Hello together,

i own a Pontiac Firebird 3,1L V6 1990. I have problems with the Emission. The Co range should have 0,3% and i have 4,7%. Today i bought a obd cable and downloaded the WinAldl. Now my question, what kind of EMC type does the car have (i think i have to set it in the configuration)?

Also, has somebody an idea what i could be, i already installed a new catalytic converter, new oxygen sensor, new temperature sensor. Ignition point 8 degress. No wrong air, nice idle, good kompression, no chip tuning.

Need realy help.

Thanks to all!!

 

winaldl doesnt work with your ecm, d/l tuner pro RT

 

High Co indicates too rich or possibly misfire. What's your fuel pressure? Is your ignition in good condition? Base timing should be set to 10*. You have a '730 ecm running mask $88.

 

I would have to say its probably EGR valve, but maybe a vacuum line, EVAP canister, or depending on what mods if any, those could also cause it, like headers, cam and such.

 

I am sorry, but what is the EVAP canister, where to find it and how to check.
Also how to check the EGR valve??
Vacuum lines are ok.
Why do you think it can be the cam, the compression on every cylinder is good (10-10,5 bar).

Thank you all!!

 

Can you give me some first steps how to use TunerPro, how to load the mask??

Thanks

 

EGR? Vac line? I don't think so. Maybe CCP if he's sucking raw fuel through it.

Anyway, go to moates.net and go to the upload/downloads section and look in the datalogging files for the $88 mask or a file related to your car. Download, open tunerpro, open the aquisition tab, open the data streams folder and open your datastream file. Then click the data view tabs at the top of the screen, connect the datalink to the aldl and click the aquire data tab. Have you checked your fuel pressure for me?

 

hey look a tunerpro mask

http://www.tunerpro.net/download/dat...1227730_8D.ads

 

Sorry for writing back so late, have been in Italy for vacation.

So the fuel pressure is check and ok. Today i can´t say more because my dad look for the car while i was in Italy so i have first to talk with him, what else is check.

What is the CCP??

I realy thank all and hope you will help me till the end of the problem.

How can i check the MAP Sensor??

I hope the Aldl cable will come soon and i also hope that i don´t damage my ECM.

Thanks Thanks Thanks

 

CCP is the charcoal canister that vents the gas tank. Look at the map signal and blm's via aldl when you get the cable.

 

What is the difference between a bin/ads/xdf-file?

I downloaded the xdf and opend it with tunerpro now i think i can see whats going on when i have the cable. But what to do with the .ads file.?

It´s not easy to use a new software complete in english!!

Thanks

 

XDF is the definition for the BIN, BIN is the calibration file that runs the ecm and the ADS is the definition file for the aldl.

 

Hey bl85c,

this is the new converter which i build in!
Do you think it will help to reduce to CO range, when i open the Air Pipe that wrong air comes in??

Is it correct, that the 3,1l does not have the airpump, there is no rail for it on my car ?

 

Some had a pump, some didn't. Don't take the plug off the converter if you don't have it. The high CO level is a result of poor combustion, you need to find out what's wrong with your motor once you get the aldl cable.

 

I didn´t remove it. I hope the cable comes soon. The order is two weeks ago. The problem sucks and give me sleepless nights!!

The car haunt out a lot of black carbon when i bought it, the distributer cap was full with oxidation. Also the plugs have been complete black.

The plugs look much better since i changed the cap and the temp.sensor. But they are still a little black.

When i stop the engine and wait a minute i smell gas when i stand beside of the back from the car, can be here the reason anywhere?

At idle running the co range is great, only at 3000 rpm it sucks.

Also at idle running sometimes you here that the engine runs different, most times it run regular and suddenly unrregular.

I thank you so much for helping me.

Do you know where i can buy cheap a dimmer switch. Since i bought the car the instrument lightning doesn´t work. There was a 30A fuse in the slot where normaly should be a 5A fuse. The result is a damaged dimmer switch.
I have current from the poty to the dimmer, but nothing out to the fuse. I am sure that the switch is damaged. In Germany i have to pay 90$ for the part.

 

This is the cable which i ordered at www.aldlcable.com, i hope it fits for my car.

