After some work to a 87 firebird (picked up for free pretty much) i got the car running after sitting nearly 10years. I want to turn this car into a DD so i can build up my trans am i also have. What should i do to the engine?

I already plan on making a custom air intake.
Put a free flowing exhaust on it. (as of now i don't know how or what way i'm going to do that, any idea's would be appreciated.)
Running it on synthetic high milage oil (has 12X,XXX)
Replacing the oil pressure sending unti, possibly the oil pump as well.

What else should i do to make it into a DD with decent gas milage and any power gains i could add to it? I don't know much about modding these 6er engines on the car. Don't want to throw useless money into it.

 

Headers, catback exhaust, probably good for 20 or so hp, and some mpg, will sound a lot better to boot.
Do a tuneup on the engine, chances are it wasn't maintained because no one friggin maintains cars these days, and esp if you got it that cheap it probably wasn't, so new spark plugs, wires too if necessary, check all the vac lines for a leak, check timing, new air filter, new fuel filter, change oil, transmission fluid, rear end fluid, coolant fluid, and seafoam the engine using the 3 entry point method. Read up on it first though. And last but not least, unless you're after serious power exhaust and intake is as far as you can go without tearing the engine apart. But if you have the time, the knowhow and money, they can make pretty good power. Oh and it probably needs new belts.

 

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How do i post pictures on this website? can't figure it out. FIrst starting with the leaks, i have one hose sucking air i can't figure out where it goes, or if it has more to it... i have a pic if i could share it.

2nd thing, i couldn't get the spark plugs out when i tried. I had the spark plug socket and still nothing, any ideas or tips?

Would headers be worth anything on a 2.8L?

As far as a cat-back i was thinking replacing the pipe, run it to a bullet muffler and out the side by the rear tire.

Last, is there any direct replacement i can buy from where the car's air intake starts, to the exhaust manifold?

 

Hit go advanced from the reply screen and it gives an option for manage attachments, click that.
Spark plugs, they're just difficult like that, I think the issue is getting the socket all the way in, try spraying the hole with PB blaster or comparable product.
Headers, honestly it all depends on your plans on goals, if you don't want an engine swap and want more power, then yes they're worth it.
As for the exhaust, I'm not sure that's legal depending on car model and year and exit location...check into it first, that being said it won't make more power than a catback I think.
The last question I really don't get what you're asking...you'll have to name the part or show a picture...I think you mean plenum/intake manifolds but that doesn't connect to the exhaust manifold, the cylinder heads do.

 

This is what's confusing me.


i'm going to have to try the PB blaster.

That last question was me typing fast. I meant to the intake manifold. Because the plastic air assembly was broken.

 

Idk offhand, a picture of the whole engine might help, but if I had to guess maybe evap canister, MAP, or FPR maybe. It was a long time ago when I tore my engine down...As for the air intake assembly I would have to see it(mine is different than yours would be), but aren't you just getting an aftermarket kit anyways?

 

The first picture was a close up of the back of the engine near the distributor.


You can see the plastic air piece that's missing/broke. I haven't found an after market replacement. Speaking of, good websites to check out for replacement/ after marker parts?

 

Also to add to my last post, how easy or not so easy is a oil pressure switch replacement and fuel filter replacement to do?

 

Fuel filters area pita, but not complicated to do at all, I've done 3, do yourself a huge favor though, go out and buy the little quick release tool for the plastic clips the filters have on them. Oil pressure switch, Idk as I haven't done that.

 

Plastic clip on a fuel filter? Naw. Don't know why yours would be that way, but mine's got threaded fittings on both ends. My Grand Prix had that POS plastic clip (hence why I never changed the filter, LOL... still have it sitting on my work bench ).

OP, that plastic vac line thing you showed is supposed to have a line and fitting on it running to the inlet part of the HVAC controls. It's a check valve. 2.8 cars with fuel injection didn't get the MAP... Only the TBI S10s.

First thing you should do is replace the vacuum hoses. Being that the car has been sitting for 10 years, they're probably crap. Same for the belt, radiator hoses, engine and trans mounts, suspension bushings, and the tires (dry rot).

Then, clean the crap out of that engine bay to look very carefully for rust. Don't forget to at least attempt to spray all of the crap that has probably collected under the A/C evaporator/blower case out of there, as that stuff just holds moisture in there and creates problems. Besides, a clean engine is a happy engine, and you can better spot oil leaks on a clean engine than one already covered in crap.

