i searched and only really found information on the V8's.. can some one enlighten me on what size the front sway bars are on the berly with the 2.8?

 

best way to tell, is get a cresent wrench, and adjust it to fit over the bar snug. Match it up to an open end wrench and there you go, you'll have your choice of mm's or inches.

 

way too small

 

oh and firebreed.. The Berli has no rear sway bar at all. If you have the time, pick one up. It makes it handle like a new car

 

Yea i know that the berly's dont have a rear, thats why i was trying to figure out what size the front is so that i can match it.. Do you all think that a 23mm rear sway is too much?

 

I wouldnt bother matching it. Grab a hollow one with a wonderbar off of an IROC. That makes a world of difference.

 

im getting the TDS wonderbar, and thinking of grabbing his 23mm (or maybe its 24mm) rear swaybar, would that be too big?

 

I have tds wonderbar vr1, 34hollow front, and 24mm rear.

Rear is a hair tight, I would say 23mm rear should work.

 

just go to a Jyard and buy a set off of a Iroc they will be matched and it will have a much bigger front and they almost never wearout.

you will also need either the rear swaybar brackets from the donor car or you will need to buy them from some where new.

Edit but he is wanting to use that rear with the stock berly front. that will be way to stiff. cause they show a 23mm as a match for a 34mm.

 

Negative. Iroc is a v8, you slap them on a v6 and its no longer balanced.

 

I am perty shure that it dont matter on that with any of the suspention components other than springs and shock rates. at least that is what everything i have read on this forum and else where says. and that would make you car out of balance cause they mostlikely take the 34mm & 23mm from a V8 car not a V6.

 

My front swaybar is off of a v8. Why would it make a difference? All I noticed was an incredible difference in handling.

 

I dont think it does. all the sway bar affects is body roll.

Edit: i just noticed that in your sig you say that the iroc sway bar is only 27mm? dang the berly one must be tiny cause there smaller than the one on my SC and mine is smaller than my bros Z28.

 

i'm buying everything new, so that i dont have to worry about replaceing the bushing's for at least a few years, besides with my luck from used parts.. the swaybars would bend in half.

This is what im looking at buying (all from TDS)

wonder bar (steering brace)
34mm Frontsway bar
front swaybar bushing kit
rear swaybar bushing kit
1le endlink bushing kit
23mm rear swaybar
rear swaybar bushing kit

anything else i need to put the rear swaybar on?

 

If your gonna do that you will need to get a matchin front sway bar cause if you stay at stock on the front and put that 23mm on the back it will be totaly out of whack.

Edit: you changed when i was typing this post
Yes http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pro...products_id=69

 

got them as well lol

my running total right now is $318.70 shipped SFC are gonna be next year

 

If it were me personaly i would get the SFC first and mabe like the wonderbar or somthing that dont cost much cause when you upgrade the suspention yor puting that much more stress on the frame that was not there before. plus the car already probably has over 150,000 miles of wear and tear on it making it much weaker than origionaly. Do you have the stress cracks at the backs of the windows? i have yet to find a thirdgen that was lacking those stress cracks. Atleast on hardtops. Thats the first upgrade going on my car is SFCs.

 

the car has ONLY 84k miles on it, bought it from the orginall owner, who seemed to not drive it very often (bought the car with 65k miles on it) other then some oil leaks, the car is as straight as an arrow only cracks on the car are in the dash pad

the Cali smog **** website also tracks the date/milage when the car is smoged (via vin) i can trace the car's smog records back to around 1992

 

cool but i would still get the frame upgrades first to prevent the stress cracks and such. you will probably see as much improvement in just stifening the frame as you would leaving it all floppy with the stiffer suspention. if ya dont stiffen the frame it will just flex more cause of the added stress of the stiffer suspention. But to each his own. what every decide to do i wish you the best of luck on the project.

 

dont have the cash atm to get sfc welded in :P

 

what I was refuring to as snagging v8 ones...

He would likely get a 36mm front hollow, and 24mm rear. That front one would over power the rear one.

 

i have 1le bars front/rear with energy suspension bushings/endlinkits on my rs and i havent had a problem with them at all

 

dam dbl post

 

My firebird is at 172,000 miles with no SFCS and no cracks in glass.

 

not in the glass. if it is a hard top at the rear of the window where the roof meets the rear pillar there is usually stress cracks. mabe your car has not been run that hard or somethin.

Dale: how would that be any more difference than between having one on the front and not the rear?

 

Agree, never made sense to me was why they did that.


As I've said before, build the car to your likings. What I think is right, may not be to someone else. Thus the reason I have a 24mm bar on the rear, I DO NOT want that back end to come around on me. I do wish I would have kept my stocks so I could play around.

 

I bought a 36mm front and 24mm rear stockers w/wonderbar from an Iroc off ebay for like 85-90 shipped. Got em on my 88 RS. Slapped some poly endlinks and frame bushings from Summit. Less body roll. Really needs stiffer springs and shocks to handle good though. Bars only helped body roll a little.

 

I would bother matching it. to small of a sway bar now the car will be more understeer prone. too large and it can be prone to oversteer

 

makes the car more userfriendly to the avg driver I guess. most cars are built to have some understeer in them as oversteer is harder to deal with for the avg driver.

maybe there could also be some difference in spring rates as well though? I don't know.

 

I meant, I wouldnt bother matching the stock equipment. He should upgrade.

 

I agree with whats said earlier, SUB FRAME CONNECTORS ARE A MUST!!! That was the first upgrade I did to mine a long time ago. My 89 RS used to twist really bad under hard acceleration. I have a set of Hotchkis SFC's and I would say it made a better difference in drivabilty than when I upgraded to larger sway bars.

 

the best thing i did for ym cars handling was the 1le bars/wonderbar along with iroc springs in the rear/stockers up front/with heavy duty struts and 3 way adj drag shocks set to firm/havent dont sfc's yet.But i will be after the turbo goes in.Im gonna do mine like we do all the drag car sfc 2x3 box tubing threw the floor boards.lots of work but stronger then anything u can buy off the shelf,and it leaves plenty of ground/ex system clearance