WHich pins on a '91 Camaro RS do you connect at the ALDL to lock up the TCC? I'm not sure mine's woking and this is a way to test it.

Eric

 

Not sure if a 91 is the same as mine but you should be able to tell if its working while you drive it. Mine locks up between 30 and 40. Feels almost like a gear change.

 

That's the thing- I can't feel it, and if I could connect the two wires with a toggle switch it would tell me if there was a problem in my tranny with the solenoid or pressure switch.

Can't believe nobody likes my new tatt!

Eric

 

I dont have an suto so i cant help ya with the TCC but nice tattoo man

 

You want TCC lockup, jumper the uppermost left (TCC) to the uppermost right (ground).

You'll feel a "super-shift" as soon as your car shifts out of 1st.

 

I'll say it cause nobody else did: THAT IS THE COOLEST TAT I HAVE EVER SEEN!!!! All I ever see is tribal crap nowadays, nice that there's some originality left in the world.:rockon:

 

Love the tat. I had to design my own to get something other than the tribal crap or a flaming skull. Great to actually see some other real artwork out there. Hope your RS is looking just as good.

 

I still dont understand this TC lockup crap.

Should I try auto-x racing with this thing activated?

 

Can the transmission still shift with the TQ locked up?

I was thinking about this one time, it would deffinatly help increase the transmission effeciency.

 

It *could* shift with the TCC locked.. or you *could* go autocrossing with it manually locked up.. but I wouldn't reccomend it.. likely toast the TCC right there. It's not designed to handle loads, hence why it only locks when cruising. If it could be locked more than it is without frying it, GM would have set it up to be so, for the sake of improving milage ratings.

 

transmissions confuse me

 

:werd:

 

the TCC is just a small clutch designed to mechanically couple the pump/impeller and turbine of the torque converter, which reduces heat generated by fluid shear within the torque converter and helps prevent the transmission from overheating. As a side effect, it also improves the efficiency of the torque converter (by turning it into not-a-torque converer).. the heat of the fluid shear has to be generated by using power, right? That was power that wasn't reaching the input shaft of the transmission. Wasted power = wasted fuel.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

 

Well; I wouldn't say it's completely small. The pressure plate (convertor clutch disk) is almost the same size as the convertor's cover. The convertor goes into lockup when the TCC solenoid engages. The TCC solenoid re-routes the fluid inside the tranny's input shaft, and a second set of splines (on the input shaft) is engaged. This re-routed fluid goes between the pressure plate and the turbine (instead of between the turbine and the stator). The pressure plate gets forced against the TC housing, and bingo, you're in mechanical lockup.

On the second page of that link TechSmurf provided, it shows a normal torque convertor attached to a flywheel. Our lockup convertors would be assembled like: flywheel, housing cover, pressure plate, turbine, stator, pump. The pressure plate and turbine actually share a set of splines. From an "inside-out" point of view- the input shaft is in the middle, then it's the turbine splines, then it's the pressure plate splines.

Yep the trans can shift no problem with the TCC in lockup; in fact, it does it all the time! TCC engages when road speed is around 35-40 mph, usually in 3rd gear. It's mechanically impossible for the TCC to engage in 1st gear due to the way fluid is routed inside the trans.

When you install a manual lockup switch for drag racing, as soon as the trans shifts into second, the TCC goes into lockup. That's why you'll feel a "super shift"- you're both shifting into second AND going into lockup at the same time. And yes, it's hard on the trans. Once you're in lockup though, you're in lockup- it's banging into lockup that could eventually cause damage.

Plus too, the TCC normally releases when it's not needed- remember with a mechanical coupling, if the car slows down, so does the motor- just like in a car with a real clutch. On our cars, if you let off the gas, the TCC will disengage so the motor can "freewheel". With the TCC forced into lockup, the engine will slow down as the car slows down.

In -fact-, this is how you know your TCC solenoid is sticking (and should be replaced). You get the following scenario: Car drives great when cold. As you're driving, the car warms up, and you go above 35-40 MPH. Eventually, you slow down and come to a stop- and the car stalls. The car starts up again without any problems, and it's good until you go above 40 mph and then come to a stop. What's happening is the TCC isn't releasing when you come to a stop. BUT, when you start the car up again, remember it's impossible for the TCC to be in lockup in 1st gear- the TCC releases (no fluid), and you're good again until the TCC does lock up. This is even a problem on the 3-speed automatics found in the a-bodies... they had a TCC also... but I'll be damned if I can remember the model # of their trans. Something like a 3T40? Ugh. Oh well, not important as far as f-bodies go

Hope that helped everyone understand it a bit more!

 

Thanks! I wanted that for awhile, the initially I wanted the wrench crossing the conrod- anyway I had to leave a deposit so the guy would draw it and then make an appointment.
When I came for the appointment he had drawn what I got as well as he thought it looked better- I agreed, it came out better than I imagined. It's a .030" TRW forged slug and rod from a 400 I tore down and the wrenches are 18mm Snap-Ons.

Yeah, when someone shows me a "tribal" armband tatt or whatever I always ask "What tribe?"

The artist said it was one of the most fun pieces he'd done in a long time.

NOW as far as the torque coverter lockup, I now know how to test it- I will rig a toggle switch.

And kudos to 'Smurf and the ubiqutous TomP for the tech explanations!

Eric