I got oil in it very slowly without the valve covers on and do I mean slowly. I had to fill it through the dipstick tube.

I can get it to start everytime but only if I hold my foot on the throttle. It doesn't sound right so I dont' want to hold it for long. Could the valve covers being off have anything to do with it running smoothly? Is there anything I should look at to help my cause?

 

No valve covers wouldn't just cause your motor to die, you might have a big vaccum leak if the car dies right after startup.

 

What about the vacume line that comes from the back of the intake to the pcv valve or to the brake booster? All of the other lines are in place. I'll check them agian. I think it still could be the lifters not adjusted correctly and the fuel.
Can I adjust the lifters while someone holds the idle to keep it running? I wouldn't think that would hurt anything. What about injector cleaner? How should I spray that into the TB?

 

I got it to idle but if I give it gas it will stall. Before I could rev it up why can't I now? I will try it with the est hooked up and see what happens. I know this is very vague but any suggestions would be nice.

 

Do you even have the brake booster or PCV hooked up? The brake booster would cause a huge leak and cause the motor to die immediately.

 

^^ Agreed, also the PCV seeks vacuum.

 

I hooked up the brake booster line and not much difference. What do I need to do for the pcv? I still think the fuel is bad. I pumped it out, as much as I could, and it was very nasty at the bottom. I put about 2 1/2 gallons in but I think I need more good fuel to dilute what was left in the tank.

It seems like it's not running on all cyl. I really don't know.

 

NM, sorry, the PCV is hooked up BEFORE the TB in the 3rd gens. My bad. If the PCV goes to the manifold, it needs to be plugged.

I don't use the "cover off" method to adjust my valves. I have posted before on the correct procedure to use while the covers are off. I know the search is screwey right now, but use the Google function and search....

Just found it...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...ng-valves.html
Just make sure when you feel the SLIGHTEST resistance is when you stop.

NM, found it again...

 

thanks, I did it like you say and had two dead cyl. I used a compression gauage and got it to 145-150 and now I can get it to start. I was hoping I could adjust them with the covers off and then put it back together. IF I can keep it idleing on it's own I'll try my way.

 

my plugs seem to fowl right away. i took them out checked the compression and it was the same, cleaned the plugs, it started right up. It was idleing, rough but idleing. Went to adjust the lifters and it stalled. Tried to start it up and now it just trys like its almost going to but not quite.

I thought I would try jumping time on the cap and when I went foward or back it wouldn't even try. So I must have it right on. I do have a plug wire that won't fit tight like the others. I don't know if that would cause any problems.

Is there a better plug than the ac delco, without spending an arm and a leg? Could I put the gap at .050? I do believe the proper gap is .045. would that even help?

 

What kind of shape are your injectors in? I went through the same thing that you are going through now liek last month. I kept on fouling plugs and running rich, car ran like crap. I found out that is was an injector went bad. I think that it was running lean and made all of the other injectors run rich.

 

Did you change your fuel filter lately?

 

Yes, I replaced the filter yesterday. I am using some used injectors from 2.8 bird. Mine got submerged underwater for I don't know how long. They started rusting so I decided agianst using them.

I could have a bad or dirty injector. I guess I can take them and have them checked. They want 16 dollars an injector to clean them.

I read on another post that someone was using ford injectors in there camaro. Does anyone know of a place to buy them at a fair price?

 

I went to a junkyard and got 6 injectors for $70. PM pairtoe87, I think that he is the one who had the Ford injectors and may still have them for sale from his motor.

NM they are sold, they would make you run rich anyhow.

 

I have a set of 3.1 injectors I could probably let go for a fair price (sorry 2.8, I thought I might use them again and didn't mention to you), they have 88k miles on them and my car ran beautiful when I took them out. They have been sitting in my garage in a ZipLock for a few months now, and they are larger than the ones you have now (same ones 2.8RS has IIRC). I was using 24# Ford injectors for a while, but you would have to do some mods to get them to run in your car. Ford UNDERrates their injectors, and unless you need more fuel (boost, cam etc) it's not a good idea just to throw parts at your car.

 

ok, I had a mechanic come out that used to work on race cars and he helped me adjust the lifters and make sure everything was in time.
He said that he never worked on fuel injection before and has no clue on what would be keeping it from running. He said everything mechanical is correct.

How much for the 3.1 injectors and will they work in the 2.8? u can pm me with a price. I have a shop that will check them for 7.50 and rebuld them for 15.00. I guess that doesn't sound to bad.

 

If they will rebuild/check them all for that price, you are better off, individually $7.50 plus $15 sound high. I could probably sell them for $50 plus shipping (less than the JY at least).

 

Don't worry about it. I needed new injectors anyways for the 2.8. Back when the car was running like utter crap one of the injectors went bad after being pulled from the car. I needed new ones pretty quick anyways.

The 3.1 injectors wil work great on a 2.8, you will be a little rich especially at the lower RPMs but I gained some top end power and throttle response from using them. If a shop can rebuild them for cheap then you could do that.

 

should I try and replace this part? I am getting code 34. I really haven't gotten it to run for any extended time. But since I've been cranking on it this code has popped up. Should I replace it? I have an extra on lying around or will it make a difference.


thanks agian.

 

For everyone else Code 34- bad MAF

You may as well replace the MAF. It wouldn't hurt. First I would go and get some MAF cleaner at a parts store and give it a good cleaning.

 

also, I should mention that the MAF sensor was not in place when I was trying to start the car today. It was hooked up but off to the side. I had the car firing great but not enough to actually start. I'm thinking the injectors but I really don't know at this point. It is so close to running it's driving me

I should give you guys a little history lesson: I orginally replaced the head gaskets, timed it and drove it up and down the road. It was running weak and sounded crappy so I thought I would try and re time the car. I pulled the dizzy and put it back but couldn't get it to even hit. I got tired of trying so I tore it down to adjust the lifters and tried over and over to re stab the dizzy. A year has passed...... I got tired of it sitting so I maned up and gave it my best. I adjusted the lifters and got the dizzy in, buttoned it up and it started for a brief second, I tried and tried to get it to start but no luck. '

I tore it back down pulled the valve covers and put it back together. Before I tore it down, I checked the comp and found that I had two cyl that were 0 comp. I adjusted those lifters to get comp and I got an overall of 140-155. After that I tried to start it and it did, sound like crap but it ran. I couldn't keep it running and fouled the plugs. I did find out with all that cranking I ruined the oil. It was full of gas. I changed it, cleaned the plugs and tried it agian. This time it idled for about a min and then stalled. That's were the mechanic came in and I am at the point where I am now.

 

Problem is probably solved. Hook up the MAF, and idle away .

 

do you think the maf would cause it not to start?

 

There has been many posts here. I have a MAP car, and it runs like crap (stalling) when it is unhooked. This is how your engine reads the amount of air going into it, hence, how much fuel it needs.

 

I have an MAF and when mine went out the car ran like crap also. It can be that.

 

We'll it sitll won't start. I am really wondering if it's the injectors. I am not sure If want to spend the money to have them tested and just buy the ones offered here.

Can anyone tell me what the sensor is on the TB left side top. 2.8 TB. The lower one is a TPS. both of these were submerged underwater for about 2 weeks. I left my stuff in a bucket and forgot about it and it rained. I wonder if they can be tested?

 

If your TPS and IAC are bad then your motor will have trouble running but should be able to start. The IAC is the idle air control valve and controls the amount of air to the engine when the throttle is closed. Try starting the motor with the throttle open slightly, see if anything happens.

 

I've tried starting the motor with the throttle opened and just a few times I could get it to start but now I can't get it to start up for even a second. I'll clean the plugs agian and see.

I've got everything it needs to start spark, timing, and fuel. Can you set the timing (with a timing light) by cranking the motor over or does it need to be running? I am only guessing at this point.

 

I guess that you could set it by cranking the motor. It must be way off if it is not turning over.

 

IT's trying to start. It's firing just not enought to run.

 

I would get your injectors checked if everything else seems to be working.

 

I got some other injectors and a TB from pairtoe and I can get it to start and idle around 500rpm. I have to hold the throttle to keep it running though. It sounds like crap!!! It shakes like a wet dog. It sounds like it isn't running on all cyl. I thought the lifters were adjusted somewhat right. If anyone has any ideas let me know.

Remember, I've had it running at one time were I could drive it so I've done something wrong.

I've got to change the oil agian because it is thinned out from all the fuel before.

 

Have you checked your compression on your cyls to see if any of the valves are open.

 

That was the next thing I was going to do.

 

Do you think the ignition coil could be causing anything? I would think that it wouldn't even start if it was acting up. I've replaced it once cause it was bad.

 

It is now running at 1000rpms but it jumps on the tach. I had a plug not firing. I pulled a plug wire off while it was running and noticed that it didn't make a change but as I went to put it back the engine started to rev hire and idle better. After that it acts like it's fireing on 5 if not all. Still kinda rough idle but 10x better. I will check the others out and see.

I'll have to check the code its putting out and see what it is. I can turn the key and it will start right up. YEAH!.

Almost done.

 

I went out and tried to start it after it was sitting and it is acting like before, won't idle and shakes terrible. I guess that plug is fouled. Can I clean it or should I replace it?

 

When I got home I pulled the plugs cleaned them and tried to start it I couldn't get it to start back up. I pulled the plugs and only one had carbon build up on it and the others were wet. What could this mean?

I checked compression and I have 150+psi on all cylinders. I put each plug in a spark plug wire and checked to see if it was sparking and each one sparked but only one looked weak. Should I replace the plugs?

I don't understand before I could hit the ignition and it would start right up and now it won't. I did have a couple vacume lines that were off. I plugged them back and it still woundn't start. What gives?

 

It's running great. I havent' drove it yet but I will believe me. I put new autolite plugs in it and she fired up, I had to rev it up until it smooothed out and then she idles great.

I am getting a code 42,
42. Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR Fault at direct ignition system OR Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit

What does this mean?

 

forgot the est wasn't hooked up. Code went away. Starys up everytime and idels around 800rpms.