been thinkin hard and long
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Joined: May 2004
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From: South Central Los Scandolus, CA
Car: 89 camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6
Transmission: 700R4
been thinkin hard and long
ive been thinkin of doing a valve job on the car. never have i done it but im good at learning things. what am i facing here yall? i have no sign of needing it, but my boy told me it will raise the compresion. should i or not?
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Im not 100 percent sure but personaly i dont think new valve seals would raise compression much if any. Putting new rings on shaveing the heads ETC would raise compression. So would different pistons.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Houston
Car: 86 Berlinetta 84 MonteCL
Engine: 3.4 MPFI 3.8 229
Transmission: 700r4 T350
Raising compression
You won't be able to raise compression like that. If you wanna do a valve job, get some 1.8 intake valves and have the valve seats cut to match (with a good multi angle valve job). You can raise compression by having the combustion chambers on the heads welded, expensive though. Another way would be to find some higher compression pistons and go that route. If you must do some head work, I'd have them ported, angle cut the valve seats and add the larger valves. Around my area, this much work would cost close to 700 bux, minus the new valves.
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
if youre planning on doing a valve job yourself. you need a valve grind kit and a drill. its a bit tough your first time. i took an engine performance machining class and almost everyone messed up the "practice" head their first time. youd wanna get one from a junk yard to practice and read up on it before you do it. its not just that easy, at least to my class of 40 automotive students. most of which are great mechanics. but good luck if you decide to!!
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From: Central FL
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
if it doesn't need a valve job, don't do it. its a lot of work just to get the heads off and apart. a valve job will not raise compression, nor will new piston rings. the only things that will raise comp. would be things that take up space on top of the piston/in the combustion chamber.
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
had anyone thought that when he said "raise compression" that he wasn't talking about the compression ratio, but the ability for the cylinder to compress the a/f mixture?
In that case, a valve job can help....if your friend had been checking your car out , say he was leak checking it, and noticed that you were recieving blowby on the exhaust valve, or even the intake valve, then doing the valve job would allow those valves to seat which in essence would raise the "compression" of an engine. Especially in a compression test....
Get this one, we were checking compression on my friends Straight 8 buick last night (car hadn't run for two years, so one project at the shop is to get it movign again) Cylinder 1 had 0 readiable compression, number two was just a tad under 15psi, number 3 had 0, number 4 had 30psi, and 5-8 were all roughly 50 psi.....of course the compression ratio is 7.5:1 anyway, but it's pretty low. We came to the conclusion that 52 years of wear is just about the time for a rebuild, and for that reason we pulled the head and will be pulling the engine soon to follow, along w/ the lil dynaglide.
In that case, a valve job can help....if your friend had been checking your car out , say he was leak checking it, and noticed that you were recieving blowby on the exhaust valve, or even the intake valve, then doing the valve job would allow those valves to seat which in essence would raise the "compression" of an engine. Especially in a compression test....
Get this one, we were checking compression on my friends Straight 8 buick last night (car hadn't run for two years, so one project at the shop is to get it movign again) Cylinder 1 had 0 readiable compression, number two was just a tad under 15psi, number 3 had 0, number 4 had 30psi, and 5-8 were all roughly 50 psi.....of course the compression ratio is 7.5:1 anyway, but it's pretty low. We came to the conclusion that 52 years of wear is just about the time for a rebuild, and for that reason we pulled the head and will be pulling the engine soon to follow, along w/ the lil dynaglide.
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I think it's a good idea to have someone adjust the valves. They don't even need to remove the heads. Just the valve cover.
A friend of mine said his car runs much smoother after he had it done. And his car ran fine before that too.
If the cylinder compression is lower than factory specs, well that's a different problem.
A friend of mine said his car runs much smoother after he had it done. And his car ran fine before that too.
If the cylinder compression is lower than factory specs, well that's a different problem.
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Originally posted by 85f-bird
Get this one, we were checking compression on my friends Straight 8 buick last night (delete part post)....of course the compression ratio is 7.5:1 anyway, (delete part post).
Get this one, we were checking compression on my friends Straight 8 buick last night (delete part post)....of course the compression ratio is 7.5:1 anyway, (delete part post).
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 291
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From: South Central Los Scandolus, CA
Car: 89 camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6
Transmission: 700R4
i really appreciate all the comments. just off of this im learning more about performance good lookin out guys. give me a site i can go 2 about valve jobs.
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