How do i replace this? i know i need a special tool because normal torx wont fit it, it has a little bumb in it so my torx wont fit. any help on what tool i need to replace this? and do i need to do anything before replacing this?

 

they are security torx bits you can get them at any parts store but get a good set as the cheap ones break SUPER easy. i bought the 10 dollar set from autozone and they twisted, luckily i got it off and back on first before they got totally un usable

 

great, any way to get around buying a set? i just bought a new pump, stainer, headlight, amp, subs, wireing, MAF, dizzy cap, button, and igniton module so im getting low on cash

 

i cant think of any other way, probably just easier to fork up the cash lol if you try to ghetto rig something you might just make it more expenisve to get out

 

When my security T10 broke, I said "screw it" and used a punch to knock the security pin down in each screw. Mostly because I needed the car to run so I could get to work the next day and didn't have time or the cash to mess with the whole deal.

I still think that replacing the FPR isn't going to help you, as the fuel pressure is at 45 PSI (where it's supposed to be when the engine isn't running). If the FPR was bad, the fuel pressure would either drop (leaking diaphragm) or be WAY above that (when my return side was clogged, the pressure was up around 55 PSI and the engine ran like absolute crap, also caused by a stuck regulator).

 

i bought the $15 duralast set, but what did you use to get it out? i cant get them out by hand and i stripped one....

 

i never checked the pressure, i just pushed the nipple down on the rail., im gonna try this and it this doesnt help im changing the injectors

 

changed the regulator, now i cant get pressure to the nipple? any help or did i mess something up, i know i have fuel up to the regulator because when i had it out i hit the key and i started getting fuel out of it or atleast in the bowl it sits in. any tips guys?

 

The screws on the cover are still loose... When I changed mine out a few months ago, I had the screws tight but fuel still leaked from under the plate.

 

that would explain me smelling gas while cranking, also what are the torx specs for the regulator?, and if you dont mind what are the torx specs for the intake manifold?

 

No torque spec given for the FPR as it's supposedly non-serviceable, but give the screws a small turn more until they seal. Those screws will take a lot more than you might think. The intake manifold (the bottom part) is at 20 ft lbs and the intake plenums and TB to plenum are all 15 ft lbs.

Oh, and now you know to prime the fuel system and get out and check all connections in the fuel system before you go and try to fire the engine. Which is a good thing to start doing, especially if you have to use a spark checker or something and you could possibly have a fuel leak ( :boom: ) .

 

i checked all the injector harnesses, and the plug on the FPR, what else should i check?, also for some reason i was thinking 27 in pounds on the FPR, i need to replace my security torx since i twisted it, thank you for the lifetime warrenty , im only seeing wetness on my driveside near the TB so i need to tighten those screws right?

 

Get the FPR tight first... Tighten where it's leaking and go from there. If the FPR is leaking, the fuel system won't hold pressure. Oh, and like I said, a small punch will fix those security Torx screws right up .

 

will do, i need to pm you though dan.

 

Where is the FPR located on the 86 sport coupe 2.8v6