds like the right brake hose might be clogged. If you slam on the brakes and it jerks to the left, if you let up quickly on the brakes, does it yank back to the right? Definately check that fluid level fast... and even if the fluid is correct, you might have a large amount of air in the system. After I did my rear disc swap, I couldn't get rid of that brake warning light for anything; turned out I got a bad rebuilt master cylinder. Even then, swapping another new one on didn't do much to improve things until I bought the Phoenix V12 Injector ( http://www.brakebleeder.com ), that tool is awesome, I pressure bled the whole system by myself in 10 minutes. Sure as hell beats the "have helper press brake pedal, loosen bleeder screw, tighten bleeder screw, have helper release brake pedal" routine!

 

um... omg... KED85, thanks man, but don't worry, I know how to drive. It only locks up when I get on teh brake.

Yeah, the problem was no fluid in the front res. NO biggie, put more in, and went to bleed.

I had those bleeder screws. Totally stripped the passanger front one, WITH A 6 point 10mm wrench. Ohyvei... time to by some tiny vice grips

 

If all your fluid is gone, their might be a leak somewhere. I would keep looking.

 

Ask Jim Rockford how it feels to drive without brakes.

Out in LA they "Sue" happy.

Proper working brakes is the cheapest auto insurance you can have.

I second that common sense thinking on looking for a leak.
Buy new bleeder screws for cheap & replace them.
Sounds like you've run up against a POS (previous owner syndrome).
Besides, think how much more fun your car will now be to drive after ya fixed the brakes.

 

Doward, did your bleeder screws still have the caps on 'em? Those are supposed to help keep the bleeder screws from rusting solid to the calipers. If you find where that leak was, let us know!

 

Mine doesnt even come on, only when you turn the key to the on pos. How do I check of fix this?

 

Common sense says..
start at the obvious, the praking brake switch... and trace backwards...