Anyone got a part number for the little C-Clips that hold the injectors into the fuel rail? I seem to have broken one. Lovely.

 

I think thats going to be a j-y item

GM direct doesnt show it, neither does orileys or autozone on their sites.

Maybe someone here has an extra rail laying around that will be willing to donte to dowards n yours project.

 

Autozone had it! PN 800-9411, it was in the spot for 800-9417 though.

Ask for 9411, if no go, try 9417. Mine were a package of 8 in box # 9411.

 

Those clips aren't needed. Just there for assymbly purposes. The tightness of the o-rings & the bolts holding the fuel rail to the middle manifold are sufficient enough to keep a good seal.

 

Uh... ok... yeah..

So explain why the injector was pushed out of the rail, and fuel went everywhere, then?

Seriously, you need those clips!

 

crapped out o-rings

edit: how much of a bytch ws it to get that damm\ned fuel rail oout even w/those clips in the open position & bolts out, let alone just pulling the rail w/the clips in teh closed position?

I know mine was a pain

 

I feed on strange info and I think he is right. I clearly remember hearing that on one of the TNN weekend car shows. But it may not be all car or this kind, i just rememer hearing that before.

Matt

 

You can pull the fuel rail out, with the fuel injector still in the base manifold.

Like so -

1) Disconnect negative battery terminal ()
2) Remove upper plenum
3) Unplug all fuel injectors, and unbolt the 2 bolts holding the harness in place - pull it back, out of the way
4) Remove both fuel lines from side of the fuel rail, as well as line on the driver's side.
5) unbolt the two bolts on the passanger side holding the rail in place (on a side now, it was a driver's side injector that broke free)
6) Pull up on fuel rail. Is it hard to get out? I used a 3/8ths 10" extension to 'pry' it up, but it pops out with no problem.

The clips hold the injectors in place in the fuel rail. Can you run without them? I suppose. Would you want to be the guy driving if an injector pops free, spewing fuel all over a nice, hot engine?

Heh... you, too? :lala:

 

With my luck about 3 days down the road they would vibrate out!

I have horriable luck with O-rings. I have had to replace the o-ring in the ditributor 3 times in the past year. This last time I finally made a gasket for it and now no more problems. O-rings suck. when they heat up they get soft and brittle really fast. they should only be used to help seal not to hold the part in place.

 

First of all Doward, you forgot a step. You forgot to mention relieving the fuel system pressure. Second of all, disconnect the negative battery cable? What sucker does that? I would love to start a fire on my engine!

Now for my question. When you do stuff such as plenum removal, throttle body removal, water pump removal, etc., when you put it back together (with a new gasket, of course), do you generally also use some sort of liquid sealant with the gasket? If so, what kind do you use? I had some liquid gasket that I used when I reinstalled my shift lever onto the trans.

 

Gaskacinch(sp?) baby!!! I use that on everything. It rocks. Just look for the can with a chick in a dress on the side. White label, red logo.

 

Good deal, I didnt see them on the site, but that doesnt/didnt mean they had them

How much was cost?? I almost rather have some new ones if they were cheap. I've bent a few!!


Now get that car running

 

injector clips are $.99 apiece.

I only needed one

Yeah, forget to relieve the fuel pressure.. ah hell, it's ok - it'll be relieved when you open that fuel line up (Disclaimer - do not be like me, and do that. Gas squirts everywhere. I'm.... uh... a professional *cough cough*)

For the intake, no. The stock gaskets are fine, as long as you make sure to sand the gasket surfaces, and be sure they are nice and flat.

Also, torque the bolts in the proper sequence, or you'll risk warping the plenum.

 

By sanding the gasket surfaces, are you referring to cleaning off the old gasket?

And as for the bolts, some bastard already stripped the threads on one corner and replaced it with a thru-bolt and nut.

 

I'm fairly certain he means "take some 400-600 grit sandpaper and make 'em almost as smooth as glass"... as high as 1000 grit if you want to be sure it seals perfectly.. I think anything higher is silly on a gasket surface, though.

 

TechSmurf wins the prize!

With any kind of good build, you want to be absolutely certain of the sealing surfaces.

Truth be told, if you had two perfectly smooth surfaces, you could use a gasket, with no sealer at all. The sealer's purpose is to fill the little nicks and crannies between the two surfaces.

 

two smooth surfaces, you wont need a gasket,

ex:
Factory exahust manifolds on heads. however you almost always need gaskets if they are removed from each other

this one is still screwy to me....... On my old 78 Honda 750, all 4 carbs had no gaskets when I rebuilt/cleaned them. All metal to metal & tighten to spec. Didn't leak though, surprisingly.

 

Well I was curious why you need to sand them since it's not like it's a new part. It was put together with a gasket already, so I would guess that the surface is more or less preped. Anyhow, I would be inclined to used a liquid sealer anyway, as long as there was no problems that could arise from doing so. I just wanted to know how everyone prefers to do it.