my car randomly dies when it is at idle...stop sign, changing from R to D, just started...whenever. Sometimes when I try to start it it also acts like the battery is completely dead....I turn to crank it and nothing happens. I'm thinking that could be a result of the security chip in the key being loose, but I don't really know. I'm thinking the problem is electrical, but this engine also has a valve problem.
It died 3 times this morning alone, so I am getting sort of frustrated, but one of the times it died and restarted all by itself...(probably over the span of less than a second)

Any ideas?

 

A few things come to mind...

1. The VATS (security chip), but that shouldn't affect random stalling

2. Bad MAF sensor

3. Bad ignition switch at the base of the column; causing the car to turn off/on randomly

4. Bad wires between the coil and distributor

Anyone else got an idea?

 

forgot to mention before, the car hesitates when i hit the gas.

I disconnected my MAF sensor a minute ago and aside from the idiot light coming on, the way the car was running didn't change at all...if anything it ran a little better....

the wires were just replaced in like november, so the coil to distributor thing is doubtful.

how can i check the ignition switch

 

Er, I don't think I made myself clear. When i said...

...I meant the HARNESS wires. Not the coil wire. If you look at your spark coil, you'll see two connectors on it; one gray, and one black. The gray connector goes to your ignition switch, and supplies the ignition system with power. The black connector goes to the distributor, and that's how your coil gets the signal to "give me a spark!" from the distributor, via the ignition module.

If the car ran better with the MAF unplugged, that usually means the MAF is bad. I typed up full MAF diagnosis here: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=156516

Hesitation when hitting the gas could also be a tuneup problem. Were only the wires and plugs and air filter replaced? Or was the whole major tuneup performed? You should be able to find info about my major tuneup by doing a search on the v6 forum.

 

it was plugs, wires, complete distributor, and air filters

 

$$ on a bad maf...

 

the money isn't bad....i'm plannin on spendin about 1G for my new engine so another 70 isn't too bad. However, I don't get the SES light , and when I tap on the MAF sensor, nothing happens. When I unplug it, the revs raise a bit and I smell a little more gas fumes, but it seems like its running better. The engine also has very low compression in two cylinders, could that be the problem also?

I jsut want to make sure that it is the maf before i buy a new one

 

er... sorry... i meant i was betting $$ on the maf being bad

 

oh lol

 

well the maf sensor didn't do it....would having half a quart too much oil in it do that.

 

Turning to crank and not getting diddly crap is your VATs system tripping. Mine did it all the time. Lemme guess...5 mins later it'll start no problems, but if you try a few times after the no-start without waiting long enough, you get nothing right?

Stalling is a separate problem. I'd bet money that it's one of two things.

1) IAC valve sticking/acting up. Remove the sucker and clean it...if it's too bad or nothing changes, and you've tried #2 on here, replace it.
2) Fuel filter. Could be fuel starvation. Mine used to stall when I was slowing down for stop signs and such..basically, when the rpms went down too quick..it clogged and couldn't get fuel.

Both of these are cheap and easy.....well, the fuel filter might ba a tad tricky..

About the oil...no biggie. 1/2 quart is nothing. Engine won't know the difference. Shops typically overfill engines by 1/2 quart actually...if you ever have an oil change somewhere (which I dont advise......) you'll notice almost every time that there's 1/2 quart or so too much in it when they're done. Most that'll happen is maybe a psi or two of extra oil pressure. Whoopty doo.

 

Umm...whats an IAC valve, and I went to the local autozone today, and guess what..no fuel filters..got try again later i guess.

 

This is a photo of a 3.1 engine..on a 2.8 the IAC valve is in the same location but it sticks out of the back instead of the side. IAC stands for Idle Air Control. The computer opens and closes the IAC valve depending on throttle/driving conditions, such as cruise, acceleration, deceleration, etc. The IAC gets covered in carbon and gunk after a while, which gets onto the valve and spring, and slows its ability to open and close quickly. When the valve can't open and close as quick as the car needs it to, this generally results in stalling, or almost-stalls. Easiest solution is to remove it and clean it thoroughly with some throttle body cleaner...just avoid accidentally releasing the 'pintle' that is held down by the spring. The tension on that sucker is so high that if you do, that thing will enter orbit never to be seen again. Make sure the o-ring is intact when you replace it. The 3.1, you have to remove 2 Torx screws to get to it. The 2.8 shouldn't be too much different.