I am trying to locate a good V6 5-speed to swap out my auto with. Any ideas on where to look. I did a search here and ebay but coming up dry. Everybody has v8 stuff.

 

www.car-parts.com

a local junk yard...
Local classifeds...

 

classifieds are kinda out, not to many junk yards around here. Would not be so bad to find a tranny but i need all the conversion parts to. Maybe i can find a complete car and try to sell whatever is left when i get done.

 

I had to piece part mine together.

I think I spent close to a grand.

 

It would probably be cheaper to just find a whole car.

 

well the guy wants 1200 to do the auto so 1000 is still better. This might sound like a stupid question but can you rebuild manuals just like you can autos most trans shops do auto trans mostly..The reason i ask is if i find a junk car i can buy for 100 take the pedals and stuff and just have the 5 speed rebuilt??

 

Yes you can rebuild manuals, but mostly it is just the syncros that go out. Unless you have a real high HP motor, you do not have to worry about it too much. 91-92 trans is perferable, they are damn near bulletproof for anyting the V6 can put out...

 

Theirs more parts then just sycros in a manual rebuild. But yes, they can be rebuilt but finding a shop that will do it is few and far between. Most pull, send off as a corecharge, and get another back.

 

junkyards are the way to go, i finished up mine right around $400, including a good $120 in shipping some things. just do it yourself, its pretty simple. even if you bought a jack, jackstands, and a sawzall or jigsaw and applied your hourly wage to however many hours it took to complete i still think you could get it done cheaper than any shop could put in an auto(let alone convert from auto to stick)

 

Now, wait a minute. First of all, I can locate a complete swap (clutch assembly, pedals, trans and bellhousing, flywheel) for $350. All I have to do is fork over the cash and about a week later, the trans is mine. A few questions come to mind:

1. Where do I drill the hole for the clutch master cyl, and how big is it (the hole)? Along this line, how do I bolt the thing in place?
2. What's the best way to remove a bolt that has been LocTite'd into place (some idiot used it on the flexplate/convertor bolts and I can't get the --BLEEP-- things out)?
3. How do I tell the diff between a WC and a non-WC T5 without opening it? Also, is there any major difference in the trans between the model years of 85 and 87? Yes, I do know I have to hunt for an electronic VSS if I decide to get this trans...

 

i have a t5 and a 3.1 v6 together. might separate for the right price. 106xxx on it i believe

 

1. Mounted the peddles, let the swing brackets come down. Drilled them holes. Assessed the location and prayed. I was a tad to high. Looking back..... IIRC, the bottom of the big hole needs to level with the lower of the tiny holes. (going from memory)
3. WCt5 uses a torx bolt on the .... left side I think it is. Where the nwct5 uses a normal bolt. There is also some way as to look at the front part where it stabs into the clutch. Best way is the bolt.

:edit: if you want/could use pics of how mine is setup, pm me and I will take some. I'm going to be busy this week and cant check often, so I will need a pm to know my services are needed.

 

Having some pics would be helpful. I could use one of the clutch pedal assembly (where the MC mounts) and one of the shifter assembly, preferably with some sort of indication of where to cut the shifter hole.

 

It is not level, the mc hole needs to be about 1/4" up.

 

Sorry it been a while... As soon as I can get the damn balljoint out of my Grand Prix I can get the Firebird back on jacks and the 700R4 pulled out.

I have the trans (need to see if I can get the passenger side mounting ears welded back on since the guy who pulled it for me broke them off, or if I need a new main housing), clutch assembly, and am waiting on the 21st for the arrival of my bellhousing (huge hole in one side of the thing...). I know where the clutch MC bolts to (I can see the plugged holes in the engine bay ), but I have a couple of extra parts that look like covers or something that seem to go to the slave cylinder end of the clutch assembly that I don't know what to do with. Neither of the L4 and V6 cars in the J/Y had a clutch assembly, so I couldn't take any pics. I do know that the hole for the shifter is located 1" forward from a bracket and 2" back from the front of the flattened part of the trans tunnel, however, I don't know how wide to make the hole since my bracketry was all screwed up when I removed it from the 84 donor V6 car, which had a rusting trans tunnel.

To make it short: I know how to install the pedal set and the MC, but the SC and the shifter hole have me chasing my tail...

:edit: BTW, am I correct in assuming that the clutch reservoir bracket bolts to the power booster?

 

Also, how do I get the dang speedo cable adaptor out of the tailshaft housing?

 

The cable itself unscrews, and then you can undo the 1 10mm (IIRC) bolt that holds the speedo gear drive in

 

There is no cable and no bolt...

Should I try using a pair of locking pliers on the threads of the adaptor to get it to loosen out?

 

When I did my swap, there was already precut holes in the carpet/insulation where the MC mounts. I just used those holes as a template.

 

Okay, I have the bellhousing and I will check on a flywheel shortly. However, I have a good deal of hardware that I have no friggin idea where it goes (the housing bolts were easy to figure out along with the ones for the slave cyl). I have the hardware for the torque arm and the driveshaft also, but the DS hardware is the only set of those I could figure out (the bolts are small, they have lockwashers, and I've seen them before). Can someone unravel this mess?

Also, with regards to the clutch MC, which side does the U portion of the bolt go on, towards the engine or towards the steering column? I know the U end goes in the engine bay...

:edit: Let me put it this way: How many bolts hold the pressure plate to the flywheel? I don't think I have the wheel-to crank bolts, but I do know that there is six of those, so I'll have to count and see what I get...

 

If you take a pic of the hardware, and post a link to the image so I can dl it (high res prefured) I'll be happy to look it over and see what I can come up with.


As for the ubolt that goes thru the firewall, the flat part goes to the bay, and the nuts go on the inside.

