OK, I hope I do this attachment thing right (computers OWN me...) I guess I can only attach one at a time....hmmm. Anyhow, here's the underhood shot. Who needs A/C anyhow, the nitrous gets cold when discharged anyhow

 

very nice! when you gonna get some track times?

 

correct me if this is wrong, but one time i remember seeing a newer model ls1 camaro with nitrous. anyway the spray nozzle's were in the air box pre mass air, it was a dry shot and the guy said that the mass air would compensate the fuel by the nitrous cooling the mass air down and making it think(well it is) there is a cooler air charge going into the motor. anyone saw or heard this. or hell tried it.

 

I'm goin, I'm goin, keep your shirt on! Perhaps this weekend, I have to get it to MY mechanic first though....having idle issues and all of my plugs show to be on the lean side of the A/F curve. Plugs are very white in color (no heat pitting though). I need a PROM bad in all honesty. I'm going to get suggestions from my guy first though, he may be able to give me some advice or adjust some things so I can be a bit more safe with the juice (I'm jetted a hair rich too on the fuel jet). All in all I need tuning and then, IT'S ON!
*Note, I will be running the 1/8, if I can bust a 9.6, i'll be happy, if I can't...I've got 3 more setting to try *

 

Ninja double post action hero!
I've heard the same thing, I always see imports with the nozzle in the CAI though, no MAF there.....Might try asking on the poweradder forum, they should know. Dry shots scare me though.

 

yeah but i think that that was the best part about that setup, because you didnt have to plumb any fuel it was all handled by the maf and the ecm. I wish i remembered where i saw that friggin thing. its driving me nuts now.

 

Dry tends to be more dangerous though, and pluming the fuelline in was easy as pie (probably the easiest part of the setup). If you ever consider going with spray, I can tell you exactly whay parts you need to go with this style of wet setup.

 

no offense, but i am an all motor kind of person. I know that for the money that nitrous is the biggest for the money power adder. but I just like the satisfaction of putting parts of a motor together to make power, instead of adding nitrous. but i have tons of friends who use it and i hold nothing aginst someone who uses it im just an all motor person.

 

Oh, believe me, I'm an "all-motor" kinda guy too. I've had my nitrous setup lying around forever though,and wanted to see how fast it would go with a 50 shot. I run pretty quick on motor as of now, but the nitrous is for killing faster cars. I'm currently working a set of heads and researching an intake design that I believe will help this mill quite a bit in the chosen RPM band. My engine isn't stock, and getting further away from it every day

 

 

Dangit Gumby, i didn't want to have to type, lol . Ok then....Ok for parts then I guess:
BorgWarner Relay PT# R683
Nitrous/fuel solenoids
Main feed line (nitrous)
Main feed line Fuel (1/4" brakeline with 4 AN flare end fittings)
About 40ft of 16 ga wire
Butt splices
fish eye crimps
spade terminal connector crimps
Nitrous nozzle, and jets> .037N .022F = 50shot

And next post will explain some less than detailed installation tips....:lala:

 

Ok now Kids, the plumbing of the hard parts (nozzles, lines, hoses etc.)comes first.
1. You need somewhere to install the nozzle, I cheaped out and used 3" PVC (SCH80). It will need to have a hole drilled into it (just slightly smaller than nozzle threads). Position the hole no more than 6" from the Throttle body. Now, purchase some 3" rubber plumbers clamps (those black things I failed to mention). Discard your original induction tube for the PVC and connect it all together with the rubber connectors.
2. Once you have the induction side looking somthing like the picture posted, you can breathe easy. Making a place for the nozzle is one of the most difficult steps (easy huh?). OK now, since we're plumbing the Fuel mainline with hardline flaretube, you need to find a plce ON THE MOTOR to mount the solenoids. I ditched my A/C and had an ideal spot. Most people will find this step the hardest of all. Although it may seem different, there really aren't that many places to mount the noids.
( IF YOU'RE NOT running hardline for fuel, the noids can go anywhere where you have enough line to reaceh the bottle and nozzle. ) The reason the noid go on the motor with hardline is because engine torque will twist the line and cause a leak.
3. Now, running the lines to the nozzle thats in the tube is pretty easy, but keep them away from exhaust manifolds. Use teflon tape on the noid side connections to prevent leaks.
4. Ok, assuming you've got these steps down, the hard part is done. Go ahead and bend the fuel line to go from the fuel pressure test port to the fuel noid (bend slowly and be careful not to kink the line). Make the connection to the fuel solenoid by using an 1/8 inch X -4an flare fitting, you can purchase this at an autoparts store (you'll need only 1). They usually keep these fittings where they keep the brakeline. The flare end is identical to the test port flare fitting end in size and shape (take a look before you go part hunting). Install fitting on input side of fuel solenoid
5. Once you have made the connection between the test port and fuel solenoid, the other fun part begins-Running the main nitrous feed line. Now, I used a 3000psi Hydraulic hose that my boss used to feed a 500Hp nitrous system. My hose had -4an connectors at both ends (I also had to use 2 of thoe 1/8 inch X -4an flare fittings). I had one -4 an connector at my noid input side to mount the feed line.
6. Now to get the line through the firewall..... GM was EXTREMELY nice to provide us with a spot JUST to pass a nitrous feed line! Just below the relays on the drivers side, there is a steel plug (looks like it's welded in at first glance). You can remove said plug from the inside easily with a screwdriver (it's hidden under the dash, you'll figure it out).
(continued next post)

