Vette Servo
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
Vette Servo
While this is a tranny mod I figured V6 board would be better due to the lack of performance increase.
It took almost 2 days to put in because every bolt for the crossmember broke and even with the sharpest drill bit I could get my hands on it still wasn't really working drilling the bolts out. We ended up cutting the floor so we could get at the bolts. Heated them with a torch, took out the broken studs, ran new ones in and put new bolts over the stock ones to be sure it was staying put. After all the crap I went through there's barely any difference. The only thing I've noticed is when just cruising to speed form a stop you don't notice a shift, the rpms just drop. At WOT there's no difference.
Is there something besides just putting it in I was supposed to do or is it just the lack of power from the 6 that's not providing the "Body twisting" shifts that everyone says it gives?
It took almost 2 days to put in because every bolt for the crossmember broke and even with the sharpest drill bit I could get my hands on it still wasn't really working drilling the bolts out. We ended up cutting the floor so we could get at the bolts. Heated them with a torch, took out the broken studs, ran new ones in and put new bolts over the stock ones to be sure it was staying put. After all the crap I went through there's barely any difference. The only thing I've noticed is when just cruising to speed form a stop you don't notice a shift, the rpms just drop. At WOT there's no difference.
Is there something besides just putting it in I was supposed to do or is it just the lack of power from the 6 that's not providing the "Body twisting" shifts that everyone says it gives?
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Sounds more like your band is slipping. The only thing the vette servo will affect performance-wise is the speed of band application during the 1-2 shift. If the band is worn and/or glazed or the reaction sun shell is glazed.. well.. not a whole lot going to change.
The vette servo speeds up the 1-2 shift by using a smaller 2nd gear piston. Fills with fluid faster, thus actuating faster, but doesn't supply as much pressure on the band... with wear building up, the difference in application speed may not make up for the slippage from decreased force. Have you tried doing this with a manual 1-2 shift, since using low gear settings maximizes line pressures?
The vette servo speeds up the 1-2 shift by using a smaller 2nd gear piston. Fills with fluid faster, thus actuating faster, but doesn't supply as much pressure on the band... with wear building up, the difference in application speed may not make up for the slippage from decreased force. Have you tried doing this with a manual 1-2 shift, since using low gear settings maximizes line pressures?
Last edited by TechSmurf; Aug 3, 2004 at 03:48 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,028
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
going with the idea that your transmission is worn. When i had my vette servo installed, it was done because the transmission needed a rebuild, the end result of the rebuilt tranny was quick shifts into gears, but also.....snapping your neck shifts between 1-2, and tires chirping as well.
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
The tranny has 163,000 miles on it but shifts fine. Doesn't slip when you put it into drive or anything. I changed the fluid a month ago and there were hardly any metal shavings in the fluid... as in you couldn't see anything in it, it just felt gritty. As far as the clutches and all that I have no idea what kind of shape those are in.
After driving it a little more, too and from work I am noticing it shifts harder, just not at WOT, at least not any harder then it already did...Trans has always shifted hard at WOT.
After driving it a little more, too and from work I am noticing it shifts harder, just not at WOT, at least not any harder then it already did...Trans has always shifted hard at WOT.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I did just say in another thread that these 60* motors last an easy 200,000 but an auto trans isn't gonna be all that great with hi mileage.
Anyone with a auto trans and over $100,000 on it should be saving quarters n dims for a trans rebuild some time. Should be almost expected and planned for.
The parts don't cost very much and its not that hard unless you pay someone to do it. .
Every 100,000 on the clock a rebuild and a rebuilt torque converter should be already planed for or at least thought of.
A stick owner has the same thing. a new clutch n pressure plate should be done probably even sooner if you race on it. A fly wheel should be the long term planed out part.
DIY and they both can cost $2-300 in parts
Anyone with a auto trans and over $100,000 on it should be saving quarters n dims for a trans rebuild some time. Should be almost expected and planned for.
The parts don't cost very much and its not that hard unless you pay someone to do it. .
Every 100,000 on the clock a rebuild and a rebuilt torque converter should be already planed for or at least thought of.
A stick owner has the same thing. a new clutch n pressure plate should be done probably even sooner if you race on it. A fly wheel should be the long term planed out part.
