Guys, I forgot to submit the solution for the first problem I have posted on thirdgen.org. This is the picture:
The car started right away, no problems at all when idling, but at the time to accelerate it, it started to make some detonations throughout the air intake, where the MAF sensor is located at, my way to resolve this problem was by putting some duct tape on the MAF sensor, covering half of the whole tube. Even like that, the car misfired when running and it was impossible to climb a hill. I had tried almost everything, changed engine timing, sparkplug wires position, until I went to the car shop to see if they had a really good MAF sensor, of course it looked like the others that is why I did not buy it. I was lost, did not know what to do, suddenly I saw a fuel pressure gauge tool, I said, well it is the last try before giving it to the mechanic and pay fortune.....I bought it, next day in the morning before going to work I measured the fuel pressure, it was around 20 PSI.......... the same day I went to a good mechanic to see if it was the fuel pump or the fuel regulator, he told me that if I take the vacuum off from the regulator and the pressure was the same, it was the fuel pump, that is what happened. I got an ACDelco one, and next day I have changed it. Problem fixed. :lala:

 

How hard was that fuel pump to change?

 

It was so hard, because the bolts in the rear bar were seized and we had to heat them up, one came out, and the other had to be cutted off. First of all, we tried to reach the fuel pump from the trunk, for some reason it was welded, so we had to get the tank out. It took 4 hours at least to complete the job. Thanks ***, I could find an ACdelco fuel pump. (they said it lasts longer than the others).

 

TELL ME YOU MADE A HATCH PANEL IN THE REAR!!!

Oh man, you can BET I'll be doing that when I drop the rear end, tank, and replace the fuel pump with the Corvette one I've got!

 

The easy way. [fyi not my car] Most imports have access holes like that factory with a nice cover plate.

 

Gumby, my car looked like that one, the only thing is that I did not cutted the metal sheet. hahah Doward, nope I did not do it..... Anyway, I would like that this new fuel pump could last for many more years

 

Having gone with the AC Delco unit, it probably will last

 

Doward, I have much respect for your craftsmanship.

Please don't meake me lose that respect for you by hacking a crude hole in your car.......

I wish I could find and pour crystal Drain-O into the eyes of the hack that cut up my wife's car like the red one in Gumby's picture. That is why we get exhaust fumes inside, and gasoline fumes when the tank is full. They didn't even bother to use something as high tech as duct tape to seal it back up. Now I have to pull that tank, remove the carpet and anything else I don't want weld spatter on and weld up the mess.

It does not take THAT MUCH effort to do a proper job of dropping that fuel tank. If you can engineer, build, install and tune a one off turbo setup you can drop your tank.

Yeah, I know I'll get some response to this about how cutting a hole is a proper repair and blah blah blah...... I don't hack up other people's stuff when I work on it and I won't hack up mine.

 

I agree with ya Erik, I've dropped my tank twice so far and it's been a royal pain in the butt (see the end of this message), but I don't think I could cut the rear of my car up like that. At least in your case, the carpet won't be that hard to remove since it's the rear hatch section only.

I never thought about gas fumes or exhaust fumes tho; I always thought about accident (gas splashing upward, igniting, and covering the passengers in firey gasoline, like an old Mustang) or structural problems.

Hey, me too... the upper passenger side bolt for the track bar brace is frozen. I think it's rusted to the metal "bushing-less" sleeve that's in the track bar brace. The nut loosens but the bolt won't budge. So I have to dig a hole in the lawn and swing the track bar brace into the hole in order to get it out of the way... what a pain!

 

I wouldn't do all that. Just fix it from the inside. I would just get a nice cover plate cut from an import or make one and just pop rivet it over the hole. Then use bondo or fiberglass to seal up everything. No reason to pull the tank n do all that work.

That back piece of carpet pulls up easy and it should not be hard al all. I though would not seal it up 100%. Make it accessable the next time pump needs changed. There is no reason you should have to drop the rear end n tank to do that job.

A hack job like that is fine as long as you finish it off nice.

But another big spots that sucks fumes into the car is the spare tire well.

 

talk about gas fumes. Anyone notice the new big thing on this site is shaving your gas cap. By putting the fill nozel in your trunk glove box.

Yikes, oops I over filled the tank n the car smells for 3 weeks.

 

Eric if you really still want to take a welder and go at the car. There are many many places that need welding more.

Scrap the goo off them shock tower seams n check out them cheesy spot welds GM uses. When I had my car gutted. I welded every body seam I could find. Them spot welds sucks.


Just honestly the way the rest of the car is "welded" you would make the center piece stronger then any other part of the car and it won't be helping you.

Fix the hole but go at everything else too.


Also under the rear seat bottoms n carpet is a good place to look for rust holes sucking in fumes. You can see the floors from under the car in that area.

 

Hey Gumby, I'm a Giants fan, I H8 the JETS! So take care of business this weekend...