whenever i come to a stop my car just stalls.
its starts up fine again and drives fine....but when it comes to a stop, stalls.

it wont idle at all......so i have no idea whats going on

 

what car do you have? could be a number of things
Nick

 

First thing to check is timing.

 

dude, what's your idle set at. I have kinda the same problem, only mine dies when i go to accelerate from a stop, in cold weather. My idle drops to 400 rpms and that's too low, and the engine die because it can't maintain its footing, so to speak. To keep her running i have to floor it. But in your case watch the rpms, if you have a tach., see how low it drops before it dies.

 

Sounds like your EGR is stuck open...

 

How could that be? My EGR is unhooked.

 

Has it been disconneted for awhile? Do you have an auto, maybe the lock-up converter...It seems like a big vacuum leak, which the EGR will cause...

 

TechSmurf gave me a very good solution for the idle air screw....if the EGR is constantly open, it does not let you start the car at all...if it is the timing, you should notice that the car makes some detonations......or backfires......I bet it is an idling problem, you should thanks to TechSmurf too:
I just posted this in another thread, and thought I would make a seperate thread containing the same info since it might come in handy to some other folks.

This idle adjustment procedure worked great on both of my 2.8L Camaros to get the idle back to normal. (Especially the my 89 5-speed that was stalling at stops. The throttle plate was not even close to being open enough at idle.)

I have done the adjustment twice on the 2.8L V6 (once for each of my Camaros), and I can say the adjustment worked well in both cases. As for the 3.1L V6 adjustment, I've never had a 3.1L to adjust the idle on.

Note that there is an IAC and TPS adjustment tech article at thirdgen.org, but this article is not as specific and does not specify the RPM settings for the V6 engines (only the V8s). For a version of this instruction list for V8s, see this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=214817

Taken from the Chilton's Chevrolet Camaro 1982-92 Repair Manual.
My own comments are added in italics.

Before you do any of these adjustments, make sure your timing is where you want it. I have found that changing timing will subtely affect the idle.

Multi-Port Injection (MPFI)
2.8L Engine
1.) Using an awl or equivalent, pierce the idle stop plug and remove it. This is the plug covering the idle speed adjustment screw (aka idle stop screw, aka minimum air adjustment screw) on the back side of the throttle body.
2.) Leave the Idle Air Control motor connected and ground the ALDL diagnostic terminal (connect a wire between the A & B terminals on the ALDL connector). Turn the ignition to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
3.) Wait 30 seconds, and with the ignition switch still in the ON position, disconnect the Idle Air Control connector. (Since the A & B terminals are connected on the ALDL, the ECM will place the Idle Air Control Valve in the park position. Disconnecting the IAC connector will keep the IAC at this setting.)
4.) Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the distributor set-timing connector. (i.e. - The wire on the firewall you disconnect before adjusting timing.)
5.) Remove the ground wire from the ALDL connector. Starting the engine with this jumper wire in place may damage the ECM. See more info from "Vader" here: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=211733
6.) Start the engine, then connect the A & B terminals on the ALDL again. This will place the ECM in Field Service Diagnostics mode which will flash the SES light according to open/closed loop status. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and go into closed-loop operation. Watch the Service Engine Soon light on the dash. When the light is flashing 2-3 times per second (i.e. - rapidly), the engine is in open-loop mode. When the light is flashing about once every second (i.e. - slowly), the engine is in closed-loop mode. Once the engine is in closed-loop mode, continue to step 7.
7.) Adjust the idle stop screw to 500RPM in D if equipped with an automatic transmission or 600RPM in neutral if equipped with a manual transmission.
8.) Turn the ignition OFF and reconnect the Idle Air Control connector and and the distributor set-timing connector. Remove the A & B jumper wire from the ALDL connector.
9.) Adjust the throttle position sensor to 0.54v at closed throttle since adjusting the idle screw has changed the position for closed throttle. Start the engine and check for proper idle operation. You will have to disconnect the battery to clear the code set from disconnecting the distributor set timing connector.

3.1L Engine
1.) Disconnect the negative battery cable. Using an awl or equivalent, pierce the idle stop plug and remove it. This is the plug covering the idle speed adjustment screw (aka idle stop screw, aka minimum air adjustment screw) on the back side of the throttle body.
2.) Ensure the throttle or cruise control cables are not holding the throttle lever from returning fully. Back the throttle stop screw out until and air gap is visible between the screw and the throttle lever.
3.) Turn the screw in until is just contacts the throttle lever; then turn the screw in an additional 1 1/2 turns.
4.) Connect the negative battery cable and connect a suitable scanner to the ALDL connector to monitor the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve counts.
5.) Place the transmission in P if equipped with an automatic transmission or neutral if equipped with a manual transmission.
6.) Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature and enter closed-loop operation.
7.) Monitor the IAC valve counts with all accessories OFF, the IAC reading should be 10-20 counts. If not as specified, repeat the procedure.

Edit - 9/6/2004:
Changed idle RPM numbers for 2.8L engines to 500 and 600 RPM from 550 and 650 RPM (these are the numbers found in the GM service manuals).
Added step instructing removal of jumper between ALDL A & B terminals before starting engine (due to possible ECM damage). Added step instructing the connecting of A & B terminals after engine is running to place the ECM in Field Service Diag. mode

 

Watafo... you realize you both butchered that thread and completely failed to give credit to the person typing it up in the first place, right?..... I didn't write it... it's much easier and much more efficient to link to such things rather than cut/paste them like that.

idle adjustment proceedures

 

Watafo... you realize you both butchered that thread and completely failed to give credit to the person typing it up in the first place, right?..... I didn't write it... it's much easier and much more efficient to link to such things rather than cut/paste them like that.

I did not failed to give the credit to the person who typed it in the first place, I just said that you gave me that link, and we should thank you because that, and the last thing is that I did not remember where the link was at, so I did cut and pasted from my notebook this procedure, so tell me......what is the difference between the original post and the cut and paste I did? :lala:

 

How did you *not* fail to give credit?! I don't see anything remotely resembling "originally typed by LinuxGuy" on there....

Also, all of the formatting, italics, bolds, etc... the emphasis used in the original was lost. those don't copy/paste.. plus both of the links in the post are broken because you copied the visible truncated version... plus all of that is a waste of server space since it already exists somewhere else where it can be easily linked to... so... why not just link to it?

 

I gave the credit to you, and you could do the same to Linuxguy (without start arguing with me about credits…) Now, talking about text format, it is relative, a good reader can catch everything without remarking or putting emphasis in some specific part of the text, when I asked to you about the text difference, I was talking about the text itself, not the format.
Ok, let’s go to server disk space now…….how much space of a hard drive this text can take from a probably 100 or 140 gb disk or probably more…..?.....I am sure that 2 gif animations take more disk space than the pasted text. It does not make sense what you said.
And, the last thing…….why did not you posted the ORIGINAL link before starting to say a bunch of “things” that we are not here to read about. It could be easier if you put the original link and say: “this procedure was written by …..” and that is it. At least you could say “thanks watafo, but this procedure belongs to ….”
Thanks for the space of the HDD for letting me type this reply.

 

Thanks for the info. I've been having some problems with my defrosters and it's come to my attention that a vaccuum leak in the dash could be the cause that as well. the next nice day we get and i'll check it out.

 

Because as a Moderator who likes to do more than lock threads, delete posts, rail users about their oversized signatures, and ban people, I tend go out of my way to help others interface with ThirdGen.Org as a whole. It's my job. Posting technical help is secondary (yet I still somehow manage to find time to do that too), as 99.99% of questions asked here can just as easily be answered by someone else who isn't just reading over the thread to make sure there isn't a flame war in the making or something else which doesn't really look right before moving on to the next thread ad nauseum for every thread with a new post in the V6, TPI, Body/Interior, and Cooling boards.... like your posting of the copy of that thread, which caught my attention as being out of place as a Moderator, not as someone just looking to help answer the original question.

 

I don't know why I didn't check out this thread..

Definetly look toward the IAC motor assembly. Follow the link TechSmurf provided, and follow that to a T - one small add on, though...

When you go to disconnect the plug for the IAC motor assembly, you should hear it 'clicking' - if it is not, I'd suggest making sure the motor isn't crapped, or a wire broken.

Otherwise, check the choke spring...

 

haha choke spring..my bad...
I am wondering why our cars are hard to tune the idling speed...

 

They aren't.. in a nutshell -

Set minimum idle (with the IAC totally closed) - 550rpm?

Hook IAC back up

idle can now be changed anywhere from 550rpm-1200rpm(ish)

All you are doing, is setting the lowest possible idle point.