OK my car is running like crap....when i start it up it quickly revs up to 2000rpm and then slowly comes down to 900 or so and then idles with a stumble and will occationally try to stall, like it will drop below 400 and then stutter and i have to give it gas. Sometimes i cant prevent it and it just stalls.. i have no idea whats wrong...I replaced my PCV valve, newer plugs...?! im just not sure! I need some suggestions

 

mine has been doing the same thing...as a mechanic (a crappy one apparently) I cannot discover the cause. Do you have a check engine light on at least? (if you do I can help)

 

well it was coming up and then...after i replaced the PCV Valve it stopped coming up...i use to come up after like 15min of driving and stuff....like i would start up and no ses light....now i dont know what to do...i really dont want to take it to a mechanic. Cause they'll just charge like 100 to look..and i would rather spend that 100 on parts that might work...and if not atleast i have new parts

 

Well, sounds like you need to make friends with a mechanic, lol. I've NEVER charged someone to diagnose a problem, unless of course they were a jerk or somthing. If you have them fix it, they shouldn't charge for diagnosis anyhow.

On a side note, I find that people always take advantage of the "no-charge" diagnosis at my shop. I spend an entire day finding a problem, only to tell the customer and have them fix the problem themselves.... had I charged them per-hour diagnosis, at 45 bux an hour....well you understand. Customers always whine about getting charged for this service, but rarely stop to think why they are charged a rate for it. It takes alot of time and usually labor to discover drivability problem causes, which is a SERVICE. SO folks, next time you go to a mechanic, don't try and knock the price, it's EXTREMELY rude. I'll admit, there are some shops that take advantage of people (alot of corporate shops do, MIdas, Pepboys etc.), which is very wrong. Charging for diagnosis is to protect shops from losing revenue from DIYers, try to understand If you do eventually find out, be sure to let me know what the cause was too

 

yea...ok....45bux...anyway, im just gonna have to try somethings to fix it. oh and the reason i dont like to take my car to mechanics is...a guy wanted to charge 150dollars to put an o-ring on a distributor. needless to say i went and bought an entire distributor for 100dollars and put it in. problem fixed, saved 50, and i have a new distributor. im not hating against mechanics...just sometimes i hear and have experiences that leave me rough. anyway if u dont know whats wrong and ur a mechanic....i dont know what to do....eh...ill try stuff...see what works...if something does ill post it up

 

I don't have time to troubleshoot my own car. Most mechanics drive absolute piles anyhow, because we are busy repairing other peoples cars. Oh, and don't overlook the obvious things either (fuel filter, vac leak, ICM, O2sensor, EGR).

 

i have the same problem, i believe it to be a problem with the egr and the fuel filter


might also be tps related

 

Mine was doing the same thing. I cleanded out the TB and it stopped i think it may have been the IAC was dirty.

 

Nine times out of ten the IAC and TB are the culprits when it comes to a fluctuating idle.

 

hehehe....i replaced my fuel filter and cleaned out the IAC and TB and now she purrs like a kitten so yea might wanna try that FbodTrek

 

Mine (3.1) did the same thing for a while, I just put up with it till one day it just stalled and stranded me. Lets just say I'd had enough. Replaced the fuel filter: nothin. Cleaned my TB and all of the other intake components I could get to: nothin. Ended up havin to replace the fuel pump . Lets hope it dosent come to that for you. Could be a number of things, but from experience it sounds like a fuel problem.


~Max

 

Fuel pump is BRAND new, Carter 205lph unit. But I will be trying the IAC just for ****s and giggles.