Anyone have problems with this? My car is having a hard tiem starting when it sits for liek an hours, not sure if it could be that. I was told it probably was. But if it sits over night its fine. Starts first turn. Cab leaky valve seals make a car hard to start? Thanks guys

 

An ignition module going bad will start fine when cold, but not function properly when hot. Just a thought!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Brand new. darnit. Rebuilt the dist. last month. I can get that car 230 nice and hot and shut it off for 5 mins and the heat pouring out, then start it, pefect, but its when it sits. I just don't understand it.

 

the CSI's (IIRC) 'fuel add' amount, is controlled by the coolant temperature sensor. What it could be, is that you have (like most cars after 100k+ miles) is injectors that are no longer holding pressure as well as they should. What happens, is that when you first start the car in the morning, the coolant is very cold, and the CSI operates. If your car is off for an hour, the coolany MAY NOT be cool enough for the CSI to operate - that, in combo with the injectors not holding good pressure, can cause you to have to crank the car over for several seconds, before firing it up.

Easy way to check - after the car has say for an hour (when it would be hard to start) turn the key to 'on' and listen for your fuel pump. After 2-3 seconds, it should shut off. The fuel system is now 'primed' Crank the car. Start easier? Injectors are the 'possibly' the problem.

 

Doward:
I have done that. I get the car hott, and shut it off for an hour or so. Turn the key on, wait for pump to stop, and then cranks. The motor cranks about 4 time sometimes 5. IS this alright? Also sometimes has blue smoke come out, i know its valve seals, but could this effect it? Thanks

 

Maybe the oil burning has just fouled your spark plugs?

 

Yeah but it wouldn't start right up when it was cold then. Plus if you keep the rpm high when driving, it cleans the plugs off right? Thanks man

 

2nd part > Not necessarily... 1st part > That IS true....

Ok, so test your injectors for leakdown.. Throw a fuel gauge on it...prime it, see what kinda pressure it gets on one prime. Your goal is full normal pressure...somewhere between 35 and 40 psi I believe. Then start it....see what pressure you get then. Rev the motor smoothly...don't just blip the throttle. That can create a vacuum irregularity and make you think there's a problem with your regulator or something because the pressure is going down instead of up.. As the throttle opens and engine vacuum decreases, your fuel pressure should increase. And as the throttleblade closes, it will dip sharply, and then back to normal as the motor reaches an idle state. Then, shut it off, and watch the gauge carefully. You're looking for any immediate drops. Like, 30 seconds after you shut it off...the needle starts to fall, and continues to fall. Drops like that will indicate leaking injectors...which will flood the motor out over time, and cause hard starting. If this IS the problem, the engine SHOULD fire up quite a bit quicker if you try to start it with the gas pedal to the floor. This will put the ECM in Clear Flood mode, and disable the fuel injectors until the motor starts. This will allow the engine to clear the excess fuel out. Just make sure to get your foot out of it quick.....dont want it to fire right up then rev to 6k...

 

Thanks man, I just have to get a hold of a guage and I will diff do that. The cold start injector would not cause this problem though? I was told they stay open and flood the motor? Thanks

 

How many times does your 2.8 turn over before it starts when its hott and when it cold. Thanks

 

I owned (past tense) a 3.1, which doesnt have the CSI.....so.....somebody else will have to chime in on this. I'm assuming it IS possible, since I'm imagining fuel IS routed to the cold start injector at all times...it's just it is only actually fired in certain situations.

As far as starting....it fired up immediately in pretty much all situations. It was in very good tune though.....

 

Have you looked at the cold start switch mounted in the manifold?

 

If i unplug the wire going to it, if it was leaking, it would still leak right? But if it is sending to much fuel to the engine it could be that?

 

Trickster: What do you mean look at the switch?

 

I mean check the connector, the wiring, and pull the switch and look at it to determine its condition. Here is a picture of it. It is the unit with the pink top, the other unit there is the coolant temp sensor (CTS).

 

I looked at it and it all seems fine with no problems. Nice and clean. If it was leaky injectors would it give me problems weather warm or cold? Thanks for all the help

 

It could, but that doesn't seem to be the problem you are having. You can check this with a fuel pressure gauge.

 

I have to buy myself one of those. Thanks man for all the help

 

I noticed today, did some tests, it doesn't matter when hott or cold i found out. I took it for about a mile ride and then parked it for about 2 hours, then went to start it, engine turned over about 6-8 and then slowing began to run by itself. You guys still think injectors could cause this or in that CSI flooding the motor out? You don't think bad valve seals would do this to me do you? Thanks

 

i had pretty much the exact same problem. the only time it would start fine for me is when it sat over night and was below 40 degrees when i started it the next day. turns out, the injectors were leaking like crazy. got new ones (and a 3.4) and the problem was fixed.

 

Thanks man, I was pricing injectors and they are about $60 for one, so I am going to wait it out a little bit. If i have to, i'm only replacing the ones leaking, thanks again

 

Visit your local yard and find a 3.1 FWD GM ride.
Find nicest looking engine & purchase those.
Test them before installing them with new o rings.
I'm not suggest 3.1 for any performance gain.
The 3.1 are a later engine (1990s) & thus will be of less milage than your 1988 stuff.

 

Yeah but they have to plug right in, or will they be the same? Thanks man

 

PHYSICALLY IDENTICAL!
Wires and everything.
Make sure you gather as many "spare parts" while scouting yards. "o" rings, clips, etc....
In my 3.4 powered ride, I installed the 1995 assembly line issued 3.4 injectors.
They fit perfect in my 2.8 induction system. And yes the 1985 wiring harness connected right back up to later injectors, no fuss.
While you are at it also get the NICEST LOOKING FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.
Take those late model pressure guts & swap into/under your current Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing.
You then just "rebuilt" your pressure regulator.
Yeah I also did this to my 1985 issued 2.8 pressure assembly.
It has the 1995 stuff under it.
NO performance gain, just newer stuff/lower milage stuff.
Always look for the nicest cars, Grandma owned rides! Odds CAN be better in your favor. When ya open the wrecking yard hoods, you'll see.

 

Thanks man. I went down there tonight and there is a 3.4 camaro I think I will strip down. Thanks for all the help

 

FORGET THE INJECTORS
GRAB THE ENGINE!
Serious, swap it in there!
Go have some fun!

 

My 2.8 runs great though. Plus i don't have the time to actaully swap it out. Also i don't knwo if my tranny would hold up.

 

Ya never know how cheap that mill can be unless ya ask.

 

If I get that motor, do I have to change anything else? Does everything plug in though? And there is also a 3.1, does that plug in? Thanks man

 

With a bit of a wiggle & jiggle all those items fit just like what ya removed.
Grab the 3.4 mill & those injectors.
I like the 3.4 injector spray pattern better than pintle style.