The car runs and will start right up! But the engine is making a werid noise and also its extremely BOGGING down... i mean i can put it in drive and floor it to the ground! and the speed just goes up pretty slow!?? no matter what gear anyone have a idea oh whats wrong with it.

by bogging down could you explain that? and btw the engine isnt a powerhouse....

When's the last time it had a complete tuneup??

By "bogging" do you mean the RPMs are fluctuating? If that's the case I know a bad MAF sensor causes that and you probably need a good tune up.

Complete tuneup + New Timing Chain

ok, lets start here. Instead of throwing parts at it in hopes of getting lucky, lets do this logically.

Can you sit there in P/N and rev the motor freely?

if yes...
Do you have a vacuum guage?
--->yes...
if you do, hook it up to manifold vacuum while the engine is
running at idle in park/neutral. snap the throttle all the way
open and release it. you should see the needle go almost to
0, then snap way up past where it was at idle, then come back
down. this is to test for an exahust restriction. if when you ---> snap the plate open it doesn't go down to 0, then you have a restriction in the intake.

--->no...get one and do the above test.

if you can't rev it freely...
does it backfire or fire into the intake at all?

I would check to make sure that I have a good spark by removing a plug from the engine, putting in the coil wire, holding the plug to the block/intake bolt or something, and looking at the spark when someone cranks it. if it's white, then you have a decent spark from the coil. unfortunatly, this test is not 100% because it is WAY harder to fire a plug under compression, so it's just a check to see if you have spark on a regular basis.

if you want and if you have an extra plug, you can cut the side electrode off, put that in the boot and try the same thing. just remember to hold the center electrode as far away from the engine as possible so that you are sure that it jumps to the plug base, not the block. this test will give you a better idea of the spark strength simply because you are trying to jump one big *** gap. if it's still white, then your coil is ok.

Also, check fuel pressure if you can. make sure that it hangs out around 40psi all the time, even if you rev to engine up. it shouldn't move but just SLIGHTLY(like 1 psi for less than 1 second)

i would start with the vacuum test first, that is where I think the problem will be found

i get code 34 which is from the MAF sensor not not enough air or what ever... i replaced that and a burnoff relay... also a complete tuneup was done right before this started happening and still code 34 pops up

wires
spark plugs
cap+rotor
ignition modulator

by bogging down i mean its like its not getting any fuel or air
i took the airbox off where it connects to the MAF and then i noticed it backfireing making a poping noise

i found the problem out, turned out that 2 of my spark plug wires were burned pretty bad and one of em also completly in two peaces, so it was running on 4 or 5 cyl.. now just having problems with code 34!

with the MAF hooked up properly and the car idling, gently tap on the MAF housing with a screwdriver handle (Knock on it). If the idle fluctuates from the tapping, the MAF is bad.

i will try that, but i just bought a brand NEW MAF about 5 months ago and after i installed it the light never turned off....i also tried replacing the relays burn off relay and theres another one that i never replaced

What's this? I was right and Doward wasn't?! haha, I don't know what the heck was wrong with old 89 Camaro... It ran fine with no error codes without the MAF and, when I hooked up the MAF it started stuttering and, error codes of all sorts flew out me.