Normally, I would take the time to do the searching and work it out myself, but I actually need to drive the car on Wednesday, so now I only have 1 day left to finish up the removal...

Here's where I'm at:

* Pump is removed.
* Bracket is removed and ground cable reattached.
* Vacuum control line capped at the T fitting behind/below the intake right behind the TB.

Now, what I didn't realize before diving into this seemingly simple mod, was that there are TWO 5/8" (or 3/4") rubber couplers at the back of the pump, AND a two-wire connector!

I see that the upper pipe travels behind the engine, over the bell housing, and splits into the three air tubes on the driver's side exhaust manifold.

The lower hose connected the pump to a metal cannister, about the diameter of a soda can, and half the height. This is the air inlet, right?

I plan on removing the upper hose/pipe assembly, and installing pipe plugs into the manifold. Should I use brass, bronze, steel or stainless steel plugs? I'm not really a metallurgist, so I don't know off the top of my head what metals react with each other, and which metals gall easily.

Is the lower hose/cannister assembly to be removed, or do I leave it where it is and ignore it, and what issues have I created by disconnecting the connector from what I assume is a vacuum solenoid? Will the ECU spit a code at me, or do I need to just fill the connector with dielectric grease, and tie it up out of harm's way under the hood?

Thanks in advance for your help!

PS, If my descriptions are not detailed enough, I can take pics if needed...

 

Arrrrgh! The plot worsens... Since the air fittings have been in the exhaust manifold since mid-1985... They're not in a hurry to come out... Any tips besides a flare wrench and penetrating oil?

 

cut crimp and weld them thats what i did when i had the 305 in my car but i got most of them out only had to do that to a few

 

let them soak over night, then add Map gas (kind of like propane, only hotter flame- for those who dont know what map gas is) It may catch fire slightly because of the penetrating oil residue so be cautioous and expect it- also wear good gloves so you can handle thing with the heat.

Same thing applies to the O2 sensor. You heat things up to normal running temps and they unscrew much easier.

 

I just PB Blaster'd my AIR pipes (those 3 tubes) and let them soak about 2 hours

Came out easy with a line wrench.

I used brass plugs.

 

Brass... Good, thank you! I'm soaking the fittings as we speak with Liquid Wrench.

So, what is the function of the metal cannister that is hanging out under the passenger side exhaust manifold? I cannot see under the manifold at this time, and feeling around, I cannot find anything that it connects to...

Also, will unplugging the air pump throw a code?

 

I'm not sure about that metal canister. I'll go see if I left it in my car... I doubt it tho. Excess weight!

As for the codes? Haven't thrown a code yet, even with the EGR pulled out. Kind of strange... but no complaints!

 

So I assume the 2-pin harness energizes a vacuum control solenoid, right? (Still soaking the fittings with LW... )

Does anyone have a theory of operations for the smog pump system? I'm curious as to what logic rules it follows...

 

Broke a 9/16" combo wrench...

Hex is out of round on the fitting...

Still spraying LW...

Will get Vice-Grips and a torch soon...

 

Screw the LW. Go to any auto store, and get PB Blaster. It is Liquid Gold.

 

Torch & Vice-Grips = Mangled fitting...

(Need to find PB Blaster...)

I removed all other pump related hoses and pipes. Disconnected 3-way collector from pipe. Will go to hardware store to get cap for threaded end of pipe for the time being...

 

Alright... I'm done with it for now... I enjoyed how well it ran today in the cool air so much, that I got busted for smoking the tires leaving from work...



2 points and $120 later...

I got a pipe cap and some high-temp compound, and here's how it will sit for a while before I get to pulling the tubes out...

 

Honestly, I'd leave that manifold like it is there. TomP said there's actually a restrictive donut inside the manifold (where the exhaust flange bolts to it) but i haven't had a set off to look yet. Get a set from the boneyard (heck, I'm getting heads and manifolds for $70!) then hog them out! Replace yours, and not only will the AIR be totally gone, but you'll have some better manifold breathing = more power!

 

Heh heh heh... More power = More points on license... (See above, or here ---> http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=776772

That is a good idea, though... Unfortunately, I fear touching the exhaust manifold bolts that have been there for 18 years...