 

Pop off the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator while it's running. Any fuel coming out? The diaphragm could have ruptured.

 

I will try! Do you think it can be the timing setting, normaly i should have 10 degress and i have 8 degress. I do not think that this can be the reason but maybe. Tomorrow i wil send you a photo vom the CCP, i mean there is something missing on the vac.lines!!

 

Is it normal that this line goes to nowhere?????

 

If that's for the ccp then no. What is it connected to?

 

yes it is from the CCP. I checked the lines and found the end under the fender!!
I have no idea where it should connected to.

Is there anywhere a explosion drawing online for the car??

 

Here's a diagram for your car.

 

That is the CCP vent line and is correct. The ends are open to air.

The purpose of the vent is to prevent fuel vapors from being pulled directly from the gas tank during purge operation.

RBob.

 

Thanks for the diagramm. I found a complete explosiondrawing from the 3.gen (all engines/models). But it is to big to post. If you need/want it i can send it via Email.

 

I poped off the vac line and there was no fuel coming out of the regulator. Is it normal that engine still runs normal when i took of the line.
Does the regulator only hold the fuel pressure when the car isn´t running and then the diaphragm open with the vaccum. Which part makes the fuel pressure while the engine is running only the fuel pump?? How does the fuel regulator regulats the pressue just about the spring inside??

 

There's a diaphragm with a spring on the other side and a vacuum port. The spring provides the base pressure and a change in vacuum on the backside of the diaphragm contributes to the total pressure developed. With high vacuum there is less pressure on the backside of the diaphragm and therefore less fuel pressure and vice versa. The pump provides the pressure, the regulator is a controlled bypass. Do you have a datalog for me to look at?

 

Hey,

i got the cable and made a check.
So the first error is that the Low Coolant/ Corrosivity Sensor is set to 5 Volts.
Which Sensor is that????
The second error is the Knock Count (9-44Knocks). What does this mean??
Sometimes the MAT Sensor is to high.
The next is the Target Air/Fuel Ratio (14-14,4)
Also the Block Learn Multiplier is often red. What is that?

I tried to attach the adl file which i recorded but it didn´t work. Is it possible to do that.

Is it possible that my fuel injectors are leak?? This morning when i started the engine i saw, short, smog coming out of the exhaust and it smelled extremly to gas.
Is it possible to check if they are leak, if yes how can i do that.
I know that it is possible to check the resistance but what does it say.



Thanks

Danny

 

Pics

 

More Pics

 

Your long term fuel trim is way low, g/sec estimate way high and you have a map error. Have you double checked that the map sensor is indeed functional? The signal should vary a bit, not remain constant. If it is then the sensor's bad. The low coolant/corrosivity sensor tells you if the coolant is too low. Double check the level in the radiator and overflow. I'd like a datalog, not just pictures. It's easiest to save it in a zip file and upload it.

 

Files are added.

 

Was this recorded using the $8D file pillsbury directed you to or the correct $88 definition? The attached file is for tunerpro v5 and is what you should be using.

 

I used the correct $88 file, downloaded from Winaldl!!
Why something wrong???

 

Ok, I just have to reload tunerpro v4. It wouldn't open with v5. Duh.

 

I am sorry, you must not do that if you do not want!!

The file you posted is an .adx file and it also do not work with Version 4.

Where are the differents between .ads and .adx

What do you think about the injectors i mean they are still the stock ones.

I read a thread where you told something about Ford injectors!!

Is it possible to get some of them for cheap??

Can i take out the Fuel Rail with the injectors and look if they are leak??

 

If you want to download v5 from the announcement page on the tunerpro site and re-record that would be fine. Tunerpro v5 is a much better program although it's still in the beta phase. Let's diagnose your problem before we go changing things. The injectors probably aren't an issue, it looks like the map so far.

 

Downloaded Version 5 today, tomorrow i make a new record and will post it as soon as possible!!

 

Fine, since today there are coming Airbubbles out of the cooling water tank when i stop the engine (blown Headgasket).
I think i have to open the engine in the wintertime, then i also can look for the injectors.

But i will still make a record and send it to you.

Are there tuning psitons/camshafts available for the car, if yes where to buy it??

 

Lots of cams form crower, comp, delta, crane, ect. For pistons there's alot of oem combinations that will work or can be made to work with little modification. And you can always have custom forgings made. I use this thread alot, but here's a link that will help you.

 

Hey,

here are the records hope it works!!!
How to be sure that the head gasket is blown. I realy have bubbles in the tank when i stop the engine. But the engine doesn´t go hot also the Waterpipes are soft and not hard. Can the bubbles come from the low coolant??

Thanks

Danny

 

Is it boiling or just a few bubbles? I'll bet it's a slug uphill and overheats. Do you always have to hold the pedal down like that to get it moving? Take out your spark plugs and tell me if any have tan buildup, sweet smell or are unusually clean compared to the others. As a final verification I need you to get a pressure tester and put the cooling system at 20psi with the spark plugs out for a couple hours. Peek in the plug holes and see if there's coolant in there. Also, the datalog was a little flaky. You need to check that your grounds are clean and getting good contact.

 

Joop, thats what i mean!! Is it 9/16", i will order a socket for 1/4" i didn´t found one for 3/8".

I made a cooling pressure test and looked in the cylinders with a cam. There was no cooling water in it, but on one piston was a wet area close to the middle of the piston. This could be a leaking Injector.
Also there was a broken corner at one piston. Not to much but you see that there is something damaged. I am not sure but i don´t think that it is worse because this cylinder was one of the best at the compression test.
There is one more thing that irritated me. When i made the cooling test there was water coming out of the transmission (see pic).

THX

Danny

 

The distributor bolt is 15mm, use a 3/8 ratchet wrench with an extension and a flex joint to make reaching the bolt easier. If you can wrangle your hands down there you just need a 15mm wrench to loosen it. How long did you let it sit pressurized before looking at it? Coolant coming out of that hole on the torq converter cover means a freezeplug is leaking. It should not leak unless the plug or block is corroded.

I think we need a translator lol.

 

It was not possible to test the system for more then 45min because it was late and the owner of the garage wanted to finish work.
The bubble problem was my fault, i filled in 1liter of water in the radiator, since that it stoped to bubble (of course). Just to stupid.
The engine is not realy corroded, but i think there was not enough frost protection in the water. Before i bought the car it was standing outside during the winter.
After what i have seen with the cam, i be more and more sure that i should open the engine.
However, i do not think that the CO problem comes from the burning room. It must be anywhere at the fuelsystem ore the ignition.

Can i take the fuel rail out, put on a vaccumpump on the regulator and turn on the ignition that the fuel pump is running to see if the injectors are leak. how big is the underpressure at the regulator when the car runs. It should be the value from the MAP, or?

How do you check the injectors??

You´re right we need a translator, what do you mean how difficult it is for me to translate/understand everything???
But i like it and it makes fun.

I have a good idea to erase the CO problem, you complete the engine from your pic and after that you send it Germany!! LOL

I will check the fuel pressure one more by myself to be sure (last time my dad did it and maybe he made a mistake with calculating from bar to psi).
I also will set the ignition time to the correct 10 degress.
If the problem is still there after that, i should know more about the injectors.

Do all injectors open at the same time or are they single controlled????

THX

 

We both have trouble understanding each other at times. Sometimes I have to reread what you write a couple times to understand what you mean. And not being able to put my hands on your motor makes it more difficult. But I don't think I'll be sending you my motor.

45 minutes would have been enough. The engine runs in batch fire, which means it alternates from bank to bank when firing injectors. You can listen to the injectors using a mechanic's stethiscope or a long screwdriver held against the ear. When you place it on the injector you will hear a distinct tapping noise. You don't need to remove the rail to find out if the injectors are leaking. Just hook up your fuel pressure guage, cycle the key from on to off (don't start the motor), record the fuel pressure and let it sit. The pressure should not drop more than 10psi in an hour. When you checked the compression did you do a leakdown test as well? It's also possible that oil is making it's way past worn piston rings (or valvestem seals) and into the combustion chamber. More than 30% leakage is unacceptable.