As for trans tunner hole width, I made mine about 1/4" wider on each side then the shifter mount, its not really enough.

 

With the shifter hole, I know it's supposed to be the same size as the bracket. However, my floor boot and lower support are NOT factory shape, so I don't know how wide to make the hole, which is supposed to be the same width as the internal width of the bracket (if you can understand that).

With the MC bolt, I need to know which side of the cylinder the U portion of the bolt goes on. Since it is dark here and there is only one light in the garage, I'll have to get a pic of the hardware later, if I can't figure it out on my own.

 

mav, my above post told you how the u-bolt goes on. As well as the picture above also shows.

Or are you talking about the bracket that holds the fluid res? If so, thats not stock on mine and cant help.

I can get you pics of my setup tell the 4th, then I'm camera less for a few weeks.

 

Yeah, you said that the U portion goes on the engine bay side of the MC. Anyone can figure that out from the pic of the pedal setup. I need to know where the U portion of the bolt holds the cylinder. Does it run at the extreme back or what? A pic of the engine bay side of the thing might help, especially with the routing of the hoses...

I know how the fluid reservoir is held on (the driver's side brake master cyl mounting nut)...

 

i have 87 camaaro complete i would let go of for 1300 straight body no rust v6 five speed stick good interior and exterior

 

is the v8 tranny and the v6 tranny not interchangeable?

 

no it isnt ive been told that you can with bell housing swap maybe but the v6 is weaker tranny and wont last long behind a v8

 

The V6 and V8 T-5's are interchangeable--to a point. You can put a V6 trans behind a V8, but you will have a hard time finding a clutch plate that will work with the larger V8 flywheel that has the smaller input spline count. You can put a V8 trans behind a V6, but you will need the V6 bellhousing (unless you have a 3.8 or 4.3) and a clutch kit made for a 3.8 Astro van or something similar, because these have the smaller plate with the larger spline count.

There is esentially no difference in the internals of the V6 and V8 T-5's, except for gear ratios and if the trans is a World Class or Standard T-5.

 

Okay, been a while here, and I have an update:

I have the clutch pedal set and hydraulics in place. The T-5 case has been fixed and the trans rebuilt. I am awaiting delivery of my last parts (flywheel and oil pump screen), the first of which should arrive Tuesday. I went out today and was he11 bent to get the damn 700R4 out, and it's now out. I have the speedo gears from the 700R4 and the T-5 sitting right next to me here, and it appears that it's not as simple as removing the one from the auto to put in the T-5. There are splines on the T-5 speedo gear that give the gear a smaller ID than the one from the 700R4. Now, since it appears that I have to go parts shopping at my local dealer, the question is this:

Do I keep the same color gear (I THINK it's gray? ) from the 700R4 and get one made for the T-5? I cannot use the one from the T-5 because it has a large amount of the teeth stripped out (probably from the front-end collision the donor car was in), and I might possibly have a different rear end gear ratio anyways. Can anyone ?

 

Luckly mine came with the proper speedo gear, but I DO KNOW it is different and not interchageable as the one I got was mechanical, but I swapped it to an electric.

 

Ummm, yeah. That helps...

What do I do about it?

Also, I've read in the Tech Data section that most '84 T-5 equipped LC1 (2.8 carbed) f-bodies came with the 3.42 rear gear, if this is true, then I would just need a replacement gear, correct? I know I need to go out next week and buy an electric D9E VSS when I buy my clutch set (don't have a pilot bearing otherwise I'd probably use what I've got).

The gear from the output shaft of the auto, I think since it's stained, is gray (does that sound right to anyone?). The one from the output shaft of the T-5 is blue. The gear that's on my auto's electric VSS appears to be orange, and the one on the speedo cable adaptor for the T-5 is white. I'm a little confused here as to which gear color I should get...

:edit: BTW, I hope to be able to write a Tech Article on this, since the one that is on the TGO page doesn't make too much sense to me, and this one is a little more V-6 specific. I plan to include a lot of pictures .

 

I think my gear was baby blue.... Wonder how much fluid would drain if I pulled it out? Cause I still need to hook up my backup lights.

Yes, the t5's came with 3.42 gears. I still have 3.23 in mine. Just have to rev it up a bit more to get going.

 

First, you would lose about half of the ATF that's in there due to the fact that the 5th shift rail (that the shift fork attaches to) thing has a hole about midway down the back of the case, about two inches lower than the output shaft.

Second, blue sounds right.

Third, you don't need to pull the trans apart to hook up your reverse lamps. The shift cable from the A4 runs through a grommet on the driveshaft tunnel. Find a grommet to fit the hole, run the wiring from the NSS connector, and hook it up.

 

OO, I know you dont have to pull the trans to hook up the lights. But I do need to replace the switch in the side. Thus possibly loosing some fluid

 

Yah... you'll still lose a lot of fluid there... IIRC the hole that the switch sits in is about a half to an inch lower than the fill/check plug.

GM does not list a blue speedo gear for the 84 T-5. So I have a purple one coming. I hope it's the right one since I told the parts guy that the donor was an 84 SC with the LC1 and a T-5 with the 3.42 rear gear. If its not right (I'll know based on the tach at 60) then I'll just deal with it some other time...

 

i put a Tremic 600 RR (over kill) to my 3.4L

Paul

 

The speedo gear WAS in fact purple, when comparing it to the new one. I have just one last question, Dale: I am using the 84's speedo gear which I have modified (the one that the cable attaches to, not the one on the output shaft), and I know there is a better solution to that. My VSS has a different gear mount than I was expecting.

The flywheel should FINALLY ( ) be here sometime later this week. I have a cutoff tool and starter solenoid repair kit to pick up Tuesday, so everything should be done either late this week or early next week. Then I get to do some and .