Last week after totaly screwing up my timing and carb ajustment (engine was running like crap), I found water in my oil. Tore it down installed new head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, etc. Put it all back together - yesterday, water in the oil.
Cracked head or Intake manifold not sealed prop ? or...?

On a good note - When I put it back together, the idle smoothed out and the durn thing ran right! for the first time sence I've had that engine! Here I've been blaming the E2S carburetor and all along its been a manifold leak.
R.J.

 

or worse, cracked block .

Did the heads still look allright underneath? could you find any water tracking on the head gaskets when you pulled them? Be carefull on how long/hard you drive this motor now. Check the intake gaskets. don't think the water pump/front timing cover could do this, but might want to check into it also.

 

It's Dead, Jim.

My Blazer died at 211,500 miles.
Chocolate milk was the bullet.
And I tried/wasted my time trying to revive it!
Forget about it!
I await finishing touches on my 3.4 swap under the 1985 Blazer induction/ignition system.

FOR YOU, THO,
a V-8 upgrade is the perfect answer, too!
I was gonna V-8 my Blazer, but
A $300 smog re-inspection for a biannual CA smog sticker was one factor
And the factory AC still blew ice cold air (but my heater core is shot & now disconnected-awaiting the running engine to go to the next project)

 

GhostRider84, what part of AR you from. I had choclate milk radiator fluid when my head cracked, and gasket blew. But that was due to the lower radiator hose coming off.

 

But that was due to the lower radiator hose coming off.

DO I KNOW WHAT THAT LOOKS LIKE
I saw it in the rear view mirror (when my motor blew from OD-ing on no water due to...)!
It was GREAT!
I saved the piston with the hole in it.
It's "hanging out", on item behind me, now.

 

The only good thing that came out of it was finding out that the motor was in real bad need of being rebuilt. MY crank broke in half I drove it around for 3 more days until it would not run anymore. But because of the motor going my SC turned out how it is now because of it.

 

ypu're the perfect canident for the 3.4 swap w/the Fageol spercharger. I wanna know what numbers that combo will put up

 

IF I was able to find one of those K & F superchargers again (I saw it for $500 at a swap meet)
I MAY be tempted.
But for that $500, know how much faster I can go in one of my V-8 powered cars?
For my 3.4 Blazer, I'm looking for used headers at Swap meets. That's worth my money

 

Yes, I saw some leak tracking around the No.3 cylinder on the head gasket (there was chocolate milk in heads 2 and 3 - no idea how it got into No.2). Chocolate milk on the dipstick - BUT the water was clean !!?? I have another 2.8 sitting in the backyard waiting on a rebuild. I'm gonna pull the intake next week and reseal - this time the heII with silicone - I'm gona use some Permatex #2.

85SportCoupeto89RS : I've got a place in Conway - but I hang in L.R. - when I'm not out on the road, (which is now becouse of a back injury).

Yes, I'm thinking about a 3.4 but that will be next summer, right now my back is giving me hell, I'm just try'n to get some basic trans.

 

I wonder if the heads warped; and when you put them back on, the gasket blew out again. Did you check the heads and the block deck with a machinist's straight edge? (I want one, but those things are so freakin' expensive!)

 

lucky me that I'm a machinest

 

TomP - I didn't have a machinest straight edge, but I used a regular straight edge to check the heads and the block - checked out ok. I goofed a while ago - the chocolate milk was in cyl. 2 and cyl. 4 not 3 (not that it matters). The crazy thing now, is that the thing is ideling smooth but running like crap. I pulled the plugs yesterday & they looked good'n clean. I'm gona pull the manifold today and reseal. I hold my breath every time I disconect that fuel line - if it screws up I don't have another one - can't get another one.
Oh, & TomP, the valves in these heads are much larger(exhaust-aprox 1.45") than the ones in the other engine('85 S10) so I must have the newer heads.

 

Just like to point out that with the 60* V6, the water pump/front timing cover *can* be the cause of a water-in-oil problem. This is why if you accidentally break the seal on the front cover when you remove the pump it becomes imperative that you take the whole thing off and reseal it from scratch.

 

Thanks TechSmurf, I han't thought of that - but I resealed the intake manifold - and drove it yesterday - today the oil looked good. Looks like I dodged a bullit. Thankx all.

 

Whew that was close!

Here's a tip for the sixers... Rather than mess around with the four corner studs, replace them with intake bolts. Makes removal and installing it much easier!

 

MDv6man, you must be psychic !

after I had the manifold off, I backed out the studs - put 'em in finger tight, then when I put it back & had the other bolts in place I backed 'em out & put in bolts. ..... But I hope I don't have to go back in there soon!
R.J.