Just curious, I saw one on ebay. It showed an engine pic--the air intake duct went off the the front right of the car--like a Firebird!

I remember my pld 86 Camaro V6 it went straight and had the twin filters just like the V8.

So, is this normail for 90?

 

Yes, thats normal for a 3.1l.

 

Thanks. Wonder why they changed it?

I mean, Firebirds had to have that cause of headlights but as far as I know it was a major reason why the V8 cars were always rated 10hp less then a similar Camaro.

 

Well they changed over to the filter-in-can assembly when they dropped the MAF...they probably did it under the same motivation most car companies use...it's easier.

 

they swtiched from a MAF to SD(speed density)
I think I read that once...

 

I have a 1990 Camaro RS V6. Here is the engine bay. Don't mind the enlarged airbox, that is the SLP CAI, but this is basically what is should look like.

 

I like the airbox..but...why would you retain that stock arm? It's not very flow-friendly! And, yeah, when they dropped the MAF they used a Speed Density system utilizing an MAP sensor instead of MAF.

 

That's the one that SLP provides with the kit. (Same as stock)Same with any of their CAI kits. There was definately an improvement in performance and also tone of the exhaust as well though definately. It draws in much more cold air!

 

Yeah...I just don't understand why SLP would utilize a stock arm when there's a football field of room in there. They could've easily taken a plastic or stainless steel circular 3 in. tube and bent it to fit in there with some nice smooth angles...but that's just me... It's just that running with that stock intake arm and an open-element K&N on the end, and then running with a custom made little 3 in. tube setup and conical..well, the difference is night and day..the arm is more restrictive than it seems. Just my .02.

 

Can you order just that box by itself?

I'm asking because I just got a CAI for my Cavy Z24, and the piping, If you added a rubber connecting boot at the box, might match up nicely. It was also a cheap one (they usually run for $35-40 with a nice filter, I picked up mine for 25) and made a big difference on my 4 cyl.

 

try this:
http://thirdgenmods.firebirdv6.com/coldair.html

"cold" air intake for $60 bucks, and its the filter that costs $50. all u need is a few pieces of 3in abs pipe and a 3in K&N cone filter. i'll be doing this soon to get rid of my rusted old air canister. i dont think i'll see a performance difference but getting rid of that crusty air canister is my main motivation.

btw anyone know how much an IAT (intake air temp) sensor is?

 

Shouldnt need a new IAT when you go to CAI, it just unscrews outta the can. Cresent wrench or I think it was a deepwell 3/4" to take it out.

But shouldnt be more then 20 bux for one from local parts store.

 

It's a rinky dink little sensor...doubt it's expensive. You can relocate it however ya want...hell, I had mine laying out of the air stream and taped to the location where the old filter can sat...ran fine, only threw a check engine light once...

 

if its 20 dollars im not gonna bother replacing it. do they go bad at all after time? does it really even matter? just figured i might as well get a new, but the old one seems fine. i thought it might be like a $5 dollar sensor and wouldnt hurt to replace.

 

Doubt they really go bad..all they do is get crud and crap on the tip of them.... Just do what Dale said...disconnect and remove...it'll probably be a son of a bitch to get out but put some liquid wrench and use some muscle and it'll screw its way out.. Gotta have it hooked up or else the comp will throw a default and act screwy, but as long as it's anywhere NEAR the intake stream and connected, it works fine. All it does is pick up the temperature of the incoming air to help the computer calculate its density. And underhood temps in that general area aren't going to be that much different unless the sensor location/intake location is closer to the engine or in front of the radiator where it picks up extra heat.