OMFG, this is the worst me and my uncle have ever seen. (uncle has been a mechanic for over 30 years)

I took off the valve covers, and there was quite abit of Oil Cokeing in there, i do not know how the engine still even runs!

Took of the Intake, OMG!!!!!!!!! the whole **** is covered in rubbery oil. In some spots its almost a half inch thick.

Should i just go ahead, pull the engine, get a stroker engine kit, clean it up and rebuild it?

I was getting ready to pull the heads to see what the piston/block conditions are like. Then i thought it would probably be easier just to pull the damn engine and work from there.

Besides, dont you need to pull the engine to install a better Torque Converter? (unless you want to cut a hole in your floorpan)

The old owner must not have EVER changed the oil, or something. This is very bad.

 

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Two options that I can see ...

1) Research how much it would cost to clean and rebuild with new parts and then compare that with a new crate engine or new "used" engine from ebay or some other location.

2)Total rebuild including an acid bath and new inner parts. Remove as much grease as possible before thinking of giving it an acid bath and buying the parts.
There may be cracks or defects on the block that maybe the cause to the slug.
I had a simmular problem but I knew what the problems was ... pistion #4 went bye-bye along with the rings push rod and arm. All because of a little tear in the head gasket.

 

ok well i got the heads almost perfectly clean. Its a miracle what a screw driver + Carb Cleaner + Oven Cleaner + Best freind can do.

It looks pretty good now, unfortunatly its dark out where i live and my camera doesnt work good in low light.

I cant figure out how to get the valve springs off... my Haynes manual does not say how to get them off, so some pointers would be greatly appriciated.

 

looks like fun man, lol. it looks like someone ran pennzoil or quaker state and didnt change it very much. its crazy what can happen when you use a parafin wax based oil and dont change it very much.

 

oh the valve springs, you need a valve spring compressor, then you can get the retainers and all that fun stuff off.

 

Pull the engine apart, check all teh clearances, and rebuild it man.

Nothing big involved, and Autozone will rent like 99% of the tools you need!

 

fast way to clean an engine is to take it to your local self service car wash, make sure it is equipt for engine cleaning, or rent a pressure washer. If you can find one get a pressure steam cleaner, they are the best cleaners.

 

meh, i will check clearance after it breaks.

I need a good reason to get a 3.4 anyways.

 

Shoot, that ain't bad. Pulled the intake off of a '79 302 Ford once and there was a perfect imprint of the bottom of the intake in the sludge built up in the lifter valley. Cleaned right up after a trip to the machine shop hot tank. I machined that block and saran wrapped it as a spare in case I blew the one I was running.


You don't have to pull the motor to change the converter. It's easier(to me anyway) to put the car up on all for corners and pull the tranny and slide it back. But it looks like in this case you did the right thing. I work part time for the Auto Zone here in town and we've got an SBC crate motor core waiting to go back that has almost as much sludge as the one you got.