Alright, so I finally get to changing the fuel pressure regulator in my v6 2.8l MPFI...

Well I finally get the plenum out of the way and I get the old regulator off..but when I go to put the new one in I notice two things that are with the new regulator, but not the old one:

The new one came with 8 O-rings.
Two big, fairly thick ones(1/2" maybe)
2 smaller (3/8 or 5/16) fairly thick
two thinner ones.. 3/8 or 5/16
and a real small diameter, fat gauged one.

I could give you the gauges and measurements if you really need them but I'm assuming you don't.

Also, the new one has a slight tilt at the top of it..on the metal cap ontop of the diaphram spring.

Alright..here's my point..
The old one does not have o-rings and does not tilt

Can anyone help me with this?

As a side question..could someone tell me how to get the wires off of the fuel injectors so that I can test the ohms going to them?..I didn't want to just try and pull them off just incase..

 

Can you post pics of what you are talking about with the o-rings. With the injector wires you have to push that little metal clip in then pull it off the wire, you may have to wiggle it a little but they should come right off.

 

Well, my dad ended up driving home and he reassured me that I didn't need them.

The O-Rings came in a little plastic bag with the new fuel pressure regulator.
I'm in the middle of putting everything back together. Afterwards I'll post a couple pics and maybe include the o-rings.

On a side note..it was a PITA getting everything lined up when I was putting the screws back in.

Thanks for the info about the injectors. I get it now

 

There really aren't any other pics to show..the O-rings are just O-rings.
I had paper towels closing off the plenum/manifold(not sure which it's called) openings to make sure nothing could get in there when I was doing this.
Is there supposed to be that build up in there?

Sadly, this didn't fix my problem. It still stalls right when I put it in gear and I gotta give it gas right after I start it for a little while THEN it idles by itself.

Edit: I have new gaskets for the intake manifold..but my dad insisted that the ones on it were still good. What do you think?

 

There are no O-rings involved with the MPFI fuel rail other then on the injectors themselves. The regulator seals directly to the fuel rail. It's probably a generic/universal kit intended to service other cars that have various seals between the regulator and the rails.

 

the gaskets in the picture look good, especially because they didnt come off in two or more pieces. but as a general rule, you should ALWAYS replace gaskets and never reuse them, especially if you have the new one already. im going to guess the two smaller thick Orings were extra for the injectors, just in case one or two of yours were bad, and the small 3/8 or 5/16 Orings were for the fuel inlet and outlet lines into the fuel rail, because those do like to go bad. not sure about the others.
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also the carbon buildup is normal, but is not a good thing. i cleaned my upper plenum by hand with carb cleaner and a wire brush, and ran seafoam through the brake booster line and it seemed to help to at least loosen up alot of the deposits on the rest of the manifold.

 

Hi.
I finally got the replacement Fuel Pressure Regulator and I was wondering if it's possible to put it too tight by hand tightening.

I'm doing this tomorrow so a quick reply would be REALLY appreciated.

Thanks all

 

There's no reason to use a death grip on the FPR screws, they're so soft you'll just strip them out or snap them off.

 

Your o-rings go in the following places:
The tiny, fat one goes between the fittings on the cold start tube that connects to the fitting in the middle driver's side of the rail.
The bigger ones (depending on the diameter of the rubber, not the overall size) go in between the fuel block and the rail itself (the block being where the fuel lines connect to) Don't worry about these.
A couple may go for the fuel inlet and outlet lines. Don't worry about these, either, since you don't need to remove the lines from the rail or the rail from the engine to replace the FPR.
There should have been a REALLY big one that goes around the FPR itself.
There MAY be a couple spares for the injectors. Key word being MAY.
Might have missed a couple.
If you don't remove the rail from the engine, you don't need to remove the CSI pipe. SAVE THE O-RING! This is the ONLY way you can get the bugger, since it is a unique size! Tape it to the inside of your tool case (or box) so it doesn't get lost, because you may need it someday.