First off, is there any word on the headers that are in the works...like when and how much, and will there be a y-pipe?

I think I remember reading that the 3.4 manifolds and y-pipe will fit from a 4th gen. I have never seen the 3.4 manifolds, but I am willing to guess that they have the same tapering style where it connects to the heads and where it connects to the exhaust dounut. Can you dremel all that tapering off so theres less restriction?

Also does anybody have an idea how much difference we would FEEL between the 3.4 manifolds and headers.

 

Hey, lick on the very first sticky post above! Where it says "header group purchase". Just e mail the guy for more info
and what's available!

For me, personally, it's not worth the $500 or so dollars for stainless steel headers and y pipe. I know that there's only one place making them custom ( hence the hefty price tag), so it will be hard to get them, especially if they are not making them anymore.

You could modify your existing manifolds by porting the
restrictive areas and such. Then just go to a custom exhaust
shop and have them make a high flow,mendrel bent Y pipe.
It should be no more than $200 to make that Y pipe! If you
are attempting to remove the manifolds yourself, good luck!
Some of those manifold bolts will break off in the bolt holes!
Meaning that be have become frozen to the head! It's not an
easy removal job! It's a pain to access them, especially the
passenger side!

 

It was easy enough to get the bolts out when I swapped engines, shouldn't be too hard now. What I was wondering was if the 3.4 manifolds flow significantly more.

If I'm spending 200 on a y-pipe...I might as well get the whole set for 500

Is the y-pipe more of the problem or are the manifolds more of a problem?

 

Question 1 Yes, the 3.4 exhuast manifolds are better. Question 2, the 3rdgen y pipe and converter are very restrictive. You will be far better off replacing your componets with 4thgen components.

Headers a a good y pipe will outflow both setups if thats an option for you.

 

I was referring to if you were doing them with the motor
in the car. Anyways, yeah, get the custom headers and
Y pipe. You could get a high flow cat as well, since you
are already in there. I would personally buy a good high
quality converter like Dynomax or Magnaflow. Or, don't
run one at all, just a straight pipe!

The y pipe isn't really that bad. Just again, you may
encounter frozen bolts. It's common to happen!

 

Don't give up on the street legal headers from PaceSetter.
I plan on taking a trip to Phoenix very soon.
My house for sale is almost complete & I need a rest.
IF ya want something done, do it yourself!

Beg to differ but the 3.4 exhaut manifolds are virtually identical to the 2.8/3.1, even the carb'd 2.8.
ONLY diff is two points.
3.4 manifolds have the EGR on each log
and
logs covered with a tin shield/exhaust gasket.
I know.
I've got two sets & one set on the Firebird, now, as they mate to the 3rd gen exhaust, perfectly.

The street legal headers from PaceSetter will include a "Y" pipe as part of the package.

Contact Mr. Fred Gerle at PaceSetter for more information.
fgerle@pacesetterexhaust.com

ALWAYS SUPPORT DESIRE TO PURCHASE STREET LEGAL PARTS FOR OUR 60*V6!
The MORE voices heard, the better the chance this will be happening.
We had a guy arranged in Phoenix area & he flaked, oh well!
Make sure your "I" Pipe is 2 1/2" or close to it.
Factory is 2 1/4" which is good, if the pipe is in good shape.

 

I jsut got my doynomax cat back exhaust installed and I can notice a little bit of difference but not that much. I guess when the headers from pace setter come out I will buy those and get a ypipe made or make it myself.

 

Not too much to port on the exhaust manifolds... yeah there's some restrictions but the casting wall is somewhat thin. To remove the restrictions completely, you'd be making those walls very thin.

Look at the donuts between the manifold outlet and y-pipe inlet. There's a sharp ridge in the middle of those donuts. Looks like GM bored them from each end, one with a larger bore, one with a smaller bore. Remove the ridge with a round metal file (as opposed to a wood file), then polish the deep scratches out with either a die grinder or sandpaper.

I was removing the ridge with my die grinder, but it was taking forever. Bolting the donuts into the vise and using the file was much faster.