What's the status on your gauge cluster swap?

You know you're going to have to write it up in article fashion for those that come after

 

Idjit lights -> full gauges (for me) was simple (except for the fact that the cluster I picked up lacked VSS provisions.. oops). Pull old cluster, pull speedo from old cluster, put speedo in new cluster (wanted to retain original odometer, plus new speedo was ugly), reinstall cluster, replace oil pressure sending unit and replace water temp sending unit... end of story.

Haven't heard of any issues with the warning light -> gauge swap.. previous threads have always cited 'if it doesn't work, it's likely not the cluster's fault.. if the tach doesn't move, treat it as if it always had a gauge cluster with a working tach and the tach just stopped working, etc'

 

Karl has my old cluster & I went to teh full VSS one. I shoulda asked him what milage he wanted it to be whenI adjusted the "new" one for mine.

 

What exactly are idiot lights?

 

Instead of having gauges showing the amount of volts, erl pressure & water temp, there are jsut a bunch of warning lights that come in to let your know the shizz has already hit the fan.

 

Ah the idiot light cluster. I apply renamed mine the, too late waringing cluster. Short story, 85 overheated, 240ish or higher degrees, cracked both heads, blew both gaskets, and broke the crank in half !!! Moral of the story is, I went to the junkyard and got a real gauge cluster with actual readouts so I know whats going on with the engine.

ah the ignorance of being 16 and not knowing a single thing about cars. Wish I knew about the idiot lights when I bought the 85. Ah well, because of that my car is what it is now because of the engine dying.

 

I don't worry about the "Service Engine Soon" light until it changes to "Service Engine Now".

 

when my check engine lite comes on i get out of the car, go open the hood, look in and see that the engine is still there so im ok.

 

Hey!
I haven't had the moments for which to accomplish that mission, YET!
I'm about to post a new topic for my current mission.
My main gauge swap drawback is know which wire on idiot light plug block to swap around to activate, correctly, all gauges.
Last time I tried a direct gauge dash plug in I had fuse failure.
I recently figured out exactly which wire for using to install the electric power driver seat I scored.
I still need to figure out the dash set up for the electric truck release opening motor I also have scored.
I also scored next to new A USED TAN CARPET for ONLY $30!
ALOT OF PROJECTS depend on when this next house rebuild (my latest purchase) starts.
Right now I'mm booking on finishing the Blazer 2->3.4 Swap Boogie project so I can beat up on that truck instead of the Firebird.

For my guage swap, I have the electrical block plug at end result (a gauge package dash). I need see what the IDIOT LIGHT block plug looks like before the Gauge swap.
AND I ALSO need install my new speedo cable to eliminate speedo flutter which affects my tranny lock up function.
So much to do in a very short amont of time.
PS THE GAUGE DASH YOU SENT ME IS BEAUTIFUL
MANY THANKS AGAIN!
Coulda used that spoiler! I finally figured out my repaint scheme & how it incorporates that rear Firebird spoiler.

 

Your welcome, I had to throw my spoiler in on the trade to get the new one. But I have seen about 50 or so of the spoilers on e-bay starting for like $10.

 

THAT IS A VERY TEMPTING REPLY!!!!
What I just did was get my Blazer started.
Went for a very short drive. No power (ignition, advancing) and maybe too much fuel, too.
I need add in the fuel bypass on this fuel pump arrangement on Blazer. The factory bypass fuel return line is there, need to utilize it, to decrease the constant electric pump pressure.
WISH I COULD GET a fuel line sized "T", metal, not plastic.
One problem I did have...TOO LOW ON FUEL TO START 3.4 BLAZER! But the gauge reads that I have a 1/4 tank.....

ON THE FIREBIRD GUAGE SWAP WIRING....
ARE ALL the correct wires, on the idiot light wiring block?
In end, I only need find a "White-tach" wire, move that idiot light "spot" to the "correct guage" spot on the same wire block that plugs into the dash.
I understand, the "rest" of wires, are correcct. It's only utilizing the "gauge" sensors, instead of "illumination" sensors, in water & oil spots on engine.