first off, im a new member. I bought my car 2 days ago from a friend who couldnt figure out why it was running so bad (horrible idle). Well a quick glance after I got the car home I found the #1 sparkplug wire melting to the exhaust manifold. So yesterday I replaced the wires and the car ran perfect. I didnt drive it, just let it idle.

fast forward about 3 hours...

I go to start the car and it fires right up. I let it idle for a few minutes. As soon as i put it in reverse, The car stumbles and dies. I goto start it and it wouldnt restart unless i had my foot on the gas pedal (about 50% applied). I got it to run and drove it (had to put it in neutral at stop signs). The car had no *****. If i gave it any more than maybe 30% throttle, it would miss and pop. Also wouldnt rev any higher unless i went to 100% throttle. drove it about a mile and parked it back at home. No check engine lights

ive done some research and i know that the firing order is dead on, I even removed the cap to make sure its starting on #1 (it was). Im going to replaced the spark plugs tonight. Also, the waterpump is leaking so Im going to go ahead and replace it along with the timing chain. I think im going to seafoam it too.

Anything else I should check? anyone else have this issue? what type of plugs do you recommend?

background/info about the car
The car is a 3.1L (either 91 or 92. I need to check the vin. Was told it was a 92 but the car has a 91 owners manual in the center console) with an auto trans. It has 220k on it (not sure if its the original motor).. Paid 200 dollars for the car as it sits.

My buddy replaced the fuel pump, but knowing his lack of knowledge, it could be a place of concern. Also, he kinda rigged it.. cut a hole in the floor and cut all the lines to get the unit out then bridge the gaps with rubber lines. Could this be an issue?

thanks!!!

 

hey bro, I have a 2.8 (basically same engine) if it's bogging on you like that. then I can almost promise you that its the cat, and if not that then it's your iac. but I'm leaning more towards the cat. cuz mine did that and wouldn't you know changed the cat, and instant 1 wheel wonders! =) if you have any other problems fill free to ask. I've been through hell and back with mines, do to the fact that it's all original parts from the dealer. I rebuilt the motor but use all the exterior parts until they failed. in which they did. so yeah ask away

 

$200 for a running 3rd gen? That's a steal, I've seen shells go for more...
Might be bad tps, o2 sensor, or IAC or MAF possiblym but as a side note, anytime you buy a car with high mileage, esp if you buy it cheap or can tell it wasn't maintained well, do a full tuneup on it, new plugs, new wires if needed, fuel filter change, air filter change, seafoam it(esp on one of our v6 F-bodies, they run rich....) oil change, chances are if you still have problems its a sensor, as a side note, it might be the cat as the guy above me suggests, I really wouldn't know because I've never had issues with a bad cat before, so I don't know the trouble signs of it.
But chances are you need a whole new exhaust anyways, so assuming I'm right and the exhaust is rusted out to all hell, then go ahead and replace it since you need to anyway. Your T-pipe and manifolds are probably ok, but often on a bad exhaust it will snap right where the pipes run into the cat converter, I've had it happen twice now, diff car each time.

 

you aint lying about the exhaust. Im the 4th owner of mine. my sis was the 3rd and blew it. but the exhaust fell off on her like 3 or 4 times. LoL.....

 

Yeah, this is why SS is a worthwhile investment if you plan to have the car a long time, I plan to have my 3rd gen for life...I really don't get the logic of spending 20 grand on a new car every decade when you can make what you have like new for half that....and even people that think I'm a fool for buying a rough shape old car like my camaro, don't consider the fact that, for the money people spend on a new car, I could make my Camaro, every bit as nice and reliable as a new car Difference is my Camaro will look badass and outdrive most cars on the road....an IROC-Z pulls .92gs on skidpad, a brand new mustang, challenger, and Camaro, pull .92gs, .90gs and .93gs respectively provided I'm remembering which # belongs to which car correctly. Also as a side note, v6 thirdgens handle as good as IROC-Zs due to the engines weighing less, sitting lower, and sitting farther back. At any rate, for 25 yr old cars to handle as good as brand new ones says something....and with suspension and weight reduction mods the sky is the limit....

 

true very true. you might also be right about the maf sensor. OP, go ahead and disconnect the maf before you start the car and try to change gears, if it bogs and dies then it's not the maf. then so move on to the iac ( and I recommend getting one from a salvage yard) do to the fact that a new has to be adjusted to the proper height or it won't work correctly. let us know what happens

 

thanks for the info guys!

I am replacing the waterpump and plugs today. I saw some info on replaceing the timing chain during my searching so I figured while i have the pump off ill go ahead and replace it.

also, does this car have a maf or a map? I didnt see a maf sensor so i think its map

 

the maf sits between the intake and throttle body.

 

Good point, I think the newer ones used a MAP, and as a side note, you should only be spending $39 on timing chain and gear set, comp cams makes a double roller one that summit sells, I was going to just get one at autozone so I didn't have to pay shipping they told me $120, I laughed and said pass. Was same part costing 3x what summit racing sells them for.

 

on the map sensor, where is it located? If i unplug it, should i look for the same thing as a maf sensor unpluged?

 

the map sensor is located on the firewall near the distributor, but that's only if you don't have a maf, I believe

 

yeah you have a map sensor not a maf sensor. do to the fact that your car was made after 89...so the map should be located on a bracket at the left side of the engine compartment or attached to the cowl on the right side of the engine compartment.
hope this helps you bro

 

i unplugged the mapsensor and it seemed to run a hair better. does that mean its bad?

 

what do you mean by a hair? does it still stall on you

 

ok so today i replaced the water pump, and did a complete tune up. The car runs much better.. not perfect, but its not missing like it was. It still will randomly cut off. The only time i can dupicate the issue is turing the steering wheel at full lock. Then the car will always die.

SO....

I did a vaccum test. I make a tester that goes on the intake itself and press. the system using compressed air (do it all the time on my 95mr2 turbo to find leaks) Anyways, I found a intake manifold leak towards be bottom so i think that will fix my problem.

thanks for all the advice!

 

sounds like the problem.....i can honestly say i've never had a manifold leak...it must be a prety big to stall your engine. well never the less you're welcome

 

im was having the same problem i changed
air filter
plug wires
plugs
distributer cap
rotor
oil pressure sending unit
vac lines
knock sensor

it doesnt stall anymore but it seems to not have any power like no get up and go.
so i gave up and brought it to a garage a freind of mine works at and he found a problem with a module in the distributer--WTF could that be?
could this be the cat? it looks like the metal around it is pretty banged up.
i need this car running good im getting married in 2 months and am planning to use it as the getaway car.

 

if you're getting no power, even at wop then no doubt about it. it's your cat unless the module on the dis is blow....then you basically I no spark time....it would make you car act like all the cylinders are miss firing