where do i start to make my maro handle better?
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 38
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From: McAdoo,Pa
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 2.8l v6
Transmission: t5
where do i start to make my maro handle better?
i want to make my maro handle very well around corners n bobbin n weavin.. so i was wondering where should i start in suspension mods???? Thanks
Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
great place to start is shocks and struts and springs
then move onto v8 or 1Le swaybars
add in a wonderbar and strut tower brace
and then u can do poly bushings
then move onto v8 or 1Le swaybars
add in a wonderbar and strut tower brace
and then u can do poly bushings
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 Auburn Posi
Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
Only suspension mod I have done is a wonderbar, and Holy crap! It makes a world of difference!
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
the first place you should start is subframe connectors. this keeps everything in line and keeps the car from trying to twist. even the v6 will twist the body enough to crack the paint on the car, i had to repair it when i painted mine. itll get rid of a lot of noises for you too.
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Car: 1966 El Camino Custom
Engine: 350
Transmission: 200R4
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Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
I would first check on the general condition of your stock suspension. If something needs replacing, now would be a good time to upgrade. I like everyone's suggestions but personally I would agree with drdave. I want to firm up the chassis flexiness first. Let me tell you why from experience...
When you tighten up your suspension first before firming up the chassis, at best,the car won't respond as well as you wish. At worst, the car will begin to literally tear apart. I had a 1985 IROC with T-tops. I went with GW (Global West) front A-arm delrin bushings, GW springs, Spohn lower control arms, panhard bar and torque arm. Bilstein shocks, Proform sway bar bushings and Toyo Proxie tires were also added. When I firmed up the suspension first, the chassis became the wink link and the roof and quarter panels began to flex and tear. Had I addressed the chassis first, this wouldn't have happened. My priority should have been a strut brace and subframe connectors. (My car already had a wonderbar.) Then the suspension mods added afterwards.
Having said that, be warned that you have a unit body chassis and the integrity of your door fitment is vital to keeping your chassis from flexing. You need to have good working door hinges before adding subframe connectors!! Here's a great article on how to get those doors fitted correctly.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_01.html
The principle is simple. You want you suspension to do the flexing because it has been engineered to control flex. Your chassis isn't.
When you tighten up your suspension first before firming up the chassis, at best,the car won't respond as well as you wish. At worst, the car will begin to literally tear apart. I had a 1985 IROC with T-tops. I went with GW (Global West) front A-arm delrin bushings, GW springs, Spohn lower control arms, panhard bar and torque arm. Bilstein shocks, Proform sway bar bushings and Toyo Proxie tires were also added. When I firmed up the suspension first, the chassis became the wink link and the roof and quarter panels began to flex and tear. Had I addressed the chassis first, this wouldn't have happened. My priority should have been a strut brace and subframe connectors. (My car already had a wonderbar.) Then the suspension mods added afterwards.
Having said that, be warned that you have a unit body chassis and the integrity of your door fitment is vital to keeping your chassis from flexing. You need to have good working door hinges before adding subframe connectors!! Here's a great article on how to get those doors fitted correctly.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_01.html
The principle is simple. You want you suspension to do the flexing because it has been engineered to control flex. Your chassis isn't.
Last edited by wesilva; Jun 4, 2007 at 10:15 AM.
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Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
in this order:
subframe connectors
shocks, struts, drop springs and a-arm bushings at the same time(since your a-arms will almost be off anyway, you can replace the bushings and the struts)
upgraded sway bars
wonderbar
panhard
wheels and tires
thats actually all i did to my TA.. minus the wonderbar.. handled like a dream.. and only on 245 wide tires.. you can go up to 275 on the fronts
subframe connectors
shocks, struts, drop springs and a-arm bushings at the same time(since your a-arms will almost be off anyway, you can replace the bushings and the struts)
upgraded sway bars
wonderbar
panhard
wheels and tires
thats actually all i did to my TA.. minus the wonderbar.. handled like a dream.. and only on 245 wide tires.. you can go up to 275 on the fronts
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 38
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From: McAdoo,Pa
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 2.8l v6
Transmission: t5
Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
Thanks for all the help order all my parts that i wanted.. i was also wonder i have wheels on it now but i like the stock i jus want them chrome would i have to send them out to be chromd or buy chrome one's.... Is there anyway i could make my stocks chrome w/o doin thoes 2 things????
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Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
I'll make this as easy of a explaination as possible......
...You can take the best handling road race cars in the world and TAKE OFF the good tires AND shocks- replace them with crappy average performance touring car tires and Monroe or KYB shocks and the cars would not handle very much beeter than the average Corvette driving around on the street.
You ain't going fast anywhere without GOOD grip and GOOD chassis control.
Buy the best tires and shocks you can afford- If you can not afford them, then don't waste your money on anything else.
...You can take the best handling road race cars in the world and TAKE OFF the good tires AND shocks- replace them with crappy average performance touring car tires and Monroe or KYB shocks and the cars would not handle very much beeter than the average Corvette driving around on the street.
You ain't going fast anywhere without GOOD grip and GOOD chassis control.
Buy the best tires and shocks you can afford- If you can not afford them, then don't waste your money on anything else.
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: where do i start to make my maro handle better?
Thanks for all the help order all my parts that i wanted.. i was also wonder i have wheels on it now but i like the stock i jus want them chrome would i have to send them out to be chromd or buy chrome one's.... Is there anyway i could make my stocks chrome w/o doin thoes 2 things????
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