DIY and they both can cost $2-300 in parts
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
Both as in trans and torque converter and breifly what's involved? A servo took me 2 days to put in so.... Granted I had to get 4 really messed up bolts out to get the crossmember in but......
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From: Philly
Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Originally posted by 85f-bird
but also.....snapping your neck shifts between 1-2, and tires chirping as well.
but also.....snapping your neck shifts between 1-2, and tires chirping as well.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,028
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
guess it could, but i've never had a problem with it w/o WOT. With regular throttle acceleration, i simply get a firm shift from 1-2...but it won't kill you...if you drop the hammer, she gets all wrould up.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
Mine you have to be on it for it to shift hard, if your just cruising up to speed slow you barely notice a shift at all it's so quick so I don't know how that would get "Old"
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,965
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From: Philly
Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Simple, put it behind a motor that actually makes some tq and you'll see how it can get "old" fast. In a daily driver it sucks.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
What you guys are doing in your garages is not going to evr produce the results you want. This is why there are professional shops to build these things and good ones cost big bucks.
The valve body has to be blueprinted for flow based on what is done. My car can shift harder than anything you have ever driven in (even with the little V6 your neck snaps on 1-2 when it bumps at wot), however, it drives tame when relaxed (still shifts instantaniously- just doesn't bump you like the higher pedal pressure does.
What I maean by blueprinted based on flow is- it depends on things like- what convertor are you running, how big is the front pump (7,10 13 vanes), boost valve( most run a .471 aftermarket. Then there are .500 and .521 like I run), sevro size, cluthes (type and quantity) - There are so many factors that vary line pressures in different gears at different rpms. The valve body has to be adjusted for proper flow- in other words, you better know your s**t if you plan to build a very good 700r4. Why I leave that to the experts with the proper machinery and testing equipment.
I have said before and will say again, any of you stick guys heads would spin if you ever rode in my auto tranny car- I will arrogantly state most if not all of you have no clue what an auto tranny can do- and I'm not talking about a simple shift kit or even a decent over-the-counter performance build 700r4. An over-the-counter unit can be made to shift hard- but always, and is not smooth to drive.
The valve body has to be blueprinted for flow based on what is done. My car can shift harder than anything you have ever driven in (even with the little V6 your neck snaps on 1-2 when it bumps at wot), however, it drives tame when relaxed (still shifts instantaniously- just doesn't bump you like the higher pedal pressure does.
What I maean by blueprinted based on flow is- it depends on things like- what convertor are you running, how big is the front pump (7,10 13 vanes), boost valve( most run a .471 aftermarket. Then there are .500 and .521 like I run), sevro size, cluthes (type and quantity) - There are so many factors that vary line pressures in different gears at different rpms. The valve body has to be adjusted for proper flow- in other words, you better know your s**t if you plan to build a very good 700r4. Why I leave that to the experts with the proper machinery and testing equipment.
I have said before and will say again, any of you stick guys heads would spin if you ever rode in my auto tranny car- I will arrogantly state most if not all of you have no clue what an auto tranny can do- and I'm not talking about a simple shift kit or even a decent over-the-counter performance build 700r4. An over-the-counter unit can be made to shift hard- but always, and is not smooth to drive.
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Does "over the counter" primarily cover TCI and B&M, or are ProBuilt and Level10 in the same league?
Banned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 0
From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by TechSmurf
Does "over the counter" primarily cover TCI and B&M, or are ProBuilt and Level10 in the same league?
Does "over the counter" primarily cover TCI and B&M, or are ProBuilt and Level10 in the same league?
I'm sure many people here know what a trans is supposed to feel like. As far as the 700, Idont like them. When i built my engine i went with a th350. But, all things aside, I dont think that anyone can build a 700 like dana at probuilt. I have seen his trans in action, felt the way they shift, and it is amazing. And yes, lots of people pay that price that they ask. I didnt. THe price alone is why I have a th350.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
I'm not expecting my trans to shift so hard I spin both tires a few rotations or my neck breaks or anything like that. I expected a small to decent increase for a "quick and easy" mod to the transmission that wasn't going to cost me $2g. It's not like I expected my car to be the hardest shifting thing around for $22 but from what everyone had said and raved about installing a vette servo and bull I had to go through to put it in I expected a bit more.
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