Ok, I got an 87 maro with the mighty 2.8. Its got 115,xxx miles on it. For the last two weeks, it acts like the battery is dead whenever i go to start it. So, I would just jump it with my dads van, thinking that the battery is crapping out. Well, heres the kicker, sometimes, Ill go to start it, it will either fire right up, or crank at about 3 rpm. but when It cranks at 3rpm, if i leave it alone for a few minutes and try again, it usually fire right up. . But i know that there is something up, cause my radio will reset itself everytime.

And now, its starting to smoke really bad when i start it and when i hit the gas hard. Also, whenever Im driving on the highway, there is this maple syrup smell that seems to be coming from my vents

Please help, i just need to this engine to last me a few more months until i swap it for a 400 sbc.

 

Need some more information. What color smoke (I'm guessing white), and is it constant? That sweet maple syrup smell is your coolant. Before we jump to blown head gaskets, check to see that your heater core isn't leaking. Double check the condition of your thermostat, their cheap enough, so just replace it with a new one while your at it. Make sure your battery terminals are clean, and tight. Double check the grounds, and make sure that their secure. Report back to us once finished, young man (always wanted to say that)...

 

another quick thing to check, is it smoke or steam? put your hand as close to the tailpipe as you can without burnintg yourself and leave it there for 10-20 seconds. is it wet? if so there is coolant leaking into your exhaust, intake or cumbustion chamber from somewhere. if it's steam you almost KNOW it's a headgasket, if it is not then we move onto smoke color:

black smoke is unburnt fuel, this means you are running rich or getting no spark.

grey/blue smoke is oil.

 

Well, how do i check the thermostat and the heater core? (i find this question ironic for a guy thats getting ready to purchase a 400 sbc to swap in this car) And it smokes white when I start it, and I only get the maple syrup smell when Im on the highway.

 

If the smoke is just temporary, then it's not a head gasket. Every car smokes when first started, as the factory ECM controls the air fuel ratio with preset figures (regardless of engine temperature). You'll find that when the engine gets warmer, and closed loop is enabled, the smoke will gradually disappear. It's when the engine is fully warmed up, and the smoke is still pouring out of the exhaust, when there's a problem...

The heater core is behind your dash-board on the passenger side. But, if the smell is only prevalent when on the highway, I doubt it's leaking. It's possible you have a small coolant leak "somewhere" under the hood, in which it's smell is being blown (when driving) through the vents....

Find your radiator, follow the top hose leading from it, to the engine. On the engine side, you'll see the hose being clamped to the thermostat housing (with the thermostat being inside of it). Before you unbolt/unfasten anything, be sure to pick up a set of gaskets, along with a new thermostat first and foremost (unless you have another car to get you to the auto parts store). A sticky thermostat, being as small as it is, can cause very big overheating problems (similar smell)...

You'll want to also inspect the area for any leaky coolant lines, whether being noticeable on the intake manifold, or on the ground. What I like to do is have the engine run for awhile, while watching it closely. The sweet syrup smell should be prevalent when the engine reaches normal operating temperature (in this case, when it exceeds normal operating temperature, because I'm thinking a sticky thermostat is definitely the culprit here). Hopefully you'll be able to see where the leak is, if not, just replace the thermostat and move on to the next problem....

Locate your battery. Make sure that the wire terminals (the terminals are what secure/fasten the cables, to the battery) are clean (no corrosion), and that there tightly secured to the battery. Try moving them with your hand. If their okay (not loose), now follow them in the opposite direction, leading towards the engine. One of them, the negative (black) one will be grounded to it (make sure it too is tightly secured), while the positive one (red) will lead to the starter motor (make sure it too is secured). There is also a fusible link found on the positive cable, give it the once over. There should be some additional engine ground wires as well behind the engine, and if your able to locate them, make sure that they too are tightly secured....

If everything checks out, but the battery's charge is still temperamental, you'll need to inspect (providing the charging system is definitely good) for a short somewhere. For this, you'll need to invest in a test lamp (don't worry, their cheap). If it honestly gets to this point (test lamp wise), let us know...

