Re-routing smog pump if possible...
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: reidsville,nc,usa
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Borg Warner 3.27 gears
Re-routing smog pump if possible...
Believe it or not...mine went out again 1 year after I got it.This is the second one from Autozone,IS THERE any way I can reroute the serpentine belt on my 91 3.1 V6 and bypass the smog pump altogether?If so, what size belt do I need or what year camaro belt would work?If anyone has a pic,that would be a GREAT help.
-Ken
-Ken
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
You said key word, AUTOZONE. I wont by jack from them anymore.
I have re-routed my belt to delete the smog pump, but I had to make a longer alternator bracket. Cant rem belt length, sorry.
I have re-routed my belt to delete the smog pump, but I had to make a longer alternator bracket. Cant rem belt length, sorry.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Best method I found is to get the idler pully and bracket from an '88 or '89. Install that and use that year serpentine belt. All factory is good. Even better is when the belt routing decal is also transferred over.
RBob.
RBob.
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From: IL
Car: 91RS, 91RS
Engine: 305TBI, 3.1MP
Transmission: WCT5, TH700
I may be ignorent in this question, but wouldent eliminating the smog pump on my 1992 RS with 3.1 V6 cause problems? Like setting off trouble codes, affecting engine performance/gas mileage? I may be wrong in my assumption's, but I'm not sure.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 504
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From: reidsville,nc,usa
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Borg Warner 3.27 gears
Well, I found a smog delete pulley at a salvage yard but he wants and a leg.I might just use a shorter belt if I can figure how to do it.I am thinking about using something like yarn to create a route like the factory belt but leaving out the smog pump in the loop.Then I might subtract about an inch or two from that length so the tensioner pulley can keep it tight.Any thoughts on that idea?I can go to AZ or Advance with the length and have them get me a close match.
-Ken
-Ken
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From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Arm & a leg for an IDLER pulley? It shouldn't cost THAT much for a pulley that does nothing but take up space. Heck, they came on the AUTO 2.8s, I'm sure it'll bolt right in easily. Make sure you get the bracket AND the pulley.
Does anyone have a picture of the pulley? maybe I'll snap one tonight.
Does anyone have a picture of the pulley? maybe I'll snap one tonight.
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Car: a car being parted out
Engine: blown up
Transmission: in peices
you really do not need the idler. There is enough room to clear, yes the 2 belt runs get kinda close, but not more than say 1.5"
To figure the length of belt...
take some string, yes string.
Run it around the pully's are the belt would go.
Now you have 2 choices here, you can...
1. subtract 2.5-3" from the total (that will make sure the tensioner could get a piece of it to tighten.
or...
2. Run the string and when you get to the tensioner, run it about 3/4" up the tensioner on the lower bottom.
To figure the length of belt...
take some string, yes string.
Run it around the pully's are the belt would go.
Now you have 2 choices here, you can...
1. subtract 2.5-3" from the total (that will make sure the tensioner could get a piece of it to tighten.
or...
2. Run the string and when you get to the tensioner, run it about 3/4" up the tensioner on the lower bottom.
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