I got the jet fan swith. Only trouble is, I can't find it on my car to replace it! Is it the one with the green wire just behind the ac compressor? I'm thinking that's the coolant temp switch that goes to the guage in my dash. Is that wrong?

 

little help please? Anyone? I wouldn't be so worried, but my fan has never worked - so it's not just an upgrade, it's a repair too.

 

The switch is on the backside of the passenger head, only one wire going to it. What you can do that is just temporary is just to ground that wire to the firewall so the fan should just always kick on when the key is engaged.

 

Your '92 3.1l, '7730 ECM powered vehicle doesn't have a fan switch. The fan is controlled by the ECM. As a side note, unplugging the A/C high-pressure switch will cause the
ECM to turn on the fan.

RBob.

P.S. behind the A/C compressor, that sensor and wire is for the dash temperature gauge.

 

Ok, so my car runs super hot and comes close to over-heating but doesn't... and I have no fanswitch... but my fan doesn't come on unless the ac is on...so what is wrong with my car? Why doesn't the fan kick on?... relay?


there is a cluster of wires that is plugged into the fan at the bottom and it runs to little red sensor mounted on a silver pipe beside of the coal box. Is that not some osrt of fan switch?

If I do indeed have a fan switch it's on the back of the engine? Anyone know what the best way to reach that is?

 

The stock ECM fan on temperature is 226 degrees F. That is on the hot side, but not overheating. If you leave the car just sit and idle with the A/C off, the fan should come on when the coolant temperature reaches 226 F. You can verify the temperature with a scan tool.

As far as the 'little red sensor' on the silver pipe, which silver pipe? There are tranny coolant lines and A/C lines in that area. Maybe a previous owner added something. Have a picture to post?

Stock, there is no fan switch. It is ECM controlled.

RBob.

 

I may have a frayed wire or soemthing then. I don't know what temp the fan comes on, but it doesn't look like it's 226. The fan comes on literally a hair before the red. My car runs so hot that the hard plastic line that runs from the TB, over the pasenger side valve cover and then turns to rubber and runs to the coal box was melted in several places. If it was intended to run that hot stock, that line would never have come that close to the engine. Is there a fan relay or combinations relay which the ecm uses to control the fan? It's definatly comeing on too late, but it does come on...so there is something wrong here. Maybe it comes on ust before overheating as a safty measure through a diff relay? I don't know, somethings burned out for sure though.

 

alright, I can't figure it out, no frayed wires or anything, I spent hours checking it out today. I have no other choice but t drop it off at GM tomorrow...

 

The ecm operates the fan through a relay, but that's not your problem. If it were bad it wouldn't come on at all. Have you removed your ac?

 

no I havn't touched the ac yet, mostly b/c it works great and I don't want to screw it up. lol - I'm going to replace my compressor in the spring and have it switched over to 134a - I think I have this figured out though. There is a main cooling fan relay:

http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

And then there is an auxiliary cooling fan relay in case that one doesn't work. I asked the guy at autozone if the aux. one could maybe come on only when the car is about to overheat and he said it's possible. Here is the aux. one:

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP728711/...ductDetail.htm


They are cheap so I'll buy both and we'll see. What do you think rbob and bl85c?

 

I think that a '92 Camaro RS doesn't have an aux cooling fan relay. Since an RS will only have a single fan, whether it is a 6 cylinder or 8 cylinder. A 8 cyl RS will be TBI, to get TPI which does have two cooling fans you would have had to buy a 'letter' car (IROC, Z28, etc).

Also, the TBI 8 cyl fan isn't ECM controlled. So the device that they are selling as the aux fan motor relay may as well be the fan switch for that car. Without the picture, who knows what they are selling for that purpose.

Have a scan tool? Can you get your hands on one? Do this: after the car sits overnight note the ambient outdoor temperature. Plug the scan tool into your car, key-on, engine-off. Does the scan tool coolant value match the outside ambient temperature? It should.

Then start the car and let it idle, A/C off. Note the coolant value on the scan tool when the fan turns on. Is it 226F? If so then you are 98% there.

Now use an infrared temperature gauge on the engine water neck, where the thermostat is housed. What does it read? Close to 226F, maybe a tad lower since the fan is running?

If the engine is running too hot, and the fan isn't being turned on, it very well may be that the CTS is bad. That is what the ECM uses to know the engine coolant temperature.

RBob.

 

wow, ok - I'm going to need some time to get those tools together. I don't have anything like that. Coolant temp sensor is brand new. I replaced it in anticipation of putting in the fan swithc, which I am now out 50 bucks on. The coolant temp switch (for the guage), however, has not been replaced. Should I do one of those just to be sure?

 

Do you have a laptop and $80 to spare? Instead of a scanner you can get yourself started tuning your ecm by downloading tunerpro rt and getting moate's xtreme aldl link. You can bring up just about all of what the ecm sees on your laptop with it and you can get a willems chip burner for another $40. Luckily you have a '92 with a '730ecm so there's already plenty of info on it- I had to swap my '870 for a '165 so I could tune it without getting into code dissasembly. If your guage is registering the correct coolant temp there's no need to repalce the sensor.

 

I make 5,000 a week as an internet spammer -so I have several laptops all running automated programs. so where can I find this stuff to buy it? I'm really excited!


-Nate

 

Oh geez, I wouldnt admit that to people....

In any case,

www.moates.net
http://tunerpro.markmansur.com/

Too bad you dont have an earlier car with the 2.8. You could have made a 5 dollar aldl cable from radioshack.

 

A spammer? You ba***rd!
Just kidding...

You can get the willem programmer on ebay or at www.sivana.com. You might want to buy an eeprom if your ecm has a uv eprom so you don't have to get a uv eraser.

 

In the biz we call it "marketing" if that helps lol - I'm not ashamed, my family has a really good life for the great links!

 

now lets not be silly, we both know I don't know what any of that means lol

 

A uv eprom is an epron that's erased using ultraviolet (uv) light. An eeprom is an electrically erased eprom chip. The eprom is what holds the info your ecm uses to run your engine. There comes a point where you need to start researching this for yourself because of the depth of what's involved with tuning. The Prom Tuning Guide Book and FAQ: Common Questions and Answers in the diy prom board is where you need to start. Good luck, it's a good chunk to read through.

 

wow yeah that is lol - I'll probably have to read it in shifts. luckily I found a member who lives near enoguh me. He's going to help in the spring.

 

How do you guys get the sensor off the backside of the passenger head? I believe that it is the fan relay. I can't seem to get a wrench or socket on it.

 

Thats the Cooling Fan Switch. Once the coolant hits a certain temperature, it grounds out and tells the relay to turn on the fan. I need to replace that too, like you, i can't get to it. Any suggestions for us?

 

Right now my fan is grounded so that it is always on with the key. I know its a bad thing and was meant to be temporary but has been like that for longer than I wanted. Gas mileage sucks right now too. With it being so cold my motor only gets up to ~120 on the warmer days. I can't get a socket or wrench on it not to mention that it is in a hard place to get too.

 

Im doing the same exact thing...lol Except, I dont drive my car yet. You're gas mileage decreases because of the fan always running?

 

It never gets to close loop.During open loop the car is running richer which is bad for fuel economy!

 

Oh, so if the coolant is colder, the engine stays in open loop?

 

Pretty much until it reaches ~180°F-190°F(somewhere in between this range)in which it goes to close loop.

 

I'm pretty sure that it goes to closed loop. I believe that mileage is hurt since it stays pretty cool.

 

Guys, I have an idea. Instead of killing ourselves replacing the fan switch, lets add our own fan switch. We can use this kit, Hayden 3652, i think it turns the fan on at 180, off at 170. In the kit, you attach the probe to the radiator, right under where the hot coolant comes in. You can wire that to the current circuit. So instead of the fan always being on, it will only turn on when the probe reads 170 degrees. It gives it another way to get to ground. Since we cant get ground from the stock switch, we can get ground with this one. Good idea?

 

Do you have a link for this sensor? I already bought a cooler sensor at 180-195*

 

i had a problem where my fan never came on. i replaced the sensor and tested the wiring, everything seemed fine. so.... since i wanted one anyway, i wired in a toggle switch. i have to make sure i keep an eye on the temp, but i control when the fan comes on. its very nice when youre at the dragstrip and waiting 7 cars deep in line. i dont recommend it, ive caught myself a couple of times where the temp has reached a touch above when the fan will normally come on, but its so nice to have.

 

I couldnt find a product page, but most auto stores should have it. I found it in the TGO Willie's cooling guide.

Hayden makes a fan turn-on relay (part no. 3652). Available at Pep Boys for about $25.
Features:

• Thermal switch mounted in radiator.
• Fan turn-on at 185° and off at 170°.
• Can be wired to augment factory switch, not replace it.

 

That is why I never did that. A switch is a nice thing to have but I could never keep on top of the temp.

I may look into that other switch, so it mounts on the radiator, the metal core?

 

Didn't even notice your post. It's a biatch to get off, you need to remove the ignition coil and all the junk around it to give yourself some room, then just wrangle a wrench on there and get it out. If you install a lower temp fan switch you need to install a lower temp thermostat as well. The stock one opens at 190-200* I think.

 

If your fan is working otherwise the toggle switch will allow you to turn it on earlier, but the fan control will still work.

 

I'll try again this weekend. I already have a 180* thermostat
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I would do that but knowing me I would forget about it and overheat the car.

 

replaceing mine while i have the engine out

 

Yup, right into the metal fins. I am still looking for a store that sells it.

 

This looks good, its also adjustable.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...iew=skuhttp://

 

i have the same problem but someone asked if u messed with the a/c and the guy b4 me drained it for some odd reason could that be why my fan don't come on due to low a/c pressure and if that's the case could i just ground one of the wires.

 

The fan should still kick in without the AC working but the fan should kick in when the compressor is engaged.

 

I have searched high and low. I've replaced everything but the fan. I give up. I just let it almost overheat and then the fan comes on. Right at the first red line there. It doesn't seem to hurt anything so who cares. If I blow the engine I'll just go v8.