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84 2.8 needs help, stalls bad

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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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84 2.8 needs help, stalls bad

Hi,

Needs some guidance and some troubleshooting steps I can do to maybe track the cause of the problem

It's an 84 Camaro 2.8L with stock carb.

What's it's doing is, when you try and accelerate, it starts to stall, just feels like it has no power at all. It's been getting worse and worse. Today, trying to go up a hill it got so bad I had to pull over to let others go by.

Last summer I replaced the plugs/wires because it never wanted to keep running when it was cold also. That seemed to fix the dying problem when it was cold. But the stalling remains, and just getting worse.

I've had problems with the electric choke on this car before and have had it replaced a few times. Is there a way for me to test to see if the choke is working correctly. I checked to see if the choke was getting the 12V, and it is. But I don't know if it's actually working or not?

Any other things to check?

Thanks
Chris.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:44 AM
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Check your timing. Could be fuel pump. Fuel Filter could be clogged. When was the last tune up, Dist cap/plugs wires could be bad.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 06:33 AM
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The Dist/Cap was swapped out about a year and half ago, I guess I could just try another one, and see what happens. All the wires were swapped out last summer with the plugs.

The fuel pump was replaced about 2 years ago, do you think it might be bad already.

We checked the timing and it was OK.


When the car is in Park, I can step on the gas and it revs up fine, no sputtering. Only when driving, does it seem to have a problem.

any other ideas?
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:38 AM
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
1. Check for vacuum leaks. This engine will idle all day with a leak but as soon as you put it in gear it will die.

2. Check your MC solenoid operation.

3. Check your O2 sensor

4. Do you have any noticeable transmission problems?
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:37 PM
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Now that you mention the transmission, the last couple weeks, I thought I was noticing it not wanting to go into Overdrive like it should. Doesn't happen all the time, but I had noticed it. Could this be related?


Vacuum leaks, I'll will try and check to see if I see anything unhooked or obvious.

sorry I feel dense, MC solenoid operation. What is that? and how do I check it?

The 02 sensor was replaced when the fuel pump was replaced, is there a way to test it?
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Just noticed something when I was looking under the hood.

On the exhaust, near where the 02 sensor is. I noticed a crack in the pipe, that goes all the way around. Some exhaust is leaking out from here.

Do you think this is effecting the 02 sensor, and could be causing the stalling?

I can take a pic if you want.

Chris.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 07:25 AM
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
The MC solenoid is the mixture control solenoid. On the 2.8 its located on the back of the carburetor on the drivers side, with a 2 wire electrical connector. You should hear it clicking when the engine is running.

The exhaust leak near the O2 sensor - its possible that there is enough of a leak that the sensor never gets hot enough to put the system into closed loop. The engine will run rich and possibly flood.

The reason I mentioned the transmission, if the torque converter lockup solenoid is sticking or the tranny isn't downshifting, you will see a severe loss of power especially when accelerating uphill.

Last edited by 8492bird; Jan 18, 2006 at 07:29 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 06:28 PM
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Originally posted by 8492bird
The MC solenoid is the mixture control solenoid. On the 2.8 its located on the back of the carburetor on the drivers side, with a 2 wire electrical connector. You should hear it clicking when the engine is running.

The exhaust leak near the O2 sensor - its possible that there is enough of a leak that the sensor never gets hot enough to put the system into closed loop. The engine will run rich and possibly flood.

The reason I mentioned the transmission, if the torque converter lockup solenoid is sticking or the tranny isn't downshifting, you will see a severe loss of power especially when accelerating uphill.
I'm going to try and check all these this weekend, would anyone have a diagram of the vacume lines? Where they start, and where they all connect too? I want to make sure that everything is connected the way it should be. After all these years, and different shops messing around, you never know if everthing is hooked up right.

I'll have to listen for the MC to see if it's clicking. Are there any other signs, when these fail?

I think I'll try just patching the crack temporarly, and see if it improves. If it does, I'll go get that replaced.

Isnt' there a way to bypass the O2 sensor to verify if it's working or not, or to test it? I thought I remember someone telling me that, a long time ago. but that might have been for something else.

Just took it out today, and tried going down the street. No power at all, I barely was able to get it over 25mph. Just stalls, and sputters.

thanks again for your help. Hopefully I can track this down, and get it fixed without having to take it in again.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 08:27 AM
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
You can get the vacuum diagrams from the autozone web site. click on repair guides and it will take you through some steps to get to repair guide for 82-92 fbodies.

This link should work. Use the drop down list and go to emmission controls to find the vacuum diagrams.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801eef19.jsp

Last edited by 8492bird; Jan 19, 2006 at 08:30 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
You said you changed the cap and rotor a yr and a half ago. I used to have to change mine like every 6 months (but there was probably something wrong with it) Give that a try its only a coulpe $$$ for a cap and rotor.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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Originally posted by 8492bird
You can get the vacuum diagrams from the autozone web site. click on repair guides and it will take you through some steps to get to repair guide for 82-92 fbodies.

This link should work. Use the drop down list and go to emmission controls to find the vacuum diagrams.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801eef19.jsp
Thanks, I never knew all that stuff was there!
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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Originally posted by 87CamaroMan
You said you changed the cap and rotor a yr and a half ago. I used to have to change mine like every 6 months (but there was probably something wrong with it) Give that a try its only a coulpe $$$ for a cap and rotor.
Ya I was thinking about just replacing it, and see what happens. Maybe I'll get lucky!!
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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Well replaced the cap and rotor today, and also sealed up the exhaust leak.

Doesn't seem to make any difference, I looked over the vacume lines, and didnt' see any disconnected, but going to try and follow each one and make sure they hooked up properly.

I don't hear the MC clicking, but the engine is noisy when running, so I might just not hear it. Just to make sure I'm looking at the right part, does anyone have a pic of where this is?

Anyone else have any other things to check, or troubleshooting tips?

Chris.
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 07:43 PM
  #14  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
bend feel and play with vac line while car is running. Espically on the left side, while underhood. The heat form exhaust bakes them and they will get dry rotted and leak right though the rubber as it becomes pouris. [ spray them all with a spray lube to stop that.]
Also some become so weak they collaspe and the engine vacuum sucks them shut while running, but look normal off.
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