so today i got my roller rockers arms in, from comp cams 1.6 magnum with HE pushrods for $170 after shipping, i install them, put my car back together after 6hours of hell, thinking i got all the pushrods tightens nicely no way they will tick, well, they are ticking damn things. so now i need to take apart my car AGAIN and tighten them up, cuz the damn 60 degree motor you cant just easly take off the valve covers, ugh... all i have to say.. is the 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms were def. worth it, they made my v6 sound like a v8 it even has a little thud going to it and for the little while i was running it my motor shook my car hard after 1 single little hit of the gas......so right now im very mad because i have to redue it, due to the first few times i didnt get the car to run good enough due to a fuel leak, which took another 5 hours to fix and make good, so im excited for tmorrow :-D


2.8 1987 sprt coupe with stage 1 hypertech performance chip and 1.6 roller rockers arms with HE pushrods not fast but quick :-D

thank you for listening to my rant haha hope you enjoyed

Sucks that you had to redo it. Getting those valve covers off is a serious PITA! Hope you got the valve lash right this time, redoing it again would really suck! Did you have any problems with the rockers fitting/rubbing or any other problems? Let us know how she feels once you get it all sorted out.

where can i get "1.6 roller rockers arms with HE pushrods" ? can u provide me with a link please

I had no problems taking the VC's off w/o pulling the intake

Then you've got some magic... or a lot of small u-joints.

he's a witch lol not all the u joints in the world could get my VC off i try broke 3 U joints and bent 3 more -.- pain in the A$$

I used torx sockets and removed the studs, made it easier. I have the stamped steel 1.6 roller tips but since the car was down so long from me taking it apart, and I also had bad intake manifold vacuum leaks and a very worn, slapping timing chain it's hard for me to do a direct butt-dyno before and after. Plus I have had a bad ECM to boot. If nothing else, it sealed a bunch of oil and vacuum leaks!

I put them on my car a few weeks ago and didn't notice much of a difference as you may have but I have full exhaust and some intake work. They did extend the powerband a little higher and the car deffinatley sounded more aggressive. Its wasn't a V8 sound but its own cool sound. Worth the money.

hahaha so. even better news for today. i got the car taken apart again tightened everthing down made it run nice and nice...well little did i know. my days not over...i ran my car took it for test drives got it tuned in...well greatest part..i shut my car off. come back a maybe 15 minutes later..car wont start...so i charge the battery no big deal i thought. maybe its time for a new battery...well then i go out again for a 10 mile run to tyhe next town over...well i get there shut it off. come bcak and try to start it again...cars not running...so at this point im just like okay...ill just charge it again my friend has a charger...so i charged it got it back to a supermarket...park shut it off thinking nothing of it cuz i charged it for a good hour and a half...well..come back to the car...try starting it...clik click click...DAMMIT why is my battery dead.!?!?!?! get out of the car...had a friend help me pop start it...car ran GREAT...started dying down after maybe 2 minutes after start up....then got worse after i turned on my highbeams...got it almost back to my house with a shake a boom.....and the car died on the side of the road...SO NOW i guess i need to put a new ALTERNATOR dammit is there a flippin end to this i put 18 hours into this bull.


i could be stupid and maybe not had plugged the alternator back in?? i dont remember removing a prong type hook up? so...live and learn i guess.


do things right the first time?!?!?!!?
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^^^^^^LMFAO

here this is the 1.6 ratio you will get more feeling out of them then the 1.52 ratio i do believe. and they dont rub or anything with the valve covers. so idk why members are saying they do i didnt have a problem. make sure heres a lesson i learned turn the motor over by hand and tighten each valve at zero lash till the rocker arm stops moving back and forth. dont tighten them to much. or you will actually probably loss power due to the loss of compression..and possibly bend a valve...and idk if you have ever pulled that engine aprt but heres a little tip for the fuel rail that holds all the injectors what i did was just pulled up on that and they all came with the rail so...thats up to you...WARNING DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME?!?! it will save you time ALOT of it.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore..._Code=V6ROCKER

these work on my 2.8l ?

yes. just be careful and TAKE YOUR TIME also...i have a stge 1 chip in my car from hypertech..i think that is messing it up a little shutting it off and not staying running bull like that...so im going to see if the stage 2 is better. ANY ONE know if the stage 2 hypertech chip will work better????? with the hypertech thermostat of course. ????? im on the verge of pulling out that chip i bought and putting th old one in to see where i stand with that.

where would i get a chip for mine ?

That is the correct way to remove the fuel rail, with the injectors attached. Same with installation. My biggest problem reattaching my fuel rail after replacing my injectors was trying not to strip the fitting on the fuel line for the cold start injector. The threads in that aluminium fuel rail will strip pretty easy if you cross thread the fitting.

where is that cold start injector...cuz i think mine has $h!t the bucket all i know is i need to give it gas so it wont die in the initial stat up or it sounds like it will. ? yea. i didnt have to replace my injectors i didnt want ot get into that haha. and also i cracked the lower intake from tightening one bolt to much from the fuel rail cuz one of the injectors didnt seat up where it was suppose to be haha then i noticed...but yea.

well. i went with the stage 1 chip from hypertech....before i put the roller rockers in becuase my step dad is a pain in my @$$ and wouldnt shut the hell up about what i should put in my car. so to shut him up i put that in first. but now i think im going to switch over to a stage 2 with a 160 thermostat... so heres the site for the stage 1 chip


http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QH5811561.htmlran me about $105 due to i yelled at the people for not telling me that my order wasnt shipped, and they cancled my first one cuz there site said the item was in stock but it wasnt. sooo....all you do is take your computer out...its on the passengers side under the dash...its a big shinny box, disconnect it before unbolting it will make it ALOT easier..i thought.

heres the stage 2 as i call it. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QH5811562.html
it requires a powerstat thermostat...this thermostat will lower the temp that the engine will make the coolant flow threw meaning the coolant will cool down the engine at a lower temp theres a choice between a 160 thermostat and a 180 i do belive. so you need to order that and while your take the engine apart i suggest on changing out the thermostat. since i do belive it will be ALOT easier that way...also put at least 2 days to this project..just in case.

powerstat thermostat where would i get that?

180 degree

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...olet&md=Camaro


160 degree

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...olet&md=Camaro


you could also probably pick it up at ADVANCED AUTO PARTS....google makes a pretty good search engine to find all this stuff...just a note to self.

I dont think I used any swivels, or if I did it was just one. I had fiero covers, maybe that helped?

Forget the hypertech/accel chips, they're junk. Get the stuff to burn your own and learn.

Aftermarket chips can legally only change the tune so much to stay within emissions limits. Burn your own or find somebody locally to do it for you. And good luck finding anybody who can do a chip for the '302 ecm. As soon as I get up the ***** to do the '730 ecm swap I'm gonna start burnin.

Wish I had a clue on how to understand the charts and how to burn. Only things I know how to burn are cd's, dvds and Xbox 360 games lol

Just go to the DIY PROM forum here on TGO and read as much as possible. I started getting interested in chip burning a few years ago and started looking at what other people were doing on the DIY PROM board. I've barely scratched the surface of the info on that board but I know enough to begin creating my own custom chips. I got my burning hardware and software but have run into the wall of having the '302 ecm which no one has bothered to hack yet. I've got a '730 ready to be swapped in soon however and then the fun will begin!

'302? '730? what r these if u don't mind me asking? and wat chip should i get for mine ?

Part of the part number for the ECM in the car. The 730 is a widley used ecm for gm in the early 90's and has alot of aftermarket support.

You have the '302 ecm (electronic control module = computer). There is very little support for this ecm and its capabilities aren't as great as the later '730 model.

The '730 is a good ecm, but the '165 (tpi) ecm is also a possibility if you've seen my thread.

Didn't the TPIs eventually switch to the '730 when they went from MAF to SD?

Yes, but he already has a maf setup. It would be easier to switch to a '165.

K, 2 quick questions.

1- What exactly are the benefits of putting these RRA and HE Pushrod kit in?
2- I have a 2.8l in my 90 camaro so the computer is obviously programmed to run a 3.1l. If I was to get this kit would the computer be a problem?

The rockers give you a little more lift and RPM range. The computer won't be a problem, I'm running a cam on the stock tune and it was running fine (other nonrelated problems)

Will I need a larger valve cover if I use pushrods that are +.100 in longer than stock ones with the 1.6 rocker arms?

i would imagine to play it safe you would want to...why dont you just use the kit from comp cams? they come with HE pushrods. its only a 2.8 i mean you only want to squeeze a few more horses out of it you dont want to make it a beast lol you know what im saying?

Yeah, I was looking around and decided to just get the kit, it's $20 cheaper getting the kit instead of the rocker arms and separate pushrods that are a tenth of an inch longer.

excuse my ignorance, but whats better about these pushrods? Inderstand the rockers reduce friction and make the open the valves wider, but why would you need new pushrods?
The only reason I could think of for replacing them is if the old ones were in danger of breaking under the new rockers. But I know there's people with the 1.6 rockers who have original rods under them...
Especially when the rockers themselves are $11 per valve, $66 total.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...15&autoview=sk

There's 12 valves, and it's cheaper to buy the 12 set. Otherwise it's $132 if you buy 12 individuals, and $124 for the set, $138 if you buy the kit with pushrods, you're saving money and replacing the stock pushrods which could be bad, best to be on the safe side. That's how I see it anyways.