Well, i've located the problem with the grinding noise. Turns out my calipers are not disengaging all the way, thus, keeping the pads pressed up against the rotors. I've only driven two days with the rotors this way, so, my question is: Is it safe to just re-use the pads currently on the car instead of forking out more money. Any ideas, thoughts, comments, suggestions, ridicules, anything is being accepted at this point.

 

how many miles have you gone on them and was it highway or in town? if it wasnt many miles and it was in town, then they probably havent gotten too hot and warped or anything. if youve gone quite a few miles or at high speeds, theres a better chance of them being warped. but after only a couple days, id say youre probably safe either way. if youve got the money or resources though, id say cut em anyway, just to play it safe, most places are only $6 or 8 per rotor and $10 at most on grease seals. what the heck right?

 

yeah i haven't gone to far. i really don't have the money for new rotors again, but pads i'm sure i can cough up enough for them. thanks for the help.

 

yeah, i wouldnt worry about it then. depending on how worn the pads are, which shouldnt be much, you may not even need those. even if theyre as thick as the backing, theres still 50% left on them. and i highly doubt that much has worn down. id just do the calipers and call it good if youre on a budget.

 

forgot to ask, when i purchase the new calipers, will they have the master cylinder already installed??? haven't bought calipers for a car before.

 

master cylinder sticks out from the brke booster. You should have some type of warranty on teh pads, right? swap them out w/t he new calipers.

Calipers are like $10ea w/core swap.

 

BEFORE YA swap out calipers
try to locate all new parts for the sliding assembly!
Pins, O rings stuff like that.
Also go for NEW HOSES, too.
Yeah this is all FOUNDATION PARTS BUT if in end ya still need new calipers, they will perform at top condition, not new parts working against old mouting stuff.
Price wise, the same and effort wise is "same" but end result could warrant this solution, better operating front brake system.
I've gone this route, and was hoping aginst "problems" but I now need get new pins. Mine are groved and I'll be that's the real problem.
Philly driving and those pot holes ain't too kind so brakes used often.
Take pads to metal sand paper, sand pad surface to remove any glazing. Simple effective trick I was just shown other day (ON MY OWN CAR!).
Flush out brakes, too. Fresh fluid can also help, in end.
I use Valvoline Synthetic DOT4 stuff. Very inexpensive (try liek $2-4 bottle, same price) BUT THE BOILING POINT IS CLOSE TO 500*!
Look at boiling point of DOT3 & see why this is important detail.
I've gone thru the brakes on my car & got them back to very very good condition again.
All new wheel cylinders, springs, pads & shoes & hoses. All contribute to a better brake system.
Pep Boys has all this stuff, too. I know as that's where I got my stuff out here.

As I always say,
Best working brakes on your car is the cheapest auto insurance you can buy.

 

I totally agree with Karl on replacing the brake hoses!! Brake hoses are only rubber, and they deteriorate over time! So they crack, fall apart, and either burst or clog. Definately put new hoses on; they're about $18 each. Make sure you get the copper "crush washers", too. You'll need two for each caliper. A new caliper probably comes with new crush washers.

A crush washer is just a copper washer. Where the brake hoses attaches to the caliper, there are circular grooves. The copper washer "crushes" into these grooves and makes a perfect seal. That's why you can't re-use an old crush washer... you'll get leaks.

A handy tool is either the Mityvac brake bleeder tool (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...emType=PRODUCT). An even cooler tool (which I have and LOVE because it saved me a ton of headaches after I bought it) is the V12 Phoenix Injector. Eastwood carries the cheaper do-it-yourself model (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...emType=PRODUCT) but you can find the full package, the "V12 with Smart Pak and Case" at either http://www.brakebleeder.com or http://www.toolparadise.com or http://www.northerntool.com . (BrakeBleeder.com is the manufacturer's website, but you can find it cheaper at other places. Type "Phoenix injector" into those other two website's search boxes. The V10 Injector is the model before the V12, but works just as well.)

The Mityvac is a suction bleeder. The Phoenix Injector is a pressure bleeder, similar to what the dealerships use.

Mityvac also has a "pro" kit that does everything a Mityvac can do, but of course, it's more expensive. More at http://www.mityvac.com .

 

Oh; here's how I replace a brake hose and caliper with my Phoenix Injector; it's so easy!

1. Lay a ton of newspaper down under the caliper
2. Crack the brake hose fitting free at the metal tube, then tighten it back (just a bit snug) so it doesn't leak. Note if you can't loosen this tube nut, STOP and bring the car to a shop!
3. Clamp vise grips in the middle of the old brake hose. Note that this ruins the old hose permanently!
4. Remove caliper, undo the 11mm bolt that holds the hose to the caliper.
5. Dump the caliper's brake fluid out into a container
6. Attach new hose to new caliper using crush washers, one on each side of the hose fitting. Torque the 11mm bolt to spec (in Haynes Manual!).
7. Loosen the bleeder valve of the new caliper
8. Prep the phoenix injector for RFI (reverse fluid injection)
9. Hold the caliper/brake hose assembly so the open end of the brakehose points up and the brakehose is completely vertical!
*10. Pump the caliper full of brake fluid thru the caliper's bleeder valve until brake fluid comes out of the top of the brake hose. This tells me that there is no air in the caliper/hose assembly!!
11. Tighten the bleeder valve on the caliper. Keep the caliper/hose in the upright position, hose end pointing up (might need a friend to hold this), don't let the hose end droop
12. QUICKLY, remove the old hose from the car. The metal tube starts to drip fluid. QUICKLY connect the new hose to the tube. Work QUICKLY because you don't want your master cylinder to drain empty!

Done! No air ever gets into the system, and there's minimal fluid "mess". There's no pumping of brake pedals, no messing with bleeder valves, etc etc.

 

Thanks for your help guys. I'm a little weary on this particular job because this is my daily, and I really dont want to botch anything up. BUT, I've got my haynes manual, and an entire day Saturday to fool around with. Lets hope everything goes well!!!