V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

Cross threaded lug nuts

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Old Mar 30, 2003 | 10:19 PM
  #1  
89V6FBIRD's Avatar
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From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Cross threaded lug nuts

One of the studs for the lug nuts was cross threaded. Do I have to replace all 5 or can I just replace one? It's the front right wheel. How hard is this to do?

Thanx
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Old Mar 30, 2003 | 10:44 PM
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KED85's Avatar
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
Two choices
DON'T BOTHER TO DEAL WITH IT
or
Remove the rotor & have one pressed out & pressed in
At SAME TIME redo all five!
It's just as cheap as doing one!
PS on mine?
One stud broke.
I need to install all five at one.
I've already purchased five studs.
Awaiting the time to do it.
Right now I just drive using four, as it's ok.
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Old Mar 30, 2003 | 11:50 PM
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AGood2.8's Avatar
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Here's one of my suspension board links that might be of interest to you.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=156235
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Old Mar 31, 2003 | 07:53 PM
  #4  
89V6FBIRD's Avatar
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From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Thanks for the link AGood2.8. How long does it take from start to finish? It's pull the rotor, and then hammer it out with something like a 16 oz hammer? Might as well find new rotors while I'm at it. You think chrome lug nuts would look good?
Attached Thumbnails Cross threaded lug nuts-done-mounted.jpg  
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Old Mar 31, 2003 | 09:41 PM
  #5  
AGood2.8's Avatar
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by 89V6FBIRD
Thanks for the link AGood2.8. How long does it take from start to finish? It's pull the rotor, and then hammer it out with something like a 16 oz hammer? Might as well find new rotors while I'm at it. You think chrome lug nuts would look good?
With the backing plate on rear drum brake cars I think you may have to pull the axles to get the longer 2 1/2" studs in - that is quite a job and not worth it- use the standard 1 1/8" studs that come stock with the car. Disc brake backing plates have a section of the pie radius that is shorter where the caliper bolts to the backing plate- on this style you simple remove the 4-bolts from the backing plate to axle housing and simply push the plate off the large bearing cap section inward towards the diff. This allows you to offset the backing plate thus giving enough room to remove and replace the longer 2 1/2" wheel studs.

16oz. hammer is fine /i used a 20 oz. with ease.

Wheel stud replacements on all four corners of my car took me about 2-3 hours- cleaning things and replacing front bearings and such. I am fully air tool equipped though. (Always use a new cotterpin on the front spindle jamnut!, My father reused one years ago on the rear axle of his '63 356 bathtub Porsche and lost the LR hub assembly on the Culver Frwy here in L.A.- Talk about an E-ticket ride. He spun the car to the left and came out of it with the car barely damaged at all- Pops is a heck of a driver in his ownright.)
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Old Apr 24, 2003 | 11:24 PM
  #6  
89V6FBIRD's Avatar
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From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
I'm finally going to have time to do this tomorrow. Basically pull the bearing & rotor. What do I use to knock it out w/ the hammer? A chisel? or the hammer alone? Then once I get it out, I slide the new one in place, use the new lug nut to seat it right? Repack, then I'm done?

Prolly start cleanin out the project car tomorrow too!!! :lala:
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Old Apr 24, 2003 | 11:49 PM
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
i repack the wheel bearings any time i pull them out, it will never hurt to repack them. fresh grease is always a good thing for bearings.
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Old Apr 25, 2003 | 09:11 AM
  #8  
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You might want to spin an old lug nut onto the top of the damaged stud; it'll give you something "bigger" to aim for with the hammer.

Use an old lugnut (or one you bought but don't plan on using for the car) to pull the new stud on. When I changed a snapped lugnut on my junkyard rear axle, I put a washer between the lugnut and the axle hub. When the new stud was in, I put the lugnut I used onto the snapped stud, and threw it in the toolbox.
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