 

Once you have the plug out, pass the feed line throught the firewall and connect it to the noid (if it's a flare fitting don't use teflon tape). Yay for you, the plumbing is done! :lala:


Now for the electrical junk (I hate electronics). This part is kinda confusing so I'll post a dorky diagram and then let you figure out the placement (if you can't solo this installation with this diagram, have someone else do it!). For the electrical part you'll need an arming switch and trigger (pushbutton or WOT switch), and the relay and wiring componets (splices and crimps).

 

The diagram shows the use of a safety switch for those who wish to use one (you'll have to figure out installing that yourself! lol). This shows the basic setup but not which points on the relay the wires connect to:
There are 5 pins on the relay, you only use 4 though. This setup diagram shows the use of two Relays, one for each Solenoid (a bad idea in my opinion, if one fails the other will work alone, if the fuel relay fries, so does your motor...) I condensed the diagram into using one relay (pt# R683). It shouldn't be too hard to figure out how to condense it, but if you choose to use two relays....good luck. I will condense it for you soon and post a crappy Paint* picture illustrating this single relay setup.

 

Like I said, it's easy to condense. Anyhow, assuming you wire everything up right, test the switches to make sure that both noids are functioning. Piece of cake right? Now, you prolly have already decided where to put your arming switch and trigger lead (mine is a hand held trigger, yours may be a WOT switch or button on the steering wheel), go ahead and make everything pretty. If everything works, and everything is plumbed in, time to mount your bottle and testfire your spray. I had to mount mine on the driveshaft hump in the rear passenger area because my mainline is only 12' long. Mounting it at the correct angle required fabricating custon bracketry and a few hours work. Once the bottle is in (and obviously, filled) test fire the system with just the nitrous by activating the button with the key off, it should spray just fine.
Now the final step, removing the valvecroe from the fuel test port where the fuel line is connected. A standard tire valvestem tool will remove it quite easily. Reattach the main fueline and tighten everything up well. This tightening requires EVERYTHING TO BE TIGHTENED. Install the jets into the nozzle (.037 nitrous .022 fuel) and reattach the feed lines. Turn key on to prime the system.

Now, remove the intake tube and , with key on, activate the button. You should see a fog sray out of it quite thickly and smell alot of fuel. Be careful while doing this, it's not entirely smart to begin with....NO SMOKING geniuses.....
Ok, reattach the tube, tihgten the clamps and you're good to go.

 

TESTING THE SYSTEM, THE RIGHT WAY.............
----------------------------------------------------
Fill up with 93 Octane, Go to the track (bring a trailer loser, ). Prestage, open bottle, arm system, stage. Now listen carefully, don't spray off the line the first time, not a good idea at this point. Take trigger in hand (depending on your setup), stage the car, launch all motor. When you hit about 3000-3500rpm, HIT IT!.......WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!! Hopefully you don't hear anything funny, pinging, sputtering, anything very odd....misfires will be VERY obvious, if you do, let off the button IMMEDIATELY . ASLO, don't let off the accelerator while still spraying, it will backfire, and blow your tube off....plus it's scary....
Let off the button before you cross through the traps, then once you're through, the accelerator. Congrats, you prolly just knocked off more than half a second from your ET (at least). If you didn't blow up, be glad.
:lala:

OK OK, time for the disclaimer:::::::
I don't intend people to follow this to a T and then whine to me when the melt a piston. You should research N.O.S. THOROUGHLY before EVER considering using it. Spraying at low RPM will do you in (or in high gear, like 4th, 5th). Never powershift while spraying, you'll backfire. Better to spray while running a tad rich, running at stoich is not advised (but doable). Do not spary with advanced timing, you'll blow it. This write-up was done as a ghetto-style walktrhough for installing a DIY nitrous setup. I would imagine kits are pretty easy in comparison, If you have 500 bux, buy a kit (EFI Wet kit, with 50-100hp jetting). I'll add more pics when I take some, interior mounting, detail of firewall passage, and whatnot. Thanks for reading it.







Oh, and Gumby, Edit it could ya? I'm sure there are mistakes and things I left out, as well as making it easier to read.....

 

looking good

 

Dry shots are risky, no matter how they're run. That 'cool the maf to make the ECU compensate' thing is all fun and games on a 30 shot... but who uses a 30 shot on an LS1? And a 100 shot? A 100 shot will melt an LS1 into a puddle of high-tech chevy scrap if the computer doesn't manage to compensate. MAFs weren't designed to work like that, nor should they be used like that. Wet shot or "I told you so"....

BTW, the MAF we V6 thirdgen guys use is NOT a hot-wire MAF, and will not compensate at *all* for such stupidity.