 

Will do it today and keep you guys posted.

 

if you smell coolant in the cockpit area, it is probably your heater core leaking. first thing to check is to pull up your passenger mat and see if it is wet or smells like antifreeze. mine gave me a headache and i found a puddle under the mat of green liquid.

if it's a heater core leak, just disconnect the heater core and put a ... 5/8-3/4 connector on it, or 1/4-3/8, whatever size the hoses are... until you get the time to replace the heater core.

now if it's the smell somewhere else... i dunno... i had my heater valve break because it's old... but i kept seeing antifreeze everywhere in the engine bay because i had a leak at the heater valve. who knows, inspect everything in the engine bay and wiggle it. if it leaks or breaks, replace it.

 

Well, I took the car for a spin today. Check Engine light came on. Parked it and put a piece of cardboard under it. And no leaks anywhere. Drove it again, no Check engine light, and you could only smell the Maple Syrup on the outside of the car. so.....WTF!?!?!

 

Did you install the new thermostat? Also, how did the battery terminal check go.... and is she still giving you problems when starting? Your going to need to check your trouble codes (the ole paper clip method), and see exactly what is triggering the ECM to set off the SES light.

 

Well, basically now its a 50/50 shot with the starting problem. I cant find anyplace where it is leaking the coolant from cause it only does it when i forget to check, and the check engine light has been MIA for the weekend, so Im not going to mess with anything cause I have made a few deals and trades and I should be getting a 305 within the next 2 or 3 weeks.

 

I found the leak!!! its one of the rusted out lines that look like they lead to the heater core. The coolant was dripping directly onto the exaust manifold.

 

We never really doubted ya...

Now, please elaborate in full detail about this 50/50 start up problem. I know your going to be swapping engines soon, but you should really look into this, it'd be a good learning experience for you. When you say 50/50, is it that the engine will crank and start half the time, while the other half it doesn't even try? Or, does it try, but it cranks really slow? Any ticking/strange noises? What exactly is it doing? What does your volt gauge read when idling.....?

 

Ok, sometimes, it wil crank for about three or less seconds and fire right up. The other times, it will crank about 2-3 times every 15 seconds or so. When it cranks like that, the voltage meter is in the red (sub nine). So now, whenever it doesnt start and needs to be jumped with another car, it fires right up as soon as you connect the jumper cables. After you jump it, the voltage meter will SLOWLY climb back up to 13. And also, whenever you do start it after being jumped, there is this really loud clicking noise coming from I think the alternator.

 

That's definitely an alternator that is on it's way out. One good way to confirm, is to start the engine, let it idle, then disconnect the battery (while the engine is running). You'll get a very bad reaction from the engine (with a good alternator, you won't get any reaction when disconnecting the battery while idling) and the volt gauge (which should always be reading a steady 14.5), will drop significantly. Once the alternator dies altogether, you'll be running solely on the battery, and that won't last for too long....

 

It was the battery. It wasnt keepin its charge.

 

Is the alternator still making the noise though, or did it stop once the battery was replaced? Either way, good news...

 

The clicking noise is usually not enough amperage at the starter solenoid itself. You can hear it click but the starter won't turn or might buzz at the solenoid or the starter.

I just discovered one of the little hoses that runs into my throttle body is leaking on me today. At least from what I can tell it's one of the hoses there (since there is a little puddle right above the pump next to the intake manifold. Anyone suggest draining for just that or just poping the two new hoses on real quick? Just changed out the coolant two months ago anyway when I did the heater core. T-stat is about 2 years old, pump is the same for age. I guess I should pick up a rad cap while I'm at it. Bleh. Sorry for the ramble

 

Very true, but I think he was getting the ticking noise after the engine was already started though. From his description that is;

 

the same exact lines rusted out on mine it was a dealer part and i live in canada thought it was gotta be alot getting shipped from illinois only cost like 30 bucks.