Best cam for this setup?
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Best cam for this setup?
alright i've got my new 2.8 to work on. its already bored .30 over. heads are going to be ported and polished along with the intake(all will be flowmatched). now i'm wondering should i get a slightly bigger cam for this over stock? or just go stock replacement?
i'm going with a hydraulic cam and lifters. also should i move up to 15lb injectors? and for the oil pump, what the best hi flow out there? i'm thinking about using a stock 3.4 pump
i'm going with a hydraulic cam and lifters. also should i move up to 15lb injectors? and for the oil pump, what the best hi flow out there? i'm thinking about using a stock 3.4 pump
Well, it all depends on what you want..
By the way, have you already selected your pistons?
If not, I HIGHLY recommend that you get a set of performance pistons from the Fiero Store (www.fierostore.com).
These pistons will fit your car, they'll boost you up to about a 9.4 compression (really nice).
Otherwise, I would go with .030 speedpros.
My recommendation for a cam upgrade is to go with the H272 cam from CompCams. This cam increases the power of your motor across the entire power band. I suggest using them with 1.52:1 roller rockers.
Or, you could go with a 2030 Crane Cam and 1.6:1 roller rockers (but you may need Fiero valve covers... or a sledge hammer and a piece of wood as someone else suggested).
You'll also want to go to larger injectors. Check the numbers on your injectors, I believe the early 2.8 MPFI motors got 13# injectors.. you'll want to go with 15s at the least, or 17s and a fuel pressure regulator.
Go with the Accel Pintle style injectors.
While the motor is apart, do some serious port / polish work as well...
Go here for info on how to do this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=59938
By the way, have you already selected your pistons?
If not, I HIGHLY recommend that you get a set of performance pistons from the Fiero Store (www.fierostore.com).
These pistons will fit your car, they'll boost you up to about a 9.4 compression (really nice).
Otherwise, I would go with .030 speedpros.
My recommendation for a cam upgrade is to go with the H272 cam from CompCams. This cam increases the power of your motor across the entire power band. I suggest using them with 1.52:1 roller rockers.
Or, you could go with a 2030 Crane Cam and 1.6:1 roller rockers (but you may need Fiero valve covers... or a sledge hammer and a piece of wood as someone else suggested).
You'll also want to go to larger injectors. Check the numbers on your injectors, I believe the early 2.8 MPFI motors got 13# injectors.. you'll want to go with 15s at the least, or 17s and a fuel pressure regulator.
Go with the Accel Pintle style injectors.
While the motor is apart, do some serious port / polish work as well...
Go here for info on how to do this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=59938
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
MTC-5 + Roller Rockers!

204/214 @ .050" lift, and .422/.444
About the biggest I'd recommend, without PROM tuning.

204/214 @ .050" lift, and .422/.444
About the biggest I'd recommend, without PROM tuning.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,383
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
my goals is to make a motor that will be reliable, i want to be able to build this once and not need to worry about it 45000km down the road, and since its already apart i'd put some things into it to pep up the motor. such as porting the heads and intake, adding a different cam, underdrive crank pulley, smog and air delete, aswell as headers.
the motor i've gotten already has pistons with it, i might decided to upgrade these as well, i was planning on putting in a afpr, if i do should i go with 17lb injectors? i want to build this engine without needing any sorta prom work done. and would like to stick under the 1.6 rockers if possible.
the motor i've gotten already has pistons with it, i might decided to upgrade these as well, i was planning on putting in a afpr, if i do should i go with 17lb injectors? i want to build this engine without needing any sorta prom work done. and would like to stick under the 1.6 rockers if possible.
Last edited by kretos; Nov 30, 2004 at 01:59 PM.
In my opinion, you should only go with 1.6s dependant upon the cam you select. Something wild like the H272, you would want to go with 1.52:1. Something more calm like the 2030 Cam, you would want to go with 1.6s.
If you do a complete port and polish of the intake pieces, and hog out the inside the plenum by the neck... you can expect to pick up close to 10 horsepower in the upper rpms. It's one of the largest power gains you could ever conceive from this motor... removing the restrictions in the engine's intake flow are almost as beneficial as upgrading to a cam.
I WOULD suggest the 17s if you're going to go with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
That way, if you ever increase power a bit more, you can always just give it a bit more fuel.
Also, if you switch to higher octane fuel, you can advance the timing and pickup another horsepower or two...
If you do a complete port and polish of the intake pieces, and hog out the inside the plenum by the neck... you can expect to pick up close to 10 horsepower in the upper rpms. It's one of the largest power gains you could ever conceive from this motor... removing the restrictions in the engine's intake flow are almost as beneficial as upgrading to a cam.
I WOULD suggest the 17s if you're going to go with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
That way, if you ever increase power a bit more, you can always just give it a bit more fuel.
Also, if you switch to higher octane fuel, you can advance the timing and pickup another horsepower or two...
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
well i like crane and the 2030 seems to come up all the time, with the 1.6 rockers i'm going to need to get a new set of pushrods. thats fine. i want to put in a afpr just to be on the safe side, i'd like to know what pressure i'm running with without needing to remove the plenum to get at the fuel rail.
i'm hoping to add dowards turbo kit down the road, would the 17's work well enough for that?
i'm hoping to add dowards turbo kit down the road, would the 17's work well enough for that?
The H272 is also a good cam.. it's made by Crane basically, as they now own Comp Cams.
With the 1.6:1 rockers, you don't need new pushrods... you can continue to use your old ones.
If you REALLY plan on going with a turbo later on down the line, then you will want to have a lower compression.
To be completely honest, if it gets to the point where you want a turbo, you should just buy yourself a ZZ4 V8 crate motor.
You'll have way more power, and it will be much cheaper too.
With the 1.6:1 rockers, you don't need new pushrods... you can continue to use your old ones.
If you REALLY plan on going with a turbo later on down the line, then you will want to have a lower compression.
To be completely honest, if it gets to the point where you want a turbo, you should just buy yourself a ZZ4 V8 crate motor.
You'll have way more power, and it will be much cheaper too.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by 82-T/A [Work]
The H272 is also a good cam.. it's made by Crane basically, as they now own Comp Cams.
With the 1.6:1 rockers, you don't need new pushrods... you can continue to use your old ones.
If you REALLY plan on going with a turbo later on down the line, then you will want to have a lower compression.
To be completely honest, if it gets to the point where you want a turbo, you should just buy yourself a ZZ4 V8 crate motor.
You'll have way more power, and it will be much cheaper too.
The H272 is also a good cam.. it's made by Crane basically, as they now own Comp Cams.
With the 1.6:1 rockers, you don't need new pushrods... you can continue to use your old ones.
If you REALLY plan on going with a turbo later on down the line, then you will want to have a lower compression.
To be completely honest, if it gets to the point where you want a turbo, you should just buy yourself a ZZ4 V8 crate motor.
You'll have way more power, and it will be much cheaper too.
i thought with the 1.6 you would need new pushrods, if not thats great, i'm gonna use that combo then. the turbos kinda a pipe dream right now, but a nice one to have
now about the oil pump, any ideas on that?
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
ANY decent cam, you'll need new springs. Remember, I ran around 12k miles before the turbo, with this cam, and it pulls nicely to about 5600rpm - with headers, I'm sure it'll do 6000.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
alright, i know my drivetrain combo, and ideas on this oiling question though? and if i remove smog and air will i need to get a custom prom burnt?
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
I removed smog pump on mine, with no problems. Odd thing, too - I had a smog pump on my car when I got it, but when I read the stock chip - the pump was disabled in the prom!
Stick shift, here, btw.
Stick shift, here, btw. Supreme Member
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From: High plains of NM
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Kmotion K-700 springs and +.050'' locks will fix most flat hyd appications. use the stock locks if you use a smaller cam.
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
If your building for reliablity, I have read not to get full roller rockers as they are sometimes known to back off loose. Just get roller tipped.
As for the mods you had listed above (didnt read everything), your going to need some tuning. I have less then that and its in desire need of a chip. But I'm waiting on a trans swap, and then someone
to get done with their projects and burn me one.
As for the mods you had listed above (didnt read everything), your going to need some tuning. I have less then that and its in desire need of a chip. But I'm waiting on a trans swap, and then someone
to get done with their projects and burn me one. Supreme Member
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From: High plains of NM
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
95% of the time I tell people to get forged & machined steel standard 7 degree locks and forged steel retainers.
I got them form summit, I think I have part numbers on my cardomain site for the ones I have.
I went with crane +.050 forged steel, Titanium retainers, Kmotion K-700 springs, .530'' seals for the V6.
For the Z28 It's a little different, I have a set of 2.05'' & 1.60'' Titanium valves, Super7 Ti retainers and Super7 bead locks for the exhaust valves, but I need a set of Super7 standard grove locks for the 5/16'' intake valves (not common any where, might get steel ones).
Those are for a huge hydraluic roller cam SBC.
I got them form summit, I think I have part numbers on my cardomain site for the ones I have.
I went with crane +.050 forged steel, Titanium retainers, Kmotion K-700 springs, .530'' seals for the V6.
For the Z28 It's a little different, I have a set of 2.05'' & 1.60'' Titanium valves, Super7 Ti retainers and Super7 bead locks for the exhaust valves, but I need a set of Super7 standard grove locks for the 5/16'' intake valves (not common any where, might get steel ones).
Those are for a huge hydraluic roller cam SBC.
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
oil pump, just a new 3.4 one would be best. It has a larger pickup screen and tube then a 2.8/3.1.
I still dont fully understand the valve spring stuff. I had someone suggest what I needed, and thats what I had installed.
I feel I'm getting a prom chip for quite a decent price from someone on this board. If they feel willing to burn you one, they should chime in or PM you. Mind you, they will be guessing for my engine since I have no way to scan it and they are a good 12 hours away or so.
I still dont fully understand the valve spring stuff. I had someone suggest what I needed, and thats what I had installed.
I feel I'm getting a prom chip for quite a decent price from someone on this board. If they feel willing to burn you one, they should chime in or PM you. Mind you, they will be guessing for my engine since I have no way to scan it and they are a good 12 hours away or so.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,383
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by Nocturnall
I just hollowed out my smog pump and left the back of it off and I don't get any codes or anything from it.
I just hollowed out my smog pump and left the back of it off and I don't get any codes or anything from it.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,383
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
oil pump, just a new 3.4 one would be best. It has a larger pickup screen and tube then a 2.8/3.1.
so the 3.4 one would work fine in my 2.8 correct, i assumed so just checking
I still dont fully understand the valve spring stuff. I had someone suggest what I needed, and thats what I had installed.
i'll call up crane and see what they recommend
I feel I'm getting a prom chip for quite a decent price from someone on this board. If they feel willing to burn you one, they should chime in or PM you. Mind you, they will be guessing for my engine since I have no way to scan it and they are a good 12 hours away or so.
thanks dale, if they are interested i'm sure they will get in touch
so the 3.4 one would work fine in my 2.8 correct, i assumed so just checking
I still dont fully understand the valve spring stuff. I had someone suggest what I needed, and thats what I had installed.
i'll call up crane and see what they recommend
I feel I'm getting a prom chip for quite a decent price from someone on this board. If they feel willing to burn you one, they should chime in or PM you. Mind you, they will be guessing for my engine since I have no way to scan it and they are a good 12 hours away or so.
thanks dale, if they are interested i'm sure they will get in touch
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