V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

is TDC for distibutor removal necessary?

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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 09:08 PM
  #1  
eddie jr's Avatar
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is TDC for distibutor removal necessary?

My 2.8 dist is completely stuck. It will turn prefectly freely but will not come up at all.

All the other engines I have removed distributors from I have never rotated to TDC, i just mark and don't touch the engine. I was just curious if for some reason you have to with this engine tp free it up??
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 10:00 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Just grap hold of the shaft & pull!!!!!. I tried using a mallet on my original distributor. It worked, as it freed it from being stuck, but also knocked free teh "platform" thing that the ecm was attached too. That thing was a PAIN to press back on.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 10:23 PM
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From: PA
Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
Just grap hold of the shaft & pull!!!!!.
Yeah, I've tried that Guess I'll have to yank even harder tomorrow! Just wanted to make sure there was nothing strange holding it in.
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Old Jun 14, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
also maek sure that the hold down is removed (yeah, yeah, liek making sure a computer is plugged in when troubelshooting), and to twist & pull.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Also, I think that the cold start injector will prevent it from being pulled out. 2.8's only, 3.1's don't have a cold start injector.

RBob.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
I don't recall the CSI being a problem.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 01:01 PM
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
From a TomP post:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...tor+cold+start

RBob.

{edit: fixed the link. . ., thanks Project}

Last edited by RBob; Jun 15, 2005 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 03:49 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I was able to replace my distributor w/o any csi problems

^^ bad link btw
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 04:06 PM
  #9  
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Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
check to make sure the hold down clap is loosened, make sure that the wires attached to the icm(assumming you have one) are off, pull. If that doesn't work assuming you have the cap off, remove the rotor and very very lightly tap the shaft with a wooden/rubber mallet do not damage the end. and pull. Also since i have never worked with a 2.8, look for any pesky bolts on the plate.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 04:44 PM
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From: PA
thanks for the suggestions guys. Just to explain a little further, the CSI is out completely, hold down bolt and clamp completely off and cap, rotor and wires completely off (including electrical connectors).

I shall try again tonight.....
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #11  
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From: USA
Car: 1985 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 LB8 HO
Transmission: 700R4 with OD
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 7.625 open-factory 3.42
I had the exact same problem with my distributor back in March when I decided to pull it to replace the ignition module and do a full rebuild on it. No amount of pulling would get it out. The distributor o-ring gets stuck, and glues the distributor shaft to the block. My solution: get a can of brake kleen, pull the distributor up slightly, and shoot some down between the block and distributor shaft. Get some of it down there and it will come out
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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From: PA
Finally got the bugger out thanks for the tips!
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 11:59 PM
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
Spray brake cleaner on rags & clean the area. Spray more on rag & clean into the shaft.
Lube that new oring with motor oil and also get a SMALL BLOCK CHEVY DISTRIBUTOR GASKET
Using both items will guarantee nearly 100% leak free forever.
Place film of black RTV on both sides of Chevy gasket. That SBC distb gasket goes for $1!
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 04:48 PM
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From: PA
Originally posted by KED85
Place film of black RTV on both sides of Chevy gasket. That SBC distb gasket goes for $1!
Should the gasket not go on dry so that you can turn the distributor to adjust timing??
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 05:07 PM
  #15  
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
Just a FILM of Black RTV
What this stuff does is stay "pliable" and decent sealant.
BY USING A FILM, ya get "extra compression spacing, too.
AND seriously, your housing WHEN INSTALLED IN PROPER SPOT (and it really only FITS one place!-remember watch out for ROTOR POSITION, it's 7 PM! for Number one cylinder), need move "very little" for end result fine tuning.
Dry? For this item, I like using some help.
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 05:48 PM
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From: PA
ok I'll give that a try.
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