Anything that will fit a V8 will work even better on our lightweight V6's. A picture of a few of the more trick goodies going on the Camaro this week finally. I say finally because I have had the HMS mounts for 8 months- were on the car for about 1 week then I pulled them back off to have them polished because they looked like crap. also finally just wore out my Firehawk SZ50 EP's and just bought the new Goodyear F1 GS-D3. will put the new parts on with the new tires and align. I'll be looking to top my 1.07g's- heck might even hit the 1.1g mark.

G@d bless the mighty V6's cornering abilities

 

What are the things lying next to the tie-rod adjusting sleeves?

 

i dont see how those tie rod ends could possibly be any better than the stock ones. (exept for the looks)

 

To Bes217 & Soft Taco, Those units are called "bumpsteer kits" They are manditory to correct geometry of the tierods when the car is lowered. The end links are fully adjustable where the rodend attaches to the little black tapered pin that replaces the stock outer tierod.

I currently have another custom bumpsteer block on the car now but clearance is an issue if I decide to run wider front rims, I'm upgrading to Baer's bumpsteer kit. These are just as good as the stock tierods (strengthwise) but the sleeve part of course is much stronger than the stock sleeve. If you maintain the stock outer tierod ends on a car that is lowered extensively- then the car will wander back and forth on you as you hit little road dips and bumps at speed- bumpsteer kits correct this problem with adjustments that the stock tierods do not have.

 

Here's a better picture showing the left one set equal to a stock outer tierod/ and the right one fully adjusted down showing its full range of correction.

Also not the difference to the aftermarket Hotchkis sleeves(only) in upper left of the picture. The Baer units replace the sleeve and outer tierod.

 

i dont see how those tie rod ends could possibly be any better than the stock ones.

This is a very good education, then.
Ya looking at some of the best suspension options out there, for any "ride", including our 3rd Gen V-6's.

Koni no longer Koni Red?
HOW DARE THEY!

 

What kind of springs are you using on your V6 car? Since there are no lowering springs made for our cars.

 

Can't remember for certain what brand but they started out life as an 800# linear rate spring (that part I do remember). I had tried a few different combos in this car. Alot of springs I had lying around from my racecar but I think I ended up buying these after trying two different combos I had. Then of course I trimmed them to my desired ride height (which also took 2 or 3 tries)till it sat as low as I wanted. Trimming bumped up the rate to somewhere around 810-825#'s is my guess. That was 8 or 10 yrs ago. Most V8 aftermarket springs are around 750# from what I've read, and stock ranges from 550-650 based on options. I don't know what the stock V6 spring rate is.

 

Yeah, No sh*t, I feel the same exact way I was tempted to paint them and stick some traditional Koni stickers on them, but the "reds" they make now days are Koni's inferior product. Times are changing and were showing our ages.

 

I have a Set of v6 lowering springs by suspension techniques has a nice drop 1 inch but its actualy a little more cost 200 dollars from www.SHOX.com and im sure they still make them i got them i think back in december.

 

Update photo:

 

-

 

really cool stuff you got there Agood2.8! I bet it does truly corner like its on rails! :hail:

Most of us will never be that involved with or demand that much performance from our suspension systems. For those that really love high speed cornering and better control, it's good to know there is a lot available for these cars.

 

Where did you get your rotors from??? They look exactly like mine i go tmine form Racepars on ebay was 100 bucks for both. Autozone sells a set for our car but its slotted and drilled 140.00 for both.

 

Fronts are Powerslots- aprox $88 each(Excellent quality- I put them on a lath to check them and were machined perfect. That is rare to find even with any brand new rotor) Rears are Stillen Crossdrilled- aprox $79 each?(no slots) They need turning even new as do most) I use drilled in the rear for a better initial bite in the rear as opposed to the front- better chassis control that way( I'm giving all my driving secrets away)

 

are those stock rims?
if they are, they look pretty damn good