I was wondering if it would be worth it to buy these headers does anyone have them and are they easy to install. I currently have a flowmaster 80 series muffler that sounds slightly different than stock not as loud as i expected but i guess its because i dident get the catback yet *dumb IDEA* on my part but will these headers make it sound alittle better.

 

what kind of car... and some header's are a pain in the *** to get in, you may have to jack up the motor or that just may slip in but that all depends on the car

 

I have an 86 firebird 2.8

 

I use to have a website that had pictures and very good directions of the install since I was the first to get them. Once I found out people were stealing the pics off my site to sell headers on ebay, I deleted it all.

You do not have to jack the motor up, but they are interesting to get in.

 

well as long as i dont have to jack anything up i should be alright but those detailed pics an instructions would help me alot if you can dig them up.

 

hey, i've got a question about headers, while were on the subject. do headers increase underhood temperatures? i was told that they get red hot often, making a hot engine compartment thats hard to keep cool. just something i've heard.

 

well about the header heat that do get very hot, at my work we put a 454 in an 86 T/A with header and that thing going down the highway would boil the brake fluid and the floor got so hot you would almost think the carpet was on fire.

 

Depending on the headers, they will cause underhood temps to rise. The ones that are ceramic coated are the better ones.

Heres what I had typed up on the install:

First Impression:
Packaging good
Welds look good (few have splatter)
Has O2 sensor hole
EGR mount
Comes with bolts, gaskets and 2 clamps.
Paint thats on them looks like something else has layed on them.

Problems:
1. Need 6" O2 sensor extender, not provided.
2. I opted to use 2 more washers then provided on left side.
3. Stock paint must be burned off, and repainted with 1500+ paint or ceramic coat yourself.

Install:
Install only took 2 people 2.5 hours including goofing off, and cutting stock y-pipe off. Does clear the odd shapped 3.4 oil pan.

Right..
Need to dx battery, pull alt, pull egr. Does take some wiggling. The bottom mount touches frame rail tell you tighten it down, then it pulls away. Bottom middle bolt requires 1/4 ratchet, 3" extension, and 7/16 socket. No other way! Top 3 reg ratchet n deep well socket. Bottom front and rear, open end wrench.

Left..
Gotta loosen up dipstick tube, and unplug the vac hose to break booster. Advise pulling oil filter, and oil presser sensor for better safe then sorry. Had to push on fuel lines for a min to wiggle it past them, easier said then done. Top 3 bolts easy just like right site. Bottom front can be done with socket and ratched. Bottom middle n rear you have to be under car with shorty 7/16 wrench.

Y-pipe:
Very easy, will help to have assistant hold pipe while you feed bolts thru and twist mounting plates around.

Tool List:
7/16 shorty wrench
7/16 open end wrench
7/16 socket, 1/4 drive.
1/4 drive, 3" extension
1/4 drive ratchet
7/16 deep well, 3/8 drive.
3/8 drive, 3" extension.
3/8 drive ratchet
9/16 wrench
9/16 socket, 3/8 drive
10mm socket (for egr)
13mm wrench
13mm something (to break manifold bolts loose)
sawzall (cut stock y-pipe)
15mm 3/8 drive socket (unbolt y-pipe from back section)
7/8" wrench (o2 sensor)
1/2" wrench (clamp for y-pipe and cat)

Supply of your fav alcholic beverage, radio, and your trusty cussword book

 

after the whole installation did you find that it was worth it to put them in. Did you see any extra power? Did it sound cooler?

 

You will get more of a sound and power but if you want it to sound cool you must go with a V8, V6's really dont sound good.

Heres my 3.1L with headers, they sound the same as a 2.8L. Try to watch the whole thing or at least skip the middle and go to the end for the 100mph fly by

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWqjpkWhLMI

 

ya man you got a nice bird right there

 

any one seen headers on a big block in a 95 T/A?

 

not even sure if they fit theres not really enough room for a small block with headers into the 4th gen's

 

At idle, it sounded deeper and meaner, but up high it sounded a tad worse.

I gained some top end, but lost some low end just like any headers. I needed the low end since it was mostly an in town stop light to stop light car.

 

That's really more a matter of of oppinon. 99% of the population (including me) agrees with you though. But v6's can sound good too.

 

I put headers on my 92 with a 3.1 and noticed a big gain with the headers , and dynomax exhaust. I have alot of people ask me what size v8 i have. mind sounds pretty deep.

 

I would honestly sell this car an go with a v8 if gas was cheaper but in the mean time i think ill just work on my little v6 and who know mabe someday itll be just a powerfull as a stock v8 lol

 

You would be suprised they are almost as quick as a stock 305 auto V8

 

Yeah but those were only like 150 hp in the RS and Berlinettas. In the Z28/IROCs they were almost as powerful as the 350.

 

An iron duke can be made to outperform a stock rs 305 .

 

Thank you wow have a great project for me and dad

Quick question if I can power coat it black my dads buddy did my top plenum
Should I just leave it with ceramic bought or

Power coat it black ? It's dipped not cheap




Depending on the headers, they will cause underhood temps to rise. The ones that are ceramic coated are the better ones.

Heres what I had typed up on the install:

First Impression:
Packaging good
Welds look good (few have splatter)
Has O2 sensor hole
EGR mount
Comes with bolts, gaskets and 2 clamps.
Paint thats on them looks like something else has layed on them.

Problems:
1. Need 6" O2 sensor extender, not provided.
2. I opted to use 2 more washers then provided on left side.
3. Stock paint must be burned off, and repainted with 1500+ paint or ceramic coat yourself.

Install:
Install only took 2 people 2.5 hours including goofing off, and cutting stock y-pipe off. Does clear the odd shapped 3.4 oil pan.

Right..
Need to dx battery, pull alt, pull egr. Does take some wiggling. The bottom mount touches frame rail tell you tighten it down, then it pulls away. Bottom middle bolt requires 1/4 ratchet, 3" extension, and 7/16 socket. No other way! Top 3 reg ratchet n deep well socket. Bottom front and rear, open end wrench.

Left..
Gotta loosen up dipstick tube, and unplug the vac hose to break booster. Advise pulling oil filter, and oil presser sensor for better safe then sorry. Had to push on fuel lines for a min to wiggle it past them, easier said then done. Top 3 bolts easy just like right site. Bottom front can be done with socket and ratched. Bottom middle n rear you have to be under car with shorty 7/16 wrench.
Y-pipe:
Very easy, will help to have assistant hold pipe while you feed bolts thru and twist mounting plates around.

Tool List:
7/16 shorty wrench
7/16 open end wrench
7/16 socket, 1/4 drive.
1/4 drive, 3" extension
1/4 drive ratchet
7/16 deep well, 3/8 drive.
3/8 drive, 3" extension.
3/8 drive ratchet
9/16 wrench
9/16 socket, 3/8 drive
10mm socket (for egr)
13mm wrench
13mm something (to break manifold bolts loose)
sawzall (cut stock y-pipe)
15mm 3/8 drive socket (unbolt y-pipe from back section)
7/8" wrench (o2 sensor)
1/2" wrench (clamp for y-pipe and cat)

Supply of your fav alcholic beverage, radio, and your trusty cussword book