How far on is it supposed to be, with my '85 engine, i have the oil pan with the 2 bolts in front and the lip that sticks out. I don't want it touching, but I'll have problems if it isn't on far enough right?
Also is there a good way to stop the engine from turning and get the proper amount of torque on the bolt?

 

How I've done mine twice.
Go get a balancer repair sleeve, for four dollars from parts store. Use it.
Start balancer on the snout. Tap on with hammer (TAP!), insert the bolt, tighten until no more bolt movement, tap more on balancer, tighten bolt, repeat until the bolt for balancer no longer turns.
Should be using Red RTV on bolt for making sure bolt doesn't back out.

 

In order to torque those bolts on without rotating the engine over, go to the hardware store and buy a few feet of synthetic rope that is small enough of a diameter to easily slide into a spark plug hole.

Rotate the crank until the piston is at bottom dead center and insert the rope into the hole until full.

Then crank the bolt in the desired direction until it is properly torqued. The rope wont let the piston compress.

Then simply rotate it slightly the other direction and pull the rope out...

Works for me...

Jay

 

Be aware that if you use the crankshaft's center bolt to install the balancer, you could snap the bolt and ruin the threads in the snout of the crankshaft.

That's how I broke my center bolt; minus the hammer tappings.

So just be careful.

 

Tom,
Your experience is why I said "TAP!" the balancer (a solid rap at top & then bottom) & tighten the bolt at the same time.
THOUGH IT CAN BE DONE, I don't feel it is wise to install a balancer by using JUST the balancer bolt

 

Tapping at the extreme top and bottom of the balancer can also destroy the balancer if the rubber inertia ring between the center hub and outer ring is damaged... I'm not arguing, just giving warnings,that's all.

 

Thanks guys, the tapping and hammering worked best for me since I was unable to find a threaded rod since I had already screwed up my threads, when I pulled the crankshaft timing sprocket, and had retapped them already.

 

Tapping at the extreme top and bottom of the balancer can also destroy the balancer if the rubber inertia ring between the center hub and outer ring is damaged... I'm not arguing, just giving warnings,that's all.

Very True!

I also figure that you'd know your balancer is history when it's in your hands.
When the balancer is in your hands you can easily determine if a hammer tap will secure it on the crank or it should become a 12 Gauge ShotGun flying target!
One cannot save an old balancer when the rubber is sticking out of it.
IF your 2.8 balancer is bad, I know of a new, used one available!