First off, I want to say that I have read alot of threads about intake and head swapping. I get alittle confused however Im not prepared to do a head swap. I have the turbo manifold designed for my 3.1l heads and swapping heads is not really in my favor if I have to redesign the whole turbo setup. I want to keep it all simple as possible without disturbing the heads other than a p&p job. Is there an aftermarket intake at all for the stock 3.1l heads? Or what intake will directly bolt onto these heads that will help perform in the upper rpm? I once say a pic of a twin intake, though I dont know if it was for the 3.1l or not.

 

there is a very good discussion on this topic right here at https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/5...rformance.html
there is a good argument going back and forth on what is good and what isn't.
or you can go here http://www.gmparts4u.com/?gclid=CKy1...FRIfDQod-AJhCw

 

excellegions, since u are turbo a port match job on the intake is all u really need, ive been spinning my motor to dam near 8,000 rpms on a ported stock intake with a stock tb.

 

You're limited to the stock manifold, the $600 trueleo piece of crap or the carb intake from edelbrock. So you know you can use manifolds designed for iron heads on fwd stuff with little modification.

 

intake sucks and the stock exhaust blows and more than just a literal sence. Trueleo is a con artist and pacesetter has monkeys welding for them so 99% of the crap you need has to be custom made and that gets pricey. The 60V6 can produce some nice hp for a v6 but honestly you should go 3500/3.4 hybrid and put the smack down on the v8 guys with a potent NA platform.

 

What have you done so far?? For all we know everything on your car could be bone stock.

 

just open up the air filter side of the intake and the exhaust, bone stock it should have plenty of more umph past 4500 if it can breath free and the engine just isn't tired.

 

I put the PowerMax Hydraulic Lifter Camshaft RPM 1800-5400; Adv. Dur. 272 Init./284 Exh.; Valve Lift .454 Int./.480 Exh

And put the turbo setup from BBS with a T3, other than that I played with the computer to remove egr, release rpm and mph restrictions, and set all the values on the main VE table to 100.

Everything else is stock. Im pushing 15 psi boost @ 5k, but then it just floats to 5500 then doesn't want to climp much more.

Im still a newbie to most terms, what is port matching again?

 

wait u just set all the ve bins to 100???
u still using stock valve springs??
whats the afr under boost

 

Well, all the values I set to 99.61 when the map reads 100, Still using stock valve springs, I just slid the old cam out and put the new came in. My ARF gauge goes crazy all the time so I got the cobalt digital one, but I havn't installed it yet. Im getting to it.

 

map at 100kpa is 0 vacum - 0 boost
i quess ur still trying to tune the stock code? it will not read boost.
the ecm goes into pe mode on the stock ecm at 99-100 kpa so those are the tables u need to be tunning

im willing to bet that
#1 u have this motor dead rich
#2 u may posibly be floating the valves above 5,500 rpms

first things first do not try to tune this on a narrowband o2 sensor
i fought my car for months using a narrowband once u hit either extreame (rich or lean) with a narrow band it will read the oposite

say ur dead lean the narrow band will read rich
say ur dead rich it will read lean

 

You're right, Im still fooling around with the $88, I have to get a 3 bar map and a wide band sensor b4 I can use $59.

I assumed that I had it to lean, since even though I have the VE table set like that, Im still running the stock injectors.

Please explain alittle what it means to float the valves.

Is port matching just making the runner on the intake the exact same size as the runner on the head? How much does that usually run?

Are you running 8k on the stock cam??

 

floating the valves mean that they are bouncing off the valve seat/not staying shut etc.

port matching is exactly that u port everything so it all matches up.generally u make them all the same as the gasket.

its free if u do it urself,u can do it with a air powered die grinder or a dremel if u have patience

plx wideband is 150 bucks and the lc1 is also down to 150 bucks now i would deff pick one of those up and switch the code.

u could run the code now just turn the boost way down to say 3 psi and u should be able to get it close on the narrow band.

me and rob did my car this way witht he megasquirt 2 years ago we just drove it around and tuned it lil by lil witht he narrow band till it could be driven around. we tuned the car upto 7psi with the narrow band,but once we threw a wideband ont he car we found out just how rich it really was

 

So when I head shop say they are going to port and polish, is that what they mean? If I send you my heads and intake manifold, could you port it for me for a price?

Can $59 work with the stock 1 bar MAP?

You asked about my valve springs, I never thought about changing them, would my stock springs with the new cam limit my max rpm?

 

thats a mild cam but it all depends on if the springs are worn out or not.

before u do anything get the car to run right
then go from there

i will no longer touch the 60* stuff the grand national guys have me way backed up with work with heads and intakes.

but if u send firstfirebird a pm he may be willing to do them for ya

but like i said i would get the car to run right first then worry about more mods. a 3 bar gm map sensor should only be like 30 bucks

 

$59 needs a 3bar as of now. I got one from ebay new in box for 50-something $$.

 

yeah i just checked diyauto tune
they get 64$'s for the sensor
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...sor-p-161.html

 

The next thing Im going into is timing retard, since Im still using $88, Im unable to retard under boost. I have the MSD 6BTM that retard the ignition for you, Im not going to have time to install till my vacation in Feb. I was hopping that I woult have to learn how to retard from the computer since I have this, and I assume that when I retard the ignition I will see more boost. I did learn however that advancing the ignition when the car is NA increases the HP to a certain RPM, hopfully retarding the timing doesn't slow the car down because the it will be under boost, guess it will all be trial and error. The car runs very strong and great under boost at the moment. Maybe with this MSD I will never have to go to $59 . . . . ??

 

just be prepared for diaster, bad timing under boost blows up engines quick, its real hard on parts.

 

Why are you still using $88?

What definition file are you using to even use it? I just read my stock $59 chip, and you would be happier using something else that's been played with a little more.

Until you can read more than 1bar, though, it's still a guessing game.

Until you get this straigtened out, be careful under boost, and probably wouldnt hurt to have a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator.