compression test figures
compression test figures
I recently did a compression test on my V6 and the numbers were all about the same most of them at 190PSI. Now the Haynes manual says something about 150 max. And the original factory manual doesn't say anything at all. Is this a common number? "Compression low" is found everywhere but I don't know what a high compression number means on a stock engine. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
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Re: compression test figures
Originally posted by bernd5179
I recently did a compression test on my V6 and the numbers were all about the same most of them at 190PSI. Now the Haynes manual says something about 150 max. And the original factory manual doesn't say anything at all. Is this a common number? "Compression low" is found everywhere but I don't know what a high compression number means on a stock engine. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.
I recently did a compression test on my V6 and the numbers were all about the same most of them at 190PSI. Now the Haynes manual says something about 150 max. And the original factory manual doesn't say anything at all. Is this a common number? "Compression low" is found everywhere but I don't know what a high compression number means on a stock engine. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yep; does your engine "ping" much? That'll happen with carbon buildup/increase of compression. You can decarbon the walls by removing the air intake tube to the throttle body. Fill an old (and washed out!!) windex bottle with water. Start the motor (might take two tries if you have 85-89 2.8 with MAF), and while it's running, "mist" the water spray in front of the throttle body. This will run into your combustion chambers, convert to steam, and should break the carbon up.
Note that if you poured water into the engine, you'd hydrolock it (water doesn't compress like air) and bend some connecting rods. That's why a windex bottle "misting" water in front of (not into) the throttle body is the way to follow.
My compression numbers a few years were 5 cylinders between 140 and 160, and my #1 cylinder ******* it at 125 psi.
Note that if you poured water into the engine, you'd hydrolock it (water doesn't compress like air) and bend some connecting rods. That's why a windex bottle "misting" water in front of (not into) the throttle body is the way to follow.
My compression numbers a few years were 5 cylinders between 140 and 160, and my #1 cylinder ******* it at 125 psi.
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
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A little water goes a long way... just like steam cleaning your engine! 
I always change my plugs afterward, tho... no real reason why, I just do

I always change my plugs afterward, tho... no real reason why, I just do
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
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Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Don't they make cleaners to do something like that Tom? The idea of water in an engine is a scary though, even if it is only small amounts at a time...
I'd give it a good amount of time between sprays also to make sure the water doesnt remove any oil from the combustion chamber walls so the pistons scratch them up.
I'd give it a good amount of time between sprays also to make sure the water doesnt remove any oil from the combustion chamber walls so the pistons scratch them up.
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Originally posted by Nixon1
Don't they make cleaners to do something like that Tom? The idea of water in an engine is a scary though, even if it is only small amounts at a time...
I'd give it a good amount of time between sprays also to make sure the water doesnt remove any oil from the combustion chamber walls so the pistons scratch them up.
Don't they make cleaners to do something like that Tom? The idea of water in an engine is a scary though, even if it is only small amounts at a time...
I'd give it a good amount of time between sprays also to make sure the water doesnt remove any oil from the combustion chamber walls so the pistons scratch them up.
There probabaly is a cleaner out there. But often times the best solution is the simplest.
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
to dales reply, dodge magnum engines have always had a problem w/ pinging and spark knock. the magnum engines are known for that. in the late 90's trucks, if you look in the owners manuals, it actually says some spark knock is normal, hahahaha. now its 2003 and they still cant get rid of it. its just got something to do w/ the magnum design i guess. all of them do it, the 3.9, 4.7, 5.2, 5.9. just letting you know about that.
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Hm, found three sets of instructions on the web. Which one's right?
1: http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/vi...php&dir=engine
2: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/main...e/cleaner.html
3: http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenm...ne_cleaner.htm
The end of the third set talks about the 1st set's method... hm...
1: http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/vi...php&dir=engine
2: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/main...e/cleaner.html
3: http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenm...ne_cleaner.htm
The end of the third set talks about the 1st set's method... hm...
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
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Transmission: DY T700
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