Do a full tune up. Replace EVERY filter and fluid from front to rear. Spark plugs, air filter, clean and check the MAF sensor between the air filter can and the box that is bolted to the top of the radiator support, replace the PCV valve, plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor, probably the ignition coil as well.

Check to make sure all of your brakes are functioning (including the parking brake) and adjusted properly. Check the oil pan on the engine and on the transmission for serious rust issues. Check all of the lights on the car. Check for any ECM trouble codes, and work through the issues that pop up.

:edit: For the right price, my complete stock air box assembly is available, minus the bellows running between the radiator box and the throttle body, and my new MAF sensor. Can you get a better pic of the missing part of the air box, something closer?

 

Idk, maybe it didn't I just remember it being a PITA just like all fuel filters are,lol. Also Maverick do you know where I can find the vacuum hose assemblies that already have the right connectors and sizes and crap, or is it a mix'n match components thing where I pretty much have to replicate what I have with seperate parts?? Also I'm axing the hybrid project, it's spring, and I don't have money to do everything it should have for the hybrid, so I'm just putting the engine back together and going to do boltons, the hybrid will wait until I can do it the right way. But for now, I'm going absolutely apeshit because I just want to drive my camaro that I've wanted since before I can drive...and owned and not been able to drive for over half a year =/

It will be a lot easier, cheaper and faster to get done...having the iron heads rebuilt, new dizzy cap and rotor, probably new coil, new head gaskets and manifold gaskets, new O-rings for the injectors, and any rubber or plastic hose, as they were all crap. I'm hoping to do it under $500 think that's realistic doing all the work myself?
Also need head bolts...and I sort of broke the tube on the cold start injector, not sure what to do about that, but one thing at a time, right now I need to get the heads done. New plugs and wires as well.

 

If you broke ANY of the nylon parts getting them out, especially the big one on the intake, you're going to have to go nuts putting the stuff back together. Other than that, just follow the sticker on the bottom of your hood. I have one for an 85 if you need a pic (replacement hood came from an 85). There are NO direct fit vacuum parts. I keep wondering if maybe it would be worthwhile to make some out of brake line? It's cheap enough, and easily bent. Hmm.

You can do the work for under $500 depending on the machine shop. Could you let me know how much to do the work when you find out? I'm just wondering what to expect when I have the 3100 heads rebuilt. Of course, that isn't going to count the .015 I plan on having shaved off of the block to get the quench in line .

If you need a CSI, I have a spare. Came with the replacement fuel rail. Come to find out, my CTS is reading 50* hotter than it should (skewing the cold start pulse width on the fuel injection and causing misfiring), but the CSI is helping immensely now that it works.

 

I don't need the injector, but if you sell me the tubed fitting that goes from it to the fuel rail for like $5 it would make my day, cause I need that piece and have no idea where to find it. I winded up cutting it when removing the injector....first time tearing an engine down, and haynes manual gets a little grey and is often not specific enough or just plain wrong about how to remove things....To get a set of 3x00 heads rebuilt is ~260+ probably around 70 for seals, for my iron heads they said like 240, and 70 for seals, im guessing seals would cost about the same for either.

 

Luckily, I have the valve stem seals. I just can't seem to find them at the moment. If I can't find them, I know I can get the seals for less than that anyways.

I'll see what I can do with the CSI. FYI, the thing only has one bolt, and it doesn't need to be removed when doing anything with the rail or the intake, just bend the line a bit.

Oh, and what do you need head bolts for? If you broke a couple, I could throw a couple out of the set I have in with the CSI, provided they are the long ones (set only came with 2 short ones... stinkin NAPA!). Other than that, just reuse them until you have the rest of the stuff together for the hybrid. Besides, your 2.8 head bolts aren't TTY... The torque rating is 90 ft lbs, unlike my 3.1, where the rating is 40 ft lbs plus 90* (TTY bolts).

 

never replaced vacuum hoses, i have no idea how or where to buy the new hose?

 

Cut out a small section of each hose (not the hard lines if you can avoid breaking them... do this when warm to avoid breaking brittle hard lines since you seem to still have yours) and take them to a parts store. Tell them you need about 6 feet of each (should be a small diameter and a large one, not counting booster hose). Get new hose. Go home. Cut old hoses off if necessary and put new ones on. If you need replacement booster hose, you'll need special hose, as heater hose is too soft and collapses. Not that you can get it in the right size anyways.

Basically, the rule is that if you touch one of the hoses and end up black, you need new ones. Especially if they feel grainy and not just covered in crud.

Be wary of the nipples on the black intake pipe at the throttle body and the lower intake and the grommets for the PCV pipe and valve as they may be loose and leak. Check the intake bellows as well by flexing it and looking for cracks or breaks.

 

Half my hoses just broke in my hands the moment I touched them, I went at the other half with a bigass knife, and a very few I was able to remove conventionally. And I just got done pricing out the stock engine rebuild to about 728, which is a pretty accurate figure, but almost half of that is the headwork which they gave me an estimate for 310. As for the CSI, I immediately figured that out after removing it and that I shot myself in the foot, btw I also learned that the tube does actually come off the injector, have to keep spinning it even though it feels like nothing is happening,lol. I need the following parts to finish the engine:
310- Cylinder heads reworked
82- spark plugs and wires
22- MSD cap and rotor
32- MSD ignition coil
31- cylinder head bolts(I'm just not willing to roll the dice, and they're not in the greatest shape)
3- PCV valve
20- exhaust manifold bolts
?- the CSI tube
10- thermostat
8- fuel injector O rings
100?-any and all hoses
90- new alternator, I took it apart for some reason or other and apparently didn't put it back together right as it no longer rotates easily, chances are it was due for replacement anyways. I might just take it somewhere and have it rebuilt though, but I had no idea how much that is compared to just getting a new one.

 

Of course after that I need to change all the fluids, first thing I'll change is oil before I even start it, then I'm going to seafoam the hell out if it, probably a can in the oil and a can in the brake booster, then I'm going to change the oil again to flush out all the crap the seafoam will break loose. Not even going to wait to change it either, first thing on my to due list once the engine runs. There was water in the oil, and Idk what my internals look like, but I'm sure its not pretty if the valvetrain, heads, and lifter valley were any indication. Good news is it shouldn't hamper the engine's ability to run, it cranked just fine when I got it, so with all the oil and seafoam to get the bad stuff out it should do ok and last till my hybrid is ready I hope, and I'm going to get a 3.4 block for it now and just go for broke with it, once I get started on it that is, in the meanwhile I'll do what mods I can to the 2.8 that will transfer over to the 3.4.

 

next question, which of these is the replacement i need? 87 firebird 2.8L
hopefully the links work.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=51-0

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=51-0

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=51-0

The two terminal or one terminal is what's really confusing me....

 

Wait, I think I know where that thing is on the engine now, is that on one of the cylinder heads? If so, mine has the kind with just the 1 clip. Not sure for yours though, may or may not be different than mine.

 

Well, which of the 2 oil pressure units doesn't work? If the fuel pump doesn't run for a bit after you shut off the engine due to the oil pressure switch, the 2-wire needs to go. If the gauge doesn't work, you need the 1-wire. Easy?

 

IDK about you, but I would tend to think that putting something in the engine oil that takes up space in the pan that has no lubricating ability is just BAD. Put in 3 quarts of oil plus fill the filter and put in a quart of ATF. ATF is designed to lubricate and clean at the same time (pull your trans pan and look if you don't believe me). Also, with coolant in the oil, you might have a cracked head . Just a warning.

Also, you forgot gaskets on your list. BTW, don't waste money on an MSD stock replacement coil, get a Blaster if you're going that route. I asked a question about this before and was told that the guy who designed our ignition systems recommends this coil and also to get it the bleep away from the exhaust manifold, where it gets cooked.

And you can rebuild the alt yourself for dirt cheap. Just make sure to follow the directions in your Haynes manual (or I can try to get some scans of my textbooks if you'd prefer). The rebuild kit for my CS alternator was $30 on eBay, yours will probably be cheaper.

 

YES! thank you lol. Never knew that.

 

BTW, they're down on the oil filter adaptor, not in the cylinder head (that's the coolant temp unit for the dash, be it a switch or a sender).

 

I don't think the heads are cracked, but if they are I'm sure I'll get a call, as for the coil, unless its less than $50 I'm not going to spend more on it, if the head/s are cracked I can always go back to hybrid build....
Does a better coil even make a difference?

 

The aftermarket coil won't make that much of a difference in an N/A application, IIRC, but it's kind of necessary for a hotter spark in a high compression/forced induction app where a hotter spark is required for a proper burn. Either way, I'd find a way to get it away from the exhaust heat in that bracket (I'm going to try to find some steel scrap and make one like I had on my old evaporator case for a while until the cheap aluminum broke).

Besides, with a cracked head, you could sell them for scrap along with the old intake and get some money towards the hybrid .