67 Camaro 88

near the coil...

some vaccum lines busted on it and wanting to replace it

88 Camaro... mpfi car

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Now, I am not sure of this, but on my hood decal, there are two vacuum things in that position. One is the Electronic Vacuum Regulator Valve (EVRV), and the other one is a vacuum switch. Since the wire loom connects to the box in your hand, I would assume that is the vacuum switch, and the part hanging off of that by the two wires, since it has two different sized vacuum lines on it, has to be the regulator valve. I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong...

Project: 85 2.8 bird

that, according to my service manual, which is home right now, is a manifold charge sensor. If you go to AZ, schleo boyz, trash auto, or nappy, it is called a MAP sensor. I think mine got seriously fried that woeful night, and costs about $50 to replace. That vacuum lead was half melted off.

Edit: I believe it's all hooked up into the egr cicuit.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I get what you are saying, but doesn't the MAF sensor perform the same function? Why would GM put two sensors in for the same thing?

FAST RS

The MAp sensoer was used in 90-92 3.1 engines insted of a MAF both do the same thing but i herd that MAP is more accurate.

67 Camaro 88

I went to Advanced Auto Parts and showed it to them... they found it on the computer by picture and its an 'EGR Vaccum Solenoid'

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...e=1420&PTSet=A

$91.49 and wait a day... guess Im going to have to make a trip to the junkyard.

Unless I can just kill it all together.... it says it is emissions.... is there anyway to just do away with it all together?

-Bud

Project: 85 2.8 bird

The cylinder is the egr solinoid, & the box appears to just seems to be called control circuitry.

edit: yup, the box is what got cooked. $68 @ Autozone,

TomP

Yep, that's 2 out of 3 parts of the vacuum operated EGR system.

The black box with the 4-pin connector is the connection between the computer and the EGR system. The computer sends it a signal to energize the EGR solenoid. Then the box provides feedback for the ECM to say "yes, I see a vacuum signal, so the EGR did turn on."

This is why a crack in the vacuum lines between the EGR solenoid, vacuum diagnostic switch, and EGR valve itself could throw an EGR code. The three are linked. If the solenoid powers up to apply vacuum to the EGR valve, but the switch doesn't see vacuum (from it's one vacuum line input), a code gets thrown.

There's a removable filter on the back of that EGR solenoid, by the way. See where the two wires enter the solenoid? See the black end of the solenoid that curves around the two wires? Pull it straight back and off. That's the filter. Supposedly it should be changed every 25,000 miles- but good luck finding it anywhere. Only way to get one (from what I was told years ago by a GM Dealer) is to buy a new solenoid.

camaro_junkie

EGR solenoid and control circuitry. Mine was all erratic. When I tested it according to the service manual, it passed the test sometimes and not others, so I replaced it to the tune of $85 with an employee discount (that's Canadian bucks).

JoshDT91

iTrader: (1)

Alright there is no need to go to the junk yard. I bought one of those and last time I checked GMpartsdirect.com it was $65.92 and it comes with everything you showed in the picture there. The part number for my 88 2.8L LB8 engine was #14089438 you will want to check to see if it's the same.

Kevin S

If it is just the vacuum lines that are broke I can tell ya a quick fix to save you the $$$$$!!!

The solenoid has 3 vacuum lines connected to it.

At the end of the "noid" you have 2 prongs for the vacuum lines. One of those prongs has a side prong for the control box. Basically the control box is there just to monitor if vacuum is present so the system will work properly.

According to the view of your noid the plug with the side port has broken off. Right?

If so, you can use a 3 way spliter to fix this. The vacuum line that comes from the TB to this unit connects to that port. Plug the hole from the broken port with what ever you can find.

I used an extra parts tree from a 1/24 plastic model and a lighter to drip the molten plastic over the hole.

Take a small section of vacuum line about 2 inches or less long and place it on the side port of the noid. Then place your 3 way splitter into the end of that line. Next connect a piece of vacuum line to the 2nd end of your splitter to the control box. Finally connect the 3rd end of the splitter to the vacuum line that comes from the TB.

With this done connect the other port from the noid to the EGR valve. Boom your done!

When mine broke, it was the side port that had broken off. After my quick fix here and 3 years later I have had no EGR codes or any other problems associated with this come up.

It may not be the prettiest thing you have ever seen,but it will save you $$$ and if you do it to keep it clean, only you will notice it.

Gumby

You say that like money grows on tree's??? If you have extra, send it my way.

Id go junk yard hunting too rather then spend $75

Matt

67 Camaro 88

Well we'd made a trip to the junk yard yesterday and got the stuff for 5 bucks. I didnt get codes before, but I wanted to make it good again since the stuff that was used to fix the busted lines before (some type of liquid stuff that hardened) busted up. I put the new EGR stuffs on it and ran it last night and I still don't get any codes after I cranked it and let it idle.

...still havent driven the car after the 3.4 swap.... it's running a little rough, not bad... just want to fix it 100% before we drive it. Was hoping the busted vaccum lines had something to do with it. Time to go outside and mess with it.

Thanks for the suggestions


-Bud

Project: 85 2.8 bird

When you're done, drive it over my way & we can get mine to run right again. Rt 70 to Dayton

JoshDT91

iTrader: (1)

Gumby, you mean you don't have a money tree? Gosh I thought everyone had one. But really at least with me I go with a new part whenever I can afford it and whenever it's available.

funstick

gentle man. best piece of advice i can give is the following. swap to teh later 90 and up 3.1 intake. swap the TB iac and TPS connectors as well. yes the IAC tube going to the back of the intake plenum on the 2.8 85-89 MAF setups will cuase all kinds of annooying vacum leaks that will drive you crazy !!!!! trust me ive been down this road before this will fix your woes. either that or if you swapped in a 3.4 and didnt reuse the original 2.8 injectors your now flooding the engine with fuel.

only the upper plenum off the 3.1. then block off all the BS on the back of that old lower manifold port except for the PCV and valve cover breather

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

i just replaced the vacuum solenoid on mine a couple weeks ago. that was bad and i had a plugged vacuum line going to the solenoid. $100 later and im on the road w/o a bright orange light staring me in the face.

Damien00677

Mine broke the same way everyone else's did about a year ago....the third tube snapped off. I swear I paid under $40 at autozone...I'll try to find the reciept tonight...that was a long time ago though. Maybe it was remanned? Or maybe I just got lucky with a mismarked item.