Another Camaro?! I think so!
Another Camaro?! I think so!
I was looking in teh papaer today and I see an 1985 Camaro Z28
305 T-tops air ac PW PL Magnaflow exhaust, Emissions $3000/obo
Sounds goo to me! I might go check it out..
what do you guys think, are there any specific locations that I should look at on the car..
305 T-tops air ac PW PL Magnaflow exhaust, Emissions $3000/obo
Sounds goo to me! I might go check it out..
what do you guys think, are there any specific locations that I should look at on the car..
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
I would say for canada, rust, esp the floor boards.
Also check for bondo in the non-obvious spots, like the top of the fender, top of the doors, etc. How to check, take a average size magnit with ya. If owner dont mind, try sticking it to the car in a few spots. Don't drag it on the car, but if you feel it try and pull, its good sign of no bondo.
Also check for bondo in the non-obvious spots, like the top of the fender, top of the doors, etc. How to check, take a average size magnit with ya. If owner dont mind, try sticking it to the car in a few spots. Don't drag it on the car, but if you feel it try and pull, its good sign of no bondo.
Last edited by Dale; Nov 27, 2002 at 11:16 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,221
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Re: Another Camaro?! I think so!
Originally posted by SuPeR SpOrT
I was looking in teh papaer today and I see an 1985 Camaro Z28
305 T-tops air ac PW PL Magnaflow exhaust, Emissions $3000/obo
Sounds goo to me! I might go check it out..
what do you guys think, are there any specific locations that I should look at on the car..
I was looking in teh papaer today and I see an 1985 Camaro Z28
305 T-tops air ac PW PL Magnaflow exhaust, Emissions $3000/obo
Sounds goo to me! I might go check it out..
what do you guys think, are there any specific locations that I should look at on the car..
Check the strut towers for holes. Next wheel wells. The front are usually good, but the rear takes it all. If you see rubber rockguard in the rear wheel wells, ask if you can remove the rear inside panels, and chack for rust around them. Lots of people cover this stuff up.
Check floor, mostly driver side will be weak. Often the rust from the inside out, So it could be almost rusted through from the inside and not be able to see it.
Now make sure you can take it for a drive. Cause if you can only yard drive it the clutch could be gone (or missing OD for auto) and you won't know till the cash is in their hands and you on your way home.
Final advice, 3000 it better be in really great condition, or have a TPI. Try to beat him down, like 2300-2500.
When I visited Canada back in 1973 or so, I recall seeing an older Ford (like a 68-69 model), door skin was flapping in the wind as the rust had eaten away so much door.
I WAS STUNNED!!!!!
Only when I lived on the Pacific beach in Marina del Rey (early 80's) do I recall seeing cars that bad.
All the wrecks in the yard no rust at all. Ok Barely any rust....
I WAS STUNNED!!!!!
Only when I lived on the Pacific beach in Marina del Rey (early 80's) do I recall seeing cars that bad.
All the wrecks in the yard no rust at all. Ok Barely